• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 2011 CR150 clutch drag

montgob1

Husqvarna
A Class
My 09 CR and 11 CR have the exact same lever and cable for the clutch. The 09 has a bunch of hours, the 11 has like 2. The 09 never crept when i put it in gear, the 11 does it every time, and the levers are adjusted the same. The 11 still starts in gear fine, it just kind of annoys me. I read somewhere that the CR got some TC clutch parts in 2010 or 2011?? i havnt seen or verified that. What i am feeling at the track tells me there might be something different for the 11 under the cover though. Anybody else noticed this?
 
I noticed I had bad clutch drag too (after switching oils), and couldn't get it to start in gear 75% of the time I switched to rotella and el-probelmo solved... 09 WR125
 
I tried the Rotella syn (cheap by the gallon at Wallmart) and it helped a bunch. Now I use ATF since it works and is MUCH cheaper.
 
All my Huskys have been picky about oil. I have had the best luck for the money with Delo LE. It works better then the cheap Rotella for me. The syn Rotella works OK but not much different then the Delo. The best I have used is 0-40 weight Mobile 1 or Amsoil but they are expensive and regardless what oil I run it starts shifting bad if I go more then two rides.
 
ATF to my mind is the way to go, its thin, can withstand heat, and is good for clutch plates, also you can buy a gallon at a good price so regular changes cost next to nothing
 
Which Rotella are you using?
thanks
Bill

The synthetic blend (I think it's a gold bottle). I have buddies that use the non-synthetic without issues, but the exta $4 a gallon was worth it to me. The clutch feel is PERFECT, and it's only about $15 a gallon for the blend...
 
I use Rotella triple protection 15w40 in the yellow bottle. I've used ATF+4 with good results but the Rotella seems to make shifting and clutch engagement smoother. This is true for both my GasGas EC200 and my Husky WR250.
 
I've been using Rotella in my 07 TE450 from first oil change and have had no problems and it works great. Tried the regular and the syn. both felt the same. Actually, Rekluse recomends it too. I haven't tried it in my WR125 yet because I have some oil from when I purchased it. I will use that up first. Back when I was racing enduro's I ran ATF in all my race bikes and never had a problem. I am in the automotive field and I have always been "leary" of using oils meant for car "engines" like Mobil 1, Castrol, especially if they state the are formulated for "better fuel milage" ........because of the additives to make it "slipperyer". Could cause a problem with the clutch plates. BUT, folks are using it with no problems so go figure.
I run Rotella in my TE450, lawnmower, push mower, 08 XT250, mini dune buggy, skid steer, 2 Toyota Camry's, leaf blower, log splitter........anything I have that takes oil. I change everything very regularly and using 1 oil (with very good success) is super easy.
 
The synthetic blend (I think it's a gold bottle). I have buddies that use the non-synthetic without issues, but the exta $4 a gallon was worth it to me. The clutch feel is PERFECT, and it's only about $15 a gallon for the blend...

Correction, it's a silver bottle.
 
My 4t bike clutch drags so bad with the dino oil that you must use both legs in front of the pegs to hold the bike back when in 1st gear and stopped ... Go with a 75/25 SYN mixture and no dragging issues ... Seems a little weird we all get a different behavior ...

Its a little interesting on the ATF... It just proves oil is oil ... I.E. -- There is no hole in the ground that spits ATF ... It comes from crude same as all other oils ... The refining process is such that it begins life as a ~20WT(?) oil ... Then a package is added and it becomes ATF ..

A 2t transmission is very tough ... I've seen them run miles with only a cup of oil maybe and run all year on 1 oil change with no long term issues...

Other than the thin shear strength (of a thin ATF oil) in question that obviously works because people use it successfully, the numbers below come from a MSDS sheet that shows the properties of a dino ATF oil ...Looks like heat is the killer here ... So as long as the tranny ran in its operating temps, OK, but if it heats up, its shearing strength gets weak ... Synthetic oils (ATF) handle heat better by default than dino oils and should provide better insurance in the case of heat build up ....

34 cSt at 40 Celsius (104 degrees F.)
7 cSt at 100 Celsius (212 degrees F.)
 
Back
Top