2010 te 450 wiring issue update

[ADSTE]

Hi thought I'd share some info for those who may struggle with electrics on these bikes EFI

We'll mine lucky failed after washing at home getting ready for the next ride

Cause
Relay clicking pump not turning
Thought is was relay so gave a tap with screw driver------ started ok. Interesting, bad relay?????

We'll NO

After many hours and days it was found to a worn harness but where you ask

Mine was at the loop in to the ECU and was rubbing on the EFI housing
I recall getting FAIL readings occasionally when riding but would then be fine
NOTE...I had sealed up all the resistors in a silicon so it would become fully sealed and not effected by water.

Also NOTE that any electronics circuits systems are only as going as the input stability of the system.

So with in mind using the elec diagram found that the O2 sensor wire had been rubbing on the frame as before and would confuse the ECU. Wiring almost all the strands missing on this wire I simply filled it with solder and place elec tape on the repair. ( I am an electrician ) it's like bending a hose and not water comes out ( basically)

I then used high voltage rubber tape to support the harness into the ECU to keep it away from the frame and guess what, it fired up no problem********************************************************************************!

Note that I also thought it was a fuel pump but so far it's ok....... Time will tell I guess.


The elec system can be quite tricky to understand so you need to realise why things might fail.........


Granted not everyone is a sparky and I'm also glad it happened at home. I suggest everyone check their looms as it appears at least it is a simple fix.


Feel free to reply if you need a hand with elec system.

Cheers Ads

Ps the husky doesn't deserve the critisim that it sometimes gets. I have seen many KTM and Honda fail in the bush too.

 

[duggoey]

Ps the husky doesn't deserve the critisim that it sometimes gets. I have seen many KTM and Honda fail in the bush too.

Youre right, but the wiring on these models is particularly crap (in my opinion). Ive had very similar problems to yours, they could be prevented if the wiring was better insulated, re-routed or even better reduced.

It doesnt help though that they were originally designed with a carb, the efi and fuel pump stuff is essentially a retrofit.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

After many hours and days it was found to a worn harness but where you ask

Mine was at the loop in to the ECU and was rubbing on the EFI housing

Here's my worn harness at the frame bridge over the injector. The first pic are the grooves that the wires actually wore INTO the metal from vibrating

 

[ADSTE]

Here's my worn harness at the frame bridge over the injector. The first pic are the grooves that the wires actually wore INTO the metal from vibrating

Did you take that from my bike?????


exactly the same.......but now i had my bike in the bush after going up a hard snotty hill.

My pump would not work so i got towed to my car (lucky) and thenit started. I also noticed that i could smell fuel that i never smelt before????

WTF???

Leaning towards the famous fuel pump.....

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

My pump would not work so i got towed to my car (lucky) and thenit started. I also noticed that i could smell fuel that i never smelt before????

WTF???

Leaning towards the famous fuel pump.....

If the bike runs good until it gets hot and then quits and you can't hear the fuel pump prime, and then it starts when the bike cools down, that the seizing fuel pump.

 

[ADSTE]

We'll I'm thinking it's the water temp sensor got a friends one and going to compare using 100 deg C water then measure the 2 as they cool down

 

[ADSTE]

Well i measured the temp sensor of mine and a friends spare and appear to be very similar in its curve of resistance.
It matches a post up from Husky temp sensor values.. either we are all wrong or maybe my bike is not reacting well and may need Husky to hook up the Ibeat????

The only other option is too consider the pump and recheck the the wiring repair i did and if my small solder reapir has not taken to the wiring.......
I love a technicial challenge but this seems to be an interesting problem.... shame that it happens when you least want it to.


Welcome all opinions and advice

these seem to match the 2 temp senors i have
FROM olderhuskyrider

Some of my results with a cup of hot water and a meat thermometer:
OHM meter set at 20k on the dial
188F = .260
182F = .280
175F = .300
170F = .320
150F = .400
140F = .500
126F = .690 (you showed 83F at this resistance)
75F = 2.07​

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Have you had the pump out of the bike yet? Could be a loose connection on top of the fuel pump.


