• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TXC 250 bogging and cutting out

Jayden-R

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey it's me again with seemingly the most unreliable bike ever.
I just got my bike back from Bills Motorcycle Plus after they got it sparking and a cylinder head repair. They tuned it best they could but the bike runs worse than a drunk cripple.
The bike will usually start around 7th to 15th kick and won't start at all using the electric start.
Anything from 0 - half throttle is extremely choppy and will bog and cut out most of the time. Funny thing is the top end feels and sounds SOOOOOOOOO good, I'm really confused.
I realize that these bikes are notorious for having bottom end bog but this is not even rideable.
I really don't know what it could be at this point. I've seen a few things about the JD Tuner getting rid of the bog on these bikes but I'm not sure what it would do to my bike. And I don't like the thought of spending $240.00 to potentially not fix the problem.
Thanks for reading
 
fuel filter and injector need to be changed just by course of hours by now. This sounds like a classic injector issue. the same symptoms regularly happen among my crew and their KTM injected bikes. Same issue happened with my TXC310R. Sent injector to ZipTy Racing they have a pro injector specialty company they use and send them out for test and cleaning, at the same evolution we pressurized and pumped/squirted fuel though the system to blow out and particles and did a new fuel filter. Fresh fuel is also a good idea, probably freshen your spark plug to just to get a good baseline. The last injector issue I saw was last month the guy needed to be towed to fire the thing off then had to keep it almost pinned and clutch slipping to keep it going. All my KTM /Husky injected crew carry the extra injector and some even have the 12VDC motion pro cleaner kit in their baja long range pack ups.

at this point in the age cycle check all your electrical connections too, I know I would lots of corrosion can happen in 9 years.
 
What about running some injector cleaner through the fuel-cheap and who knows it might work. However, Robert is usually spot on with his comments-so new or cleaned injector is a probability. Agree-change the fuel filter and plug.
 
fuel filter and injector need to be changed just by course of hours by now. This sounds like a classic injector issue. the same symptoms regularly happen among my crew and their KTM injected bikes. Same issue happened with my TXC310R. Sent injector to ZipTy Racing they have a pro injector specialty company they use and send them out for test and cleaning, at the same evolution we pressurized and pumped/squirted fuel though the system to blow out and particles and did a new fuel filter. Fresh fuel is also a good idea, probably freshen your spark plug to just to get a good baseline. The last injector issue I saw was last month the guy needed to be towed to fire the thing off then had to keep it almost pinned and clutch slipping to keep it going. All my KTM /Husky injected crew carry the extra injector and some even have the 12VDC motion pro cleaner kit in their baja long range pack ups.

at this point in the age cycle check all your electrical connections too, I know I would lots of corrosion can happen in 9 years.

I have had this bike for 11 months now and put less than two hours on it. I've replaced every electrical component in that period except for the R/R, ECU, Injector and fuel pump. the ECU has only 56 total hours on it and the fuel pump is an aftermarket one. I've run injector cleaner through it a couple times now. I will be buying a new injector as soon as I get paid next. I'll probably change the fuel filter just because why not. Thanks for the advice we'll see what happens.
 
What about running some injector cleaner through the fuel-cheap and who knows it might work. However, Robert is usually spot on with his comments-so new or cleaned injector is a probability. Agree-change the fuel filter and plug.

Plug is new. ran the cleaner through the injector and didn't change anything. I'll replace the injector and filter when I get paid next week.
 
If it makes you feel any worse, I have a 2010 TE250 that has about 200 hrs on it and it runs fine on the stock 4pt injector and ECU.
Injector has never been out of the bike.

I'd make SURE you have I-Beat showing no faults and TPS set at 102.7% at WOT.

I'm concerned about that Aftermarket pump.
Are you sure it is putting out 45 PSI or whatever the spec is?
Robertaccio is right about the fuel filter. Change it and make sure your lines are not kinked or restricted?

OTOH, running good up top suggests the fuel pressure is good?

if pressure is low the bike should backfire like crazy.

Also, check cam timing.

Also keep the idle speed up to about 2200 rpm.

If you lived by me we could swap gas tanks and pumps ECUs and such.
 
Keep in mind for the most part the injector itself rarely fails, most can be sent in for service and be returned to perfect condition. The big thing is not to just install a fresh injector without clearing the lines.
 
If it makes you feel any worse, I have a 2010 TE250 that has about 200 hrs on it and it runs fine on the stock 4pt injector and ECU.
Injector has never been out of the bike.

