• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE511 to a 2012 TE449

love11

love11

Husqvarna
Has anyone jumped from a 2011 TE511 or 449 to a 2012 Model TE449?

Before I raid the piggy bank to upgrade my 511 suspension, just wondering if there is any big difference in the 2012 suspension, handling, seat hight etc. or would i still have to spend to get the 2012 model dailed in..
 
in same boat
thinking of going for 310 as handling superb but my 449 is so easy to ride but front end tucks under and does nothing for rider confidence.
 
**** read up on this stuff, it is super important to making your bike ride and handle right. ****

this is for street bikes but good overall info...

http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm

more good info...

http://www.suspensionshop.org/tech_suspension_setup.php

and...

http://racetech.com/page/id/30


Gleaned form another site on sag settings...

One of the most critical things to the optimal suspension setup is making sure the sag is set correctly. This includes both the rider sag, and free sag. Below is a breakdows of measurements to ensure your setup is suited for you. We have also included a rough general chart for what your sag should be, but this again depends on you the rider and your situation.

Rider Sag
Measurement A
Place the bike on a stand, wheels un-weighted; measure from the left inside fender bolt to a point on the rear axle.

Measurement B
With the bike off the stand, place the rider with riding gear on the bike in a normal riding position with feet barely touching the ground. Have someone measure between the same two points as before.

Measurement A minus Measurement B
Too much rider sag indicates you must increase pre-load to the spring by turning the Spring / Pre-load Adjuster clockwise. (decreases rider sag measurement).
Too little rider sag indicates you must decrease pre-load to the spring by turning the Spring / Pre-load Adjuster counter clockwise. (increases rider sag measurement).

Rider Sag is a key factor in a proper suspension set-up. We recommend the measurements below. Remember these are only "General" recommendations. Different riding styles, tracks and manufacturer brands may vary these set-ups.

Reccomended Measurements
65cc 70-75mm
85-150cc Mini's 90-105mm
125 thru 650cc 100-110mm

Free Sag
Measurement C
With the bike off the stand and the rider off the bike; push down on the back end and let the bike come up by itself. Measure between the same two points as before.

Measurement A minus Measurement C (Generally 20 - 35mm)
If you set your rider sag and your free sag does not fall within the recommended range; a spring change may be needed.

HINT: Less than 20mm generally indicates a stiffer spring is needed and more than 35mm indicates a softer spring is needed.

NOTE: 1" = 25.4mm
 
Im currently using about 118 rider sag.Taking into account from full tank to 1 litre left the static sag changes by 4mm.
 
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