• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE310 - How to secure battery?

River-Runner

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've just put an earthx battery in our TE310, there is not that much difference in size between it and the stock battery. There is a plastic base the battery sits in and the base in turn has tabs that fit into the plastic to the rear of the bike from the air filter. There is nothing to hold the battery from shifting or moving around - this just doesn't seem right. How have people secured their battery in the 310 so it does not jiggle/move around? Got any pictures?

I replaced the battery because the battery on my TE511 was failing and we bought both bikes together - I also fit the 511 with a new earthx lithium. Really spins the motor much faster and I think the fuel injection likes the higher power as well - it seems to "catch" quicker with only a couple turns of the motor. Go figure?
 
I installed mine last august/September. I wasn't wanting to grind out the tray to see if that might work. Since there is a "ledge" on the fender and weep holes for drainage I looped 2 doubled up wire ties that would hold the battery vertically. I then looped a couple more around the metal tabs on the subframe to hold the battery back (you could make some holes in the plastic there though metal tabs made it easier). I padded it using a couple of the foam pads that came with the battery on the bottom just to give it some grip to the ledge on the fender and pad it slightly. I also just placed a thin old wetsuit scrap behind it. Been solid since. No worries. When I need to remove it I waste one zip tie (don't need the little red one). Slide the two vertical ties to the side, snip one of the two ties holding it back and pull the battery. I did not want to mount it like stock and have the seat rest on it. Moves the contacts too close to the cross member and instead of a flat top is stepped so has to be placed just right.

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I noticed the same thing on the 310..but there's a rubber grommet on the bottom of the factory seat that wedges the battery down and holds it into place.. you'd think there would be a strap or band though ?
 
I noticed the same thing on the 310..but there's a rubber grommet on the bottom of the factory seat that wedges the battery down and holds it into place.. you'd think there would be a strap or band though ?

Mine has a rubber strap. That plus the rubber on the seat held the stock battery in place. I would have zip ty'd it but I remove it to change the air filter.
Now I have a smaller lithium battery (motocell), I use the strap and place a bit of high density rubber foam above the battery and the seat squashes it down. Makes it easier to change filter but perhaps not as secure as Johnrg's zip ty job.
 
Mine came with a bunch of double sided sticky pads which snug it up pretty good. No issues except the terminals have vibrated loose.
 
i do like the above on all my batteries, buy a pack of long zip ties drill (dremel route) drain holes into the webbing on the inner fender, what the battery box sits on, and feed the zip ties through and around the battery.
heres my 2011 TE310 set up with the ballistic (dead and gone), (went to a earthx with way more success), no need for zip tie overkill (but overkill doesnt hurt), this bike was ridden hard and raced in nat events and the battery never came unsecured with the 2 zip ties as shown.

 
i do like the above on all my batteries, buy a pack of long zip ties drill (dremel route) drain holes into the webbing on the inner fender, what the battery box sits on, and feed the zip ties through and around the battery.
heres my 2011 TE310 set up with the ballistic (dead and gone), (went to a earthx with way more success), no need for zip tie overkill (but overkill doesnt hurt), this bike was ridden hard and raced in nat events and the battery never came unsecured with the 2 zip ties as shown.

If you ment to post a photo of your bikes battery set up I'd really appreciate seeing what you did with the lithium earthx - we are using that battery as well. I didn't get a photo or attached file.

Thx
 
earthx exactly the same as with this ballistic 2 zip tie straps as written above, imagine if you will that the ballistic battery is an earthx. ps i see the photo, perhaps you dont?
 
Details... Note that the '13 and 14 just have the battery in a tray and no straps or band. The Earth X does not fit the tray (it's bigger) so you decide whether to grind it away to make the semi oval shape fit the tray. The tray would help keep it from moving forward and so just the vertical ties makes sense if you do modify it...

WP_000805.jpg

But I like to leave my stock parts alone and save them and not easy or cheap to get another tray to chop.

WP_000806.jpg

The weep holes you see do work great to hold the battery back and down without the tray or with. I simply did what was most secure w/o the tray, adding the cross tie and pads and keeping it as low as possible away from the seat and cross member.
 
The 310R models have a rubber strap around the battery. My 2012 didn't come with one so I use a mini bungee and it works good and is easy to remove when servicing the air filter.
 
Mine never came with a strap but looking at the parts diagram it is there. I guess Husqvarna USA owes one to me. Calling big name attorney now :rolleyes:

zband.JPG
 
you guys over think this stuff, yes take your dremal and do a little plastic fab to use the oem battery tray and pop a couple more hole for drains and for zipties. these batteries are so much less mass than a lead acid battery anyway so the load and unload farces are nmuch lower. what did we lose? about 2.5-3 lbs with this earth x.
PS you simply cut the zips, no issue home depot has very pro quality packages of zip ties long ones. use the good ones not the cheesey chinese knock offs

you want another super good way lose weight get a light weight muffler, oem is almost 8lbs waaay back from the cg...thats a mod you will really feel especially under g out type conditions. the rear end is alot light feeling.
 
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