• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2010 WR 300 Jetting

Woodsrider101

Woodsrider101

Husqvarna
C Class
Can anyone give me an idea on what jetting changes I should do at all on my new 2010 WR300, everthing is factory specs, untouched on carb. I plan on leaving the stock Mikuni on and maybe change down the road to the keihn pwk 38 if I cannot dial it in. The dealer told me he can usally get them running crisp without having to change carbs. I plan on leaving the bike stock, no porting or cylinder head modifications. The bike has more than enough power for me, I am just a trail rider and may do an occasional hare scramble. I live in N.E. OH and do most of my riding in N.W. PA and Hatfield McCoy Trails in WV.
Should I change the main and pilot jet, change needle position, and how many turns on air screw ?
Or just leave alone, it seems to start by 3rd kick and idle fine, have not had on the trails yet though....
Also a jetting kit came with bike, are they really rich from the factory and since it is new with a couple break in hours on it should I continue to run my fuel mixture at 32 to 1 Any input would be helpful.
 
Check the two stroke jetting data base. There is lots of useful stuff and info. I have just swapped TMX for an airstryker and the change is well worth while. The TMX was difficult to get how I wanted it and always felt like there should be more power available especially at the mid range and top end. The PWK appears to make more smooth power across the range with the bike runing much crisper and no spooge anywhere.
 
windsurf said:
Check the two stroke jetting data base. There is lots of useful stuff and info. I have just swapped TMX for an airstryker and the change is well worth while. The TMX was difficult to get how I wanted it and always felt like there should be more power available especially at the mid range and top end. The PWK appears to make more smooth power across the range with the bike runing much crisper and no spooge anywhere.
Click to expand...

By the way I use motul 800 at 40:1 for the first couple of tanks and then 50:1 ever since. I don't know how many hours I have put on it, but about 1000miles and the piston, rings and cylinder look great.
 
Dave our tech has all the jetting specs locked in his toolbox,he just jetted another one today so I can give info tomorrow,Dave Fox one of our support riders took his new 2011 Wr300 box stock to the Pac West opener in Madras, Oregon won all 4 motos both days in 40ex,the spokes and motor mounts loosened alot but he loves the power and ride,its primarly a Mx bike to him so we will be working getting it dialed for that and maybe a few GPs,let you know jetting asap.billf..
 
I just got the Mikuni running crisp and clean on my 09 WR250 and it really wasn't that tough. It responded to every change I made just like it should. I don't see what all the negative Mikuni talk is all about.
 
I dont think the Mikuni is necessarily bad, its is just that the PWK seams to release more power easily. So far as cost was concerned by the time I bought several Mikuni jets, maybe a throttle slide and some needles it was the same as a new Keihin with a JD kit and several spare jets. I guess the best thing would be to have a ride on 250/300 with the PWK and do some back to back testing.
 
windsurf said:
I dont think the Mikuni is necessarily bad, its is just that the PWK seams to release more power easily. So far as cost was concerned by the time I bought several Mikuni jets, maybe a throttle slide and some needles it was the same as a new Keihin with a JD kit and several spare jets. I guess the best thing would be to have a ride on 250/300 with the PWK and do some back to back testing.
Click to expand...

From a dynorun when the Mikuni was compared with the Keihin the Keihin gave 3,5 more hp at 300 rpm, and 5 horsepower at 3500rpm. That says it all, and when it comes to jetting the Keihin is less sensitive to weatherchanges. It´s also very easy to rejet with it´s screw-on top and just twist the carb in the boot. You change needle in 2 minutes. I have tried both and laborated a lot with needles and jets. The best setup with the Mikuni for me was to use a needle named 6DEY15-74 and 460-480 main during wintertime.
I think this is a stock needle for Yamaha YZ 250 -00, but i´m not sure.

Johnny.
 
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