• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 Te250 Fuel Failure

F

firemansam

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi guys. I have a 2011 TE 250 and the fuel pump died in it. I replaced it with an aftermarket pump that was supposedly for that model. When I went to start it, it run but a bit rough. Now it won’t turn over at all and the display reads fuel failure. I can’t afford the $1200 for an official fuel pump. Does anybody have any suggestions please?
 
Well, I'm about to put a CA cycleworks pump in my 2010 TE250.

I will let you know how it goes.

When you turn on the key does the pump prime? Can you hear it run?
Also, take it out and make sure the neither the wires nor the fuel hoses popped off.
 
The CA cycleworks pup seems to work fine.

I swapped to a different pump housing and it seems like this one has a slightly higher fuel pressure regulator because the bike seems to run a little richer on the bottom.
????

Anyway, bike starts easier than ever now. halfhearted kick gets it going when warm. Nice trade off.
 
The pump wouldn’t prime. Sounds like it wanted to but wouldn’t. I ended up buying another aftermarket pump, fitted it and it runs like a dream. I’m still shocked at the failure rate of the factory pumps though. Random unrelated question now I’ve got it running again. What oil does it take? I’ve pretty much never ridden it and someone else has done all its oil changes and I can’t find anywhere on the internet what oil I need to buy to change it.
 
10w50 100% synthetic. think also about changing the oil filter (hf116). check air filter also...
 
after a few oil-related failures on the (original Italian xlite) race team bikes here in the US, they switched to Mobil 1 zero-40 euro car oil (yeah, 0W-40; btw- not the japanese car stuff) for increased oil flow. They weren't having oil pressure problems, but flow problems.

CH user Tinken (ex-ZipTy engineer/machinist) convinced me and a bunch of us here. I've have 7700miles on my xlite with zero problems now. Not absolute proof but there you go. (btw, I'm not at race speeds very often though).

many threads around here about this too.

good luck.

ps- your bike is an xlite.
 
Make sure you get intimate with the oil change procedure as the bike only takes .8 qts and needs a lot of oil changes.
 
R_Little said:
Make sure you get intimate with the oil change procedure as the bike only takes .8 qts and needs a lot of oil changes.
Click to expand...

well, i agree with that- but are you sure about the oil amount?

I've been putting in 46ml more than what i *thought* was the recommended amount (900ml) for a total of 1qt or 946ml. shit, if I was only supposed to put in 0.8qts (25-26oz) than I've been overfilling by 6 or 7 ounces (euro: 200ml).

That's a bit more substantial than my 1+ oz overfill I've been adding- just because my graduated cylinder has ounces.

I'm gonna hafta check the manual I guess.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
well, i agree with that- but are you sure about the oil amount?

I've been putting in 46ml more than what i *thought* was the recommended amount (900ml) for a total of 1qt or 946ml. shit, if I was only supposed to put in 0.8qts (25-26oz) than I've been overfilling by 6 or 7 ounces (euro: 200ml).

That's a bit more substantial than my 1+ oz overfill I've been adding- just because my graduated cylinder has ounces.

I'm gonna hafta check the manual I guess.
Click to expand...

.8 ltrs or 800ccs actually. My bad. Also, i leave the filter in for 3-4 changes. Add a touch more if you change the filter.

Anyway, whatever puts the oil level at midway on the sight glass.
 
But not 900cc? Shit... now I gotta look.

I get confused between my xlite and my son's 511 (1100cc IIRC). Getting old sux.
 
yeah... I go for just under the top of the sight glass. Half way down is my min. (and then if I add ~4oz/120ml of oil- it brings it up to just under the top).

I looked at the service manual; the recommended fill is 900ml with a filter change, and 850ml without. Since I always change the filter, I go big. In addition, the 310r has that weird oil return system which takes 1oz more at least. The top of my graduated cylinder is 946ml (1qt) so I just go with that (and being the engineer that I was... I am auto-magically suspicious of round numbers like 900cc).

I feel slightly better with a bit over 900ml than less, on these engines with a tiny crankcase. Sight glasses rule, 'cause that's where some engineer wanted the oil level- regardless of oil volume.
 
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