• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2010 WR250 Fork Oil Change

P

PaulD

Husqvarna
AA Class
Can anyone provide me with a link or sme direction for changing the fork oil on my WR. Done a bunch of conventional forks over the years but never messed with USD forks. Pretty sure the oil is original. bikehass about 100 hours on it. Oil weight recommendations are also welcome. Thanks,Paul
 
The open chamber Kayaba forks on my WR300 2010 are pretty easy to maintain, just follow the OEM manual instructions. I like to use an OIL that is almost the same viscosity as the original Kayaba oil, you can have a look at several viscosity comparison tables and/or search for the datasheet PDF of your oil to find out the actual viscosity:

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You want to be near the 17.00 cSt @40`C, as you see not all 'SAE 5' oils do have the same viscosity so I prefer to look for the actual cSt value and not rely on the SAE number on the bottle.

For example the last oil I used was BelRay Fork Oil 5wt that's and 20,50 cSt so it's more viscous than the original Kayaba so I mixed it at a 3:1 ratio with some BelRay Fork Oil 2,5wt thats an 9,20cSt, giving me a estimated result viscosity of 16.73cSt.

In your case with 100hrs I would also consider changing the seals and depending on the wear maybe the teflon coated 'rings'.


Regards.
 
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