2012 TE511 Radiator Cap Not Sealing?

[asweeba]

Hey guys, I have 2012 TE511 with only 400 miles on it... and the radiator cap decided to stop doing it's job today. So every now and then, I'll see a drop or two come out of the overflow hose. I rode it for an hour yesterday to see how bad the leak was and the coolent level went from full to just above the radiator cells after the ride. To me that's pretty bad.

Has anyone else had a problem like this? I took off the cap and examined it, the rubber seal didn't look too bad but then I noticed the seat for the rubber seal. It looked kind of rough. It had some white crispy stuff and some worn off rubber on it like it was sand paper wearing away at the seal.

How the heck did it get like that?? It's brand new****************************************

The spring on the cap seems to have plenty of pressure still left in it so I'm sort of pointing my finger to the seat.

I can upload a picture if you guys want of the condition of the seal.

I can always take it back to the dealer since I've only had it for three months, but they're a two hour drive away!

 

[Ex HVUK]

Phone your dealer and explain, it doesn't sound right so ask the dealer what they can do. They may need photos or the bike bringing in to examine.


Dave

 

[Tinken]

Sounds like a faulty pressure cap, but I had similar issues with mine.
I have a MY12 TE511 also and had major cooling issues with radiator blow-by. I changed my coolant to a waterless coolant like XF coolant. My engine runs a lot cooler now and I never had any problems again. The coolant is lifetime so it never has to be drained.

 

[asweeba]

Sounds like a faulty pressure cap, but I had similar issues with mine.
I have a MY12 TE511 also and had major cooling issues with radiator blow-by. I changed my coolant to a waterless coolant like XF coolant. My engine runs a lot cooler now and I never had any problems again. The coolant is lifetime so it never has to be drained.

Wow, that coolant seems pretty serious. I'll take it. And in case the problem really is with the rough surface, I think I'll try taking some valve grinding compound or something to smooth out the surface. I would take it to the dealer, but they are unbearably far away and I don't feel like going over there.

 

[Tinken]

Wow, that coolant seems pretty serious. I'll take it. And in case the problem really is with the rough surface, I think I'll try taking some valve grinding compound or something to smooth out the surface. I would take it to the dealer, but they are unbearably far away and I don't feel like going over there.

With the waterless coolant, you won't have to worry about pressure anymore because XF coolant does not boil until at 188.2 °C (370.8 °F). Therefore your system will not run more than a couple of pounds of pressure during operation. Cooling will typically be twenty degrees less in temperature and will promote longer hose and engine life.

I used to use EngineIce, but it still contains some water and it will corrode if not changed out. I still dribbled out even the EngineIce, so I switched to XF and have never leaked a drop. Engine ice cost me $25 for 1/2 gal, 26 for XF.

 

[Caiman]

Had dribbling issues with my SMR too, flushed out the stock coolant with a radiator flush product, put distilled water and Motul MoCool in. Haven't had any issues since, but I don't sit still or at the lights in traffic for too long.

That Evan Waterless/ZipTy stuff looks interesting, not available over here and we need to run water on track :\

EDIT: FYI If you have a 2011, don't order a new radiator cap, they kept the part number, but changed the damn cap in '12 and it doesn't work on '11 bikes as the neck the cap sits in is a 5mm wider on the '11s!

 

[Tinken]

That Evan Waterless/ZipTy stuff looks interesting, not available over here and we need to run water on track :\

Read an posting saying you could get propylene glycol antifreeze here: http://enginecare.com.au/

http://www.actrol.com.au/Products/Refrigerant-Oils--Gases/Glycol/Actrol-Food-Grade-Propylene-Glycol/

http://www.lightsounds.com.au/antari_5l_fog_fluid_5487_prd1.htm

Why do you have to run water on the track? Here, you can't run ethylene glycol on the tracks, but propylene is approved.

 

[Caiman]

Racing rules state "Water only" as glycol based coolants are slippery little buggers on asphalt.

24.3.1.7 The only liquid coolant permitted is water.

The waterless coolant would be good for commuting/traffic, bikes run hot sitting at lights when it's 35C!

 

[asweeba]

Had dribbling issues with my SMR too, flushed out the stock coolant with a radiator flush product, put distilled water and Motul MoCool in. Haven't had any issues since, but I don't sit still or at the lights in traffic for too long.