Here's another chaffed wire I had, that's the Green with red stripe wire, loops to the fuel injector, fuel pump AND coil, very critical wire.

 

[ADSTE]

Yes and thanks i had the pump out and everything looks and measured fine.
But

When it first failed I could not get any continuity from the negative of the pump to the frame or directly on the earth point on the head of the bolt under the tank.
That when i found yoru photos above also ....did my quick solder repair and then it worked....

seems very weird to me.

 

[ADSTE]

We'll I just took a look at my original repair and the solder did not take hence as I have a resistor 2155 ohms ( power up) with the lambda sensor removed by husky. My br/ w wire had worn half the strands away. Actually cut away the wear and placed a new wire and sealed the connections. This wire goes to the O2 sensor ( resistor) then becomes the br/gn. wire which goes to the injector and coil. Seems ok and the water temp sensor does too. Your 150 ohm resistor seems very clever but a bit nervous to try that. My fuel range is approx 85-90 klms What yours....?????

Bike primes well but the test would be in some snott......I guess if the resistance was changing with reference to the O2 resistance with the dodgy wire would that effect the fuel pump via the ECU???? That's what I'm thinking other than that I can't find any. Other faults and the components and wiring look sound..

 

[ADSTE]

If the bike runs good until it gets hot and then quits and you can't hear the fuel pump prime, and then it starts when the bike cools down, that the seizing fuel pump.

We'll I bought a ca- cycle works pump......

Need to install and see how it goes.. Got from a local supplier of this pump in Melbourne Australia. He says that he sold 56 in 12, 67 in 13, and 16 in 14. So far. The original pump is crap and only a matter of time to fail....

Can't wait to try it.

 

[ADSTE]

Ok finally on the bike

Wiring fixed damaged wiring replaced. Loom rerouted along frame.
New pump fitted ......worked awesome
New front 403 tyre. ..awesome in the wet winter here in Australia
Checked all valves ..all as normal from factory specs
Fork
R 10
C10. Will change to 8 as it bottom out on hard landing erosion wash out jumps
Shock
Hs from 15 to 13
Ls from 15 to 13
R from 18 to 16

Bike ran very well in the wet today and had plenty of grip...very happy
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[Kreza]

Today finally had a fuel pump issue, turn ignition on a just a click, no priming of the pump. My bike has previously had the wiring loom replaced under warranty, I also previously secured the fuel pump to prevent dislodgement and put dielectric grease on every connection. Long story short the black wire terminal connection on top of the pump was loose, simply squeezed it with pliers and all good now. I did notice yesterday in preparation for today it was very slow to start and after todays fix the fuel pump really primes up strongly and is easy to hear now after that little fix.

 

[Kreza]

We'll I bought a ca- cycle works pump......

Need to install and see how it goes.. Got from a local supplier of this pump in Melbourne Australia. He says that he sold 56 in 12, 67 in 13, and 16 in 14. So far. The original pump is crap and only a matter of time to fail....

Can't wait to try it.

So who in Melbourne sells those pumps?

 

[ADSTE]

Brad the bike boy Melbourne

 

[Kreza]

A bit of an update on an earlier post above, headlight stopped working along with all the LH switch components, bike became increasingly hard to start and fuel pump would not prime. Relay seemed to be working as there was an audible click. After a week of headaches chasing frayed wiring and dirty connections it all pointed to the relay and relays.

Swapped all three around and occasionally it would fire up. Swapped mine over with another bike and it fired up every time and the other bike would not work. So all 3 of mine have given up together in a short space of time.

I cut open a relay and reconnected it, sure enough it would try to latch but drop off so you could here it clicking but not actually latching on. Had me stumped for a while as I didn't believe that all 3 relays could be faulty at the same time.

Just because a relay sounds like it is working doesn't mean it is working.