• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TXC 511 valve clearance spec questions

sailah

sailah

Husqvarna
A Class
Long story short I buried my TXC in some water this weekend and decided to change the oil and coolant to be sure. Oil and coolant were fine and I decided to check the valves since I had it on the lift. Lost one of the stupid "half balls" down the cam chain tunnel. Grrrrr. Anyways I got the ball and am in the process of putting it all back together.

Found it





So it's been awhile since I did a valve adjustment and I was surprised at the results I got. just as some background on what I did, I locked the crank at TDC using the detent and locking bolt on the bottom of the engine. used metric feelers between the cam and bucket/follower and did each valve twice just to be sure. Below are the measurements I got.



FRONT OF ENGINE (L R)



Exhaust .28mm .24mm
Shims 2.60mm 2.64mm


Intake .25mm .22mm
Half balls 5.05mm 5.07mm

The factory specs for the TXC are shown below



My question is that the exhaust is pretty close the right exhaust valve is a little tight. So in order to loosen the valve to the loose end 0.24mm-0.30mm = -0.06mm. So the 2.64mm shim ideally would be a 2.58mm shim. Of course they only offer them in the 0.05mm steps. But if I put in a 2.60mm shim that should get me 0.28mm clearance which would match the left and be as close as I can get with factory shims.

Can someone check my math and rationale?

Second more important question is the intake. They are way off apparently. I need to close that valve clearance 0.15mm on the left and 0.12mm on the right. Which should mean that there are 5.20mm & 5.19mm balls in each respectively. That seems like something is not right. It also looks like it's very close to the TC engine in specs and I'm wondering if it should be that way in which case I'm already in spec.

I've always thought that valves got tighter as they get older, and since the bike runs so well, I'm inclined to leave it and let it tighten up over time. I'd hate to set the valves too tight and have it not run well and have to take the bike apart again.

I called Halls to order parts and spoke to their service guy who said set it to 6 & 8. Which makes no sense. Before I took the engine down it ran perfectly, maybe a couple bumps to the starter to fix it. How would the valves get that far out of spec in the low hours I have put on from factory?

So anyone have any advice? Thanks
 
It would be easier if the inches matched the metric specs. I am a put it to specs guy on the valves. Checked
mine when I installed the zipty breather/oil tank. They were within the metric spec.
 
Yeah I hear ya. I'm a metric guy so I figured they weren't writing the manual in inches...

I spoke to another poster about his experiences and he said he had a similar clearance on his intake valves and set them close to the factory spec. He says bike runs great and has been for awhile since he did this. That's encouraging. SO I think I will get the half balls to set the intake to the looser end of the factory specs and check them after a few rides. I also purchased a 10mm shim pack so I will set the exhaust too.

It is tough when you get so much conflicting info and you don't have the HQ or factory to call
 
I haven't ordered them yet. I plan to buy the from Halls along with new gaskets. The exhaust shims are 10mm shims that you can get anywhere
 
Should give me plenty of time to get everything else cleaned up...:cheers: I powdercoated the swingarm a few months ago, was thinking about doing the frame, but that seems like a lot of work haha

 
It seems like they accidentally shimmed a few TE/TXC's to TC spec from the factory. The valves do move a bit when they break in and over time they will wear into the head, but for the intakes to move 0.15mm would probably take thousands of miles, if they ever moved that far. Plus, the exhaust valves would be more likely to move than the intakes I believe. I am the other poster mentioned above and once I corrected the factory mistake my intake shims have not moved in the 1500+ miles since. My bike had about 800 miles on it when I shimmed it, so was mostly broken in at that point.
 
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