That Evan Waterless/ZipTy stuff looks interesting, not available over here and we need to run water on track :\

EDIT: FYI If you have a 2011, don't order a new radiator cap, they kept the part number, but changed the damn cap in '12 and it doesn't work on '11 bikes as the neck the cap sits in is a 5mm wider on the '11s!

Just by looking at the condition of your cap, I think I may have found out why mine is leaking! The cap in your picture looks perfectly smooth! Mine is all scuffed up and un-even! I thought that was normal, but now by looking at yours, I think I'll get a new cap.

And I have a '12 511, so no worries.

 

[Bionic]

My cap started leaking bad at around 1000 miles on the bike (2012 TE449). I flushed the system with distilled water and used Engine Ice and it still dumped fluid out of the overflow. I checked the cap and it was ridged and lumpy on the rubber just like you are saying yours is. It sounds like the 2012 models may be having a radiator cap issue from the factory. I replaced mine with a new cap (same cap as my buddy's KTM and Husaberg in case that helps) and no more issues. It's a cheap fix.

 

[TE in RC]

Sounds like a faulty pressure cap, but I had similar issues with mine.
I have a MY12 TE511 also and had major cooling issues with radiator blow-by. I changed my coolant to a waterless coolant like XF coolant. My engine runs a lot cooler now and I never had any problems again. The coolant is lifetime so it never has to be drained.

Since we started talking coolants...I was just looking at ZipTy's website and was checking it out. If it works that well I will be stopping by and will pick up a 1/2 gallon for $26.95. Not a bad price if you never need to flush it. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[asweeba]

Since we started talking coolants...I was just looking at ZipTy's website and was checking it out. If it works that well I will be stopping by and will pick up a 1/2 gallon for $26.95. Not a bad price if you never need to flush it. Thanks for the recommendation.
View attachment 20865

I'll be doing the same sometime soon. But in case your interested, there is another coolant out there that is waterless and seems almost like the same thing. It's called evens coolant. They are both waterless, both operate at no pressure, and both have the same boiling point. You might want to do some compare and contrast before you spend that money. Maybe they are the same thing with different labels, who knows!

Link: http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/

 

[Tinken]

Ty's XF coolant is Evans btw, says right on the bottle. ZipTy racing is the west coast distributor. I think Ty's is a few bucks cheaper.

 

[asweeba]

My cap started leaking bad at around 1000 miles on the bike (2012 TE449). I flushed the system with distilled water and used Engine Ice and it still dumped fluid out of the overflow. I checked the cap and it was ridged and lumpy on the rubber just like you are saying yours is. It sounds like the 2012 models may be having a radiator cap issue from the factory. I replaced mine with a new cap (same cap as my buddy's KTM and Husaberg in case that helps) and no more issues. It's a cheap fix.

I already ordered another stock cap, so we'll see what happens tommorow when i get it. But thanks for the info, it's good to know that these things can be inter-changeable.

 

[motomanic]

I have an 2011 511 and have experienced the same problem, dumping the coolant thru the overflow pipe, I'll check the cap, is this the same as other caps or do i have to order a 2011 cap for TE449/511?

 

[James Patton]

I have not had cap issues, but did buy the XF coolant. I believe the bike runs cooler, and the fan comes on less
frequently. A real plus for traffic or rough, technical single track. Have not lost any fluid since changing over.

 

[Rearwheelin]

I have an 2011 511 and have experienced the same problem, dumping the coolant thru the overflow pipe, I'll check the cap, is this the same as other caps or do i have to order a 2011 cap for TE449/511?

What's happened is at some point your bike got hot enough to disfigure your inner seal on your cap, now you have a non-pressure system. Caps were back ordered a couple months back, go figure. The steam of the water based coolant destroys them on the trail when you should be pulled over letting your bike cool off . I run a rad overflow can and XF and a second fan. Send me the toughest trail in 100 degree weather and the bike won't get over 210 F .... XF will expand some , with a coolant res. It keeps the rads full up to the very top, not just slightly above the fins.

 

[Rearwheelin]

I am still using my leaking cap too, it just goes back into the radiators.

 

[asweeba]

Im sorry that I never posted the results, but I actually replaced the stock cap with a ktm cap from the exc 500. The entire problem was fixed right on the spot and I had no problems since.

 

[Caiman]

What's the pressure rating on the KTM cap?