• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE310 stripped drain plug

J

James ODay

Husqvarna
A Class
The hex is stripped (rounded) on the oil drain plug on my 2012 TE310. Came to me this way from previous owner. I did a search on this and found somebody got the plug out with vice grips.

Just wondering if this is the best way to do this, or is there maybe a different/better way? Doesn't seem like there would be enough room to get vice grips in there. Kind of afraid if I bugger it up more won't be able to get it out at all. Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
Happened to me the first time I changed the oil too. I was stupid and followed the crazy instructions in the manual instead of using the 35 plus years of wrenching experience I have. Remove the drain hose and use a box end 12mm wrench to remove the plug. I had to tap it on the buggered up hex to get a bite but I got it off. I ordered a replacement plug from Halls which was cheap and at my door in 2 days.
 
Thanks for the help, I'll try that. Doesn't seem like there is enough room to tap a wrench on there, but I'll try. The guy that used the vise grips said he did it with the bike laying down on it's side. That would probably be better than trying to do it on a stand, or side stand.

I ordered the drain back kit from Zip Tie. Kind of pricey but figured it's a better solution. We'll see how it works out, hopefully I'll be able to get that plug off there.
 
The kit is a better solution and it's safer. If you rip that oil line off while hopping a log, say bye bye to your engine.
 
If you pull the hose off won't it mess up the flared end , I believe I saw a post where someone kept pulling the hose off and it began leaking oil at the hose connection .
 
richard kersten said:
If you pull the hose off won't it mess up the flared end , I believe I saw a post where someone kept pulling the hose off and it began leaking oil at the hose connection .
Click to expand...

He is installing a drain back kit. I changed my oil 6 times and removed the hose with no noticeable flaring. Since then I installed the drain back kit and it's a worry of the past now.
 
James - You may be working with the wrong dealer!

I rounded the fitting at the first oil change - no way in hell an open end wrench is the way to get it off.....Did they red locktite that bad boy in there for god's sake....or was it welded on?

I took the 310 back to Bill's Motorcycle Plus in Salem, OR and asked Bill to get that glued in "&%4@#" fitting off and change it out with a new one - Bill's shop fixed it just like they have fixed every problem we have had with our 2012 TE310 and TE511. It's why I bought Husky - Bill's Shop and their reputation for honestly taking care of people.

I've been scared of the radiator clamp oil fitting - but have Zip-Ty's breather relocation kit in the mail. I think I will feel much better about that oil return connection with an old fashioned oil plug below the crankcase oil level and the return hose connecting back in "above" the crankcase oil level - if something bad happens, no cooked 310 motor.
 
Just an update. As soon as I got the goofy drain back hose off, turns out I could get a 12mm box end wrench on it and get it off. Only one corner was rounded, the one I could see and the one you would round if you try and get it off with an open end wrench, duh.

Glad I ordered the drain back kit. Now that I messed with it I can see this is a better solution.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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