I'd make SURE you have I-Beat showing no faults and TPS set at 102.7% at WOT.

I'm concerned about that Aftermarket pump.
Are you sure it is putting out 45 PSI or whatever the spec is?
Robertaccio is right about the fuel filter. Change it and make sure your lines are not kinked or restricted?

OTOH, running good up top suggests the fuel pressure is good?

if pressure is low the bike should backfire like crazy.

Also, check cam timing.

Also keep the idle speed up to about 2200 rpm.

If you lived by me we could swap gas tanks and pumps ECUs and such.

I have never messed with IBeat before, so I guess I'm going to learn about it now. Bill over at BMC had the TPS reset and he said he tuned it best he could, not sure what he used to tune it but I have the setting that he put it at.
No kinks in the line and the fuel filter is fine. I haven't tested how much pressure it has but since it runs great at WOT I would venture to say its putting out plenty of pressure. Bike doesn't tend to backfire, however I have had it backfire a few times while starting it and right when it dies.
I haven't checked the cam timing yet but there's no reason it should be off. I'll check it when I get the time anyways.
As far as idle speed goes, it sound right about right. I'll check it out when I learn more about IBeat.
 
hey, my 10' TE250 with TXC tune, hates over oiled air filters (coughs, rough idle, pops, etc) at low RPMs, I think it gums up the MAF, what works for me is taking the filter off, spray from sensor cleaner into the throttle body while running (it will die, start it up and repeat a few times) clean the air filter again with Maxima spray air filter oil (or something similar), and reassemble. Run high octane >91 if you can, check your spark plug gap, and check your idle screw (I run mine 2.5-3 turns out - adjust to keep steady idle while in gear with clutch in), and last but not least check your cold start lever (small red lever above clutch lever - and assembly which is just above exhaust at bottom of throttle body) The idle adjust screw and cold start work with each other to give good idle - take out it out and clean it as well. Ive learned so much about my bike it's stupid. these things love their maintenance - good thing I like to wrench lol. but its a blast to run the woods though. so nimble. hope this helps.

edit: This is in parallel to ensuring your fuel system is up to par - Ive had to clean my injector 12pt a few times and installed a Ducati fuel pump filter as well, made it even better it seems.
 
hey, my 10' TE250 with TXC tune, hates over oiled air filters (coughs, rough idle, pops, etc) at low RPMs, I think it gums up the MAF, what works for me is taking the filter off, spray from sensor cleaner into the throttle body while running (it will die, start it up and repeat a few times) clean the air filter again with Maxima spray air filter oil (or something similar), and reassemble. Run high octane >91 if you can, check your spark plug gap, and check your idle screw (I run mine 2.5-3 turns out - adjust to keep steady idle while in gear with clutch in), and last but not least check your cold start lever (small red lever above clutch lever - and assembly which is just above exhaust at bottom of throttle body) The idle adjust screw and cold start work with each other to give good idle - take out it out and clean it as well. Ive learned so much about my bike it's stupid. these things love their maintenance - good thing I like to wrench lol. but its a blast to run the woods though. so nimble. hope this helps.

edit: This is in parallel to ensuring your fuel system is up to par - Ive had to clean my injector 12pt a few times and installed a Ducati fuel pump filter as well, made it even better it seems.

Be aware also the 2010 oil venting system also dumps a lot of crankcase oil into the intake boot at hi-rpm. Mine always has the intake covered in oil. the 2012s have a different system that returns the oil to the crankcase rather than sucking it into the intake boot. On my side the oil does not seem to effect running, but I do have to watch the oil level.
 
Be aware also the 2010 oil venting system also dumps a lot of crankcase oil into the intake boot at hi-rpm. Mine always has the intake covered in oil. the 2012s have a different system that returns the oil to the crankcase rather than sucking it into the intake boot. On my side the oil does not seem to effect running, but I do have to watch the oil level.

Hey, you are correct, but I guess I should rephrase, most of the coughing and rough idle seem to appear right after a fresh oiling of the air filter so its plausible I was over oiling the filter, but it seems to do it everytime. Since my engine was rebuilt the blow by is significantly less. I like the idea to incorporate the 2012 version of return, ill have to look into that. I've got 100 hours/4800 km on the rebuild now and no issues with significant oil loss, but I should also say I am not bouncing it off the redline either.
 
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