• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 te310 valve clearence

LBM.

Husqvarna
AA Class
1026 km on my 2011 te310, just checked the valves. Both intakes at .006, left ex at .0065 right side at .008 inch. Was going to leave it as is (manual .006 in .008 ex) .002 shim would put me on the loose side. I just noticed on my right fork leg is the metric spec of .2 to .25mm for the exhaust (.00787 to .00984) using these figures a .002 shim would keep me within this spec. Why the different spec and should I loosen up the left ex clearence?? also concerned about creating a hot start problem as this valve has the decompression part. Any opinions??
2011 te310 at 32 hours.
 
Hey LBM,
For what its worth,
Intake spec is .004-.006
Exaust spec ..006 - .008
not sure why there is a different spec on the fork leg, but the above valve spec is common for almost all huskys.
Do not worry about the manual or automatic decompression, All their work is done from the rocker arm and or above the shim, so get the valve shims right and let the decompression do their thing.
I'm sure you know this, but you will not add a .002 shim you will measure the shim on the .008 valve and it will measure anywhere from .085- .100. Mic it to see what thickness you start with and then buy one that is .001- .002 thicker (they are only 1-2 dollars) and that will bring you to the .007 .006 you were looking for.
I'm sure you know this as well, but remember, as the valves continue to seat and wear at the valve seat the spec clearence shrinks so that .008 is not bad at all. If you shoot for the middle of the spec .005 intake and .007 exaust, you will be perfect + - .001
Good luck
 
newellj,
Thanks for reply. Yes, I had meant to say "add .002 to shim thickness" but good to clarify. I was more concerned about changing that .0065 ex clearence to get closer to .008. Is it possible these x-light engines like a looser exhaust? Either way I will probably run as is for another 10-12 hours and recheck.
L.
 
(my 2cents)
You are currently within "spec" but on the tight side on one ex valve (the one with the auto decomp).
When your valve lash is Loose (.010 or so) your Auto-decomp will be effected and may not be effective- cause it can't make up the diference for the additional clearence. You are on the tight side- so this is a non issue- your Auto Decomp is fine and functional at this clearence. (rather than open the ex valve ?30% you are opening it 35%? {for example}//// if it were loose rather than open the ex valve ?30% you may be only opening it 10%)
As your- specs become tighter you may begin to get symptoms of hot start issues- but that is unrelated to the auto decomp. Auto Decomp not functioning- would make it hard/impossible for your starter to turn the motor past TDC.

I'd leave it for now- write down your specs- and keep checking them, adjust once you are below specs. They may be stable for awhile, or keep moving, just keep track of them.
 
(my 2cents)
You are currently within "spec" but on the tight side on one ex valve (the one with the auto decomp).
When your valve lash is Loose (.010 or so) your Auto-decomp will be effected and may not be effective- cause it can't make up the diference for the additional clearence. You are on the tight side- so this is a non issue- your Auto Decomp is fine and functional at this clearence. (rather than open the ex valve ?30% you are opening it 35%? {for example}//// if it were loose rather than open the ex valve ?30% you may be only opening it 10%)
As your- specs become tighter you may begin to get symptoms of hot start issues- but that is unrelated to the auto decomp. Auto Decomp not functioning- would make it hard/impossible for your starter to turn the motor past TDC.

I'd leave it for now- write down your specs- and keep checking them, adjust once you are below specs. They may be stable for awhile, or keep moving, just keep track of them.

This is correct....I lossened up a slightly tight exhaust valve to a touch above the spec and I believe that is when I started to have hot start trouble.

BE CAREFULL...X-Light cam bolts are easy to strip if they are not stripped from the factory. 4ftlb max on the 5mm cap bolts.
 
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