• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 Husqvarna TE511 Engine Damage

D

Dstroyer511

Husqvarna
A Class
Just got my bike back from the dealer and discovered my engine is worn and out of tolerance. Initially we thought the fuel pump and maybe some valve adjustment would do the trick, but when they got in to adjust the valves they found a lot of wear to the cam and bearing surfaces. The parts list comes out to $2500 without labor and that does not include the ridiculous cost of the fuel pump.

So I'm looking for advice on what I can do, I like the bike when it runs, but it has been down more than it has been rideable. I just want something that I can hop on and ride without all the problems these bikes seem to have.

Option 1

Buy a 450 of the same vintage that is not street legal for around $2500-2800 and swap the motor and sell the donor bike for parts.

Option 2

Bite the bullet and order the parts, do the work myself, maybe bump up the performance if possible.

Option 3

Part the bike out How much can I get for the remaining good parts?

Option 4

Sell bike as is (any takers?)
 
option 1 sounds okay... especially if you can sell the "leftover" bike.

why do you need a fuel pump? aftermarket pumps are readily available (<$50, using your aluminum plate). The assembly from husky is insanely high-priced.

why do you have so much wear in the valve train?

Option 5: ride it as-is, if you can (and I'm betting you can)... you don't have much to lose.

good luck.
 
I like option one best. Only issue here is ascertaining that the new donor engine is in good condition.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
option 1 sounds okay... especially if you can sell the "leftover" bike.

why do you need a fuel pump? aftermarket pumps are readily available (<$50, using your aluminum plate). The assembly from husky is insanely high-priced.

why do you have so much wear in the valve train?

Option 5: ride it as-is, if you can (and I'm betting you can)... you don't have much to lose.

good luck.
Click to expand...




I believe the wear comes from a screw in the clutch basket coming loose and grinding aluminum shavings from the clutch cover all in my engine, took me about 6 oil changes to flush most of it out.

I told them not to order the fuel pump as that was my plan after reading a thread on it here on this forum.

To the credit of the dealer, they only charged me $225 for the work that was done instead of the $375, it sounded like they want me to buy a new bike though...
 
ghte said:
I like option one best. Only issue here is ascertaining that the new donor engine is in good condition.
Click to expand...



True, I have seen some that say they have 15 hours on them, but really? I know the usual tell tale signs like paint wear around the pegs.
 
Dstroyer511 said:
I believe the wear comes from a screw in the clutch basket coming loose and grinding aluminum shavings from the clutch cover all in my engine, took me about 6 oil changes to flush most of it out.

I told them not to order the fuel pump as that was my plan after reading a thread on it here on this forum.

To the credit of the dealer, they only charged me $225 for the work that was done instead of the $375, it sounded like they want me to buy a new bike though...
Click to expand...

sounds okay.

but why do you think you need a fuel pump?
 
Dstroyer511 said:
That was the dealer's initial finding when they first looked into the non running issues.
Click to expand...

a fairly fast confirmation of a non or low fueling issue is to use starter fluid: spray it in & then if it starts- you got probably got an issue. No reason to waste money if you don't have to.

if your cam has a non-roller bearing (aluminum casting; like I think the non-chain side is on your bike) then I could see the aluminum dust hurting that surface. but the steel surfaces should have fared a little better, I would guess (wrongly?). Oil starvation caused by clogged oil passages? then all bets are off- the valve train damage could be expansive and expensive.

As I said last year, I would've done a couple of kerosene flushes at least, before running it.

good luck.
 
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