• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE310 drain plug/oil return line

P

Phil Lamb

Husqvarna
A Class
Ladies, listen up. Installed the TE250 oil drain plug without the oil return line tube. Plugged original oil return line with bolt and hose clamp. Ran 6 laps at a local vintage moto event, checked drain line, got a little of what appeared to be clear water. Changed oil, ran 30 hard miles on single track (hit rev limiter numerous times) get home, drain tube releases 1/3 (measured) teaspoon of what appears to be clear water. No discharge of oil, etc., into airbox in either case.

So, if condensation is from cold frame receiving hot engine vapors, or whatever other reason, this all seems preferable to recirculating water into crankcase oil. Prescription: Check drain tube periodically, keep close eye on oil level. What am I missing??
Phil
 
Have your had a stack where the bike goes a bit upside down :P haha. Just wondering if the oil can go from the head to frame and since the return hose is plugged it won't return to engine hence oil level maybe a bit low?

Cheers
 
I have not, but it sounds like a possibility. The design of the head probably limits a free flow of oil from the crankcase, but I do not know. Any oil flowing into frame would have equal chances of going to airbox or return line.

Sounds like most of NSW is on fire. Be safe.
 
Cool bananas. I think I will still go ahead with this mod and monitor the oil level :)
Cheers.

N yea NSW is a bit bad atm. I lucky enough to live away a bit from the fires but I ride in Lithgow which has been burnt pretty bad :(
 
Phil where you at with this mod I just got a TE310 and changed the oil the other day I was not pleased with the oil line connected to the drain plug I want to remove it also!? Could it be the same function as on my CRF450 which comes from the factory with a hose from air box to catch water vapors I assume!? I remember only draining it once every few months depending on how much you ride!? See Pics of Honda.
 

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Or... We have a mod we are releasing in the next day or so which replaces your old drain plug with a standard one like on the new 310R engines (allows you to keep your prefilter). The oil drain hose is then attached to a new fill plug which can receive the recycled oil.
 
At this point I have a TE250 drain plug, the cylindrical screen installed, and a clear vinyl 5/16x1/2 tube running from the rearmost/lowest frame nipple down and along the left side secured to the lower left frame rail by the two attached bendable tabs. This 28 inch tube replaces the original return line, and is plugged by a bolt with hose clamp.
I have not ridden much given our weather, but the line is accumulating a very small amount of what I call "spooge", more water than oil, less than a teaspoon.
Ala Tinken's solution, I previously drilled and tapped a new oil fill plug, using hardware store parts and an NPT thread nipple fitting, to which I attached the original drain line. It worked, but I did not like it because the new fitting stuck out too much. A fitting with an elbow, bringing the line back in more parallel with the cylinder would be more elegant.
The clear tube lets me see what is happening. If under hard use lots of oil accumulates, I will redo things. At this point I do not really want what is accumulating returned to the engine. Nothing is showing up in the airbox from the uppermost frame line.
On a slightly related note, I have slipped a tight coiled spring over the high pressure vertical oil line on the right side, and secured it to the cylinder with a long metal hose clamp around the entire cylinder. Keeps it tucked in tighter, and the closed coil spring (undo the banjo fitting and slip it over) hopefully provides a bit more protection.
I am not yet savvy enough to do pictures!
 
Tinken said:
Or... We have a mod we are releasing in the next day or so which replaces your old drain plug with a standard one like on the new 310R engines (allows you to keep your prefilter). The oil drain hose is then attached to a new fill plug which can receive the recycled oil.
Click to expand...

How much and how do I order?
 
Mudvayne-
Re your Honda, I think when you dig into your 310 that you will find it different: one tube goes from the valve cover to the hollow upper frame member middle fitting. An upper fitting connects to the airbox, for vapors. The lower fitting is the return line, for solids, to the drain plug.
It will be fun to see what Tinken comes up with. My question there is whether in their racing experience any significant amount of oil actually gets thrown up into the frame and then returned to the engine. And with a solid drain plug, does that screen serve any function?
Phil
 
Mike-AK said:
How much and how do I order?
Click to expand...
Don't have a price as of yet $49.99, will know when the units come in. You'll be able to order it right from the website. As far as oil consumption goes, high rpm equates to oil usage. Highway use, lots of oil. Ty decided to unhook his oil line and run it to the ground once. He coated his rear tire and wheel with oil, along with the trail and his Dad, top to bottom. I got a good laugh out of it, Terry wasn't impressed.
 
Phil - I should have an ECU any day now so will have a better look when tank is off but I would imagine it can be routed however my TXC 250 is more or less there the same engine!? Should not be a need for all the extra lines, right!? Does the TXC310 have that oil line to the plug!?
 
Tinken said:
Or... We have a mod we are releasing in the next day or so which replaces your old drain plug with a standard one like on the new 310R engines (allows you to keep your prefilter). The oil drain hose is then attached to a new fill plug which can receive the recycled oil.
Click to expand...


Can I pre order? LOL
 
Tinken said:
Or... We have a mod we are releasing in the next day or so which replaces your old drain plug with a standard one like on the new 310R engines (allows you to keep your prefilter). The oil drain hose is then attached to a new fill plug which can receive the recycled oil.
Click to expand...

If what is being said is true regarding water in the line when removed and capped off, would running the line to the fill plug allow water into the sump? I know the line runs down there now but is there any pressure difference from the drain plug location and the filler cap? Just trying to wrap my head around the overall fix.
 
No real pressure down in the case as its just a container for the oil to sit in otherwise it would blow your filler plug off..only pressure is on the pressure side of the sump (oil pump). That line is probably just a breather of sorts probably like pcv valve in your cars valve cover. My guess is the TE bikes cant just vent it to the ground due to emissions etc! I think my YZF and CRF bikes just blow it to the ground get the odd oil drip there if ran crazy hard. They must tie the air cleaner line from the intake into the mix as well.I will look at my TXC250 tomorrow and see how its done than just copy it.
 
Tinken said:
Not exactly sure how water was introduced into the oil system in the first place?
Click to expand...

Tinken I guess the vapors must have to due with the cold intake air hitting the warm combustion air cause water droplets in the intake..I guess something along those lines!?
 
Perhaps a few can replicate the clear vinyl tube and see what you get. Comparing my bike to a Zip-Ty bike is like comparing a tricycle to a Schwinn Paramount (dating myself), in terms of both machine set up and rider. What comes out looks, feels, and tastes like water. If the frame is contaminated, it came that way new. At 719 miles, bike is not using oil or coolant.
 
Does the OEM hose actually feed into the frame or simply just through the frame? Seems to me that it is just a coupling welded through the frame section and not actually using the frame's volume. Am I way off here? Indulge me it's winter here...LOL
 
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