• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TC250 Oil Change First time

TCP

TCP

Husqvarna
AA Class
A few changes on the new 250's. The first thing I noticed is that the oil filter is a new, smaller style with a wave washer between the case and the filter. When you are cleaning out the filter cover the twisting action (to see in it) can leverage the oil line and loosen the banjo bolt so make sure you check torque when filter cover installation is complete.

Remove the plastic skid plate and get out the dental tools. After you loosen the 12mm drain bolt (easy) the challenge is to get the drain bolt out without dropping something or wearing the oil. There is ALMOST enough room to do it easily, but it is going to take some practice. There is only one screen on this model (behind the drain bolt) and it took a little work to get it out. I used a Snap On pick witha 45 bend. I was being very cautious because I didn't want to poke a hole in the screen and couldn't get it out. When I applied a little more force it came out OK but it is definatly a snug fit in the bore. The screen is pretty stout so it would be difficult to poke a hole in it unless your a total hack. Once I saw how it was designed (open on both ends) I will have a different approach to removing it next time by simply inserting the tool ALL THE WAY through the screen an pulling it out by hooking on the back end of it. When reinstalling push the screen all the way in with a small tool before you start the drain screw back in. I did notice that the drain screw fit into one end of the screen better the other so that is the way I reinstalled it. Not sure if it is made to go a specific direction or if it just fit better (looser) where it attached to the the drain screw because that is the side it was initiallly installed on at the factory. There was the typical amount of metallic material in the filter but none in the screen or in the oil itself. The filter caught it ALL. Added 950cc of Maxima Syn Blend 4 and ready to moto.
 
Thx Pauleee

Any chance of some pics to go along with your report?
Once I saw how it was designed (open on both ends) I will have a different approach to removing it next time by simply inserting the tool ALL THE WAY through the screen an pulling it out by hooking on the back end of it.
Click to expand...

Make sure you don't damage the screen with the pick tool.:eek: It might be better if you dull the point of the pick a bit.

:cheers:
 
Interesting .....with regards to those plastic skid plates.....and the spacers etc....

not sure if its the same as the WR plate.....but if it is....to avoid the hassle of taking it off....I heated a piece of inch and a half pipe with a torch then pushed it through the plastic while it was still on the bike....presto easy oil change access....:busted:

does it have to come off on the new 250....?? to service the filters and screens:excuseme:
 
Klas;53367 said:
If it is any help

TC/TE 250 2010 have sam oilfilter as Honda CRF 250

Hiflo 116

Klas
Click to expand...

HF563 is the new # for 2010 250's.
HF154 was for 09 and earlier.
Maybe that 116 will work when you can't find the others....don't know.
 
Great idea for working around the WR skid plate. On the 250F the drain bolt is threaded horizontally into the cases and very close to the frame rail cross member. I don't think you would have enough room trying to go in though a hole in the skid pan unless it was very big. Reinstalling the drain bolt from the rear (through shock linkage) was not a straight shot and I was concerned about cross threading, so pulling the pan and using a box end was more comfortable for me. Basically, I did everything to be as cautious as possible the first time.

I'll try a few different things next time and post results.
 
glangston;53370 said:
HF563 is the new # for 2010 250's.
HF154 was for 09 and earlier.
Maybe that 116 will work when you can't find the others....don't know.
Click to expand...

Hi agian

563 is the same filter as 154 only a new type of seal. They fit -2009

TE/TC 250 2010- have a complete new filter (CRF250)

Hiflo 116

Klas
 
Just did my oil for the first time yesterday. As pauleee mentioned, things are a bit tight in the area of the drain plug. Not an engineering triumph on behalf of Husky engineers but it's workable with a bit of patience and nimble, thin fingers (mine are fat, short, and fumbly).

I didn't have much trouble getting the screen out. A few gentle prods with a blunted point ice pick at the very front edge just inside the hole and I was able pop it out far enough to grab with my fingers between the frame and the case to finish the extraction. I had a few shavings on the screen and in the oil, a bit more than I've been used to with the older 250 motors. I'll keep my eyes on it next time.

Based on the appearance of the used oil, I'll be changing oil at least every other ride. The oil wasn't black or burnt looking, but you could certainly tell it was working hard in the 2-3 hours it was in the case. .9 quarts is not a lot of fluid.

I also changed the coolant to Engine Ice. No drain plug on this motor. You remove the bottom hose from the head and drain that way. I actually like this method better as is drains much faster but is messy cuz it splashes all over the place.
 
Just did first oil change... Talking to # 1 son and missed which way oil filter came out./.. The rubber seal mate against oil filter housing cover huh ?? Snug fit... Wafer washer between filter and casing... 900 ml of oil ??

Many thanks
 
Someone please answer me... I have to race 2moz. Is there any pics to go with the USB manual to make things easier
 
pauleee;53320 said:
A few changes on the new 250's. The first thing I noticed is that the oil filter is a new, smaller style with a wave washer between the case and the filter. When you are cleaning out the filter cover the twisting action (to see in it) can leverage the oil line and loosen the banjo bolt so make sure you check torque when filter cover installation is complete.

Remove the plastic skid plate and get out the dental tools. After you loosen the 12mm drain bolt (easy) the challenge is to get the drain bolt out without dropping something or wearing the oil. There is ALMOST enough room to do it easily, but it is going to take some practice. There is only one screen on this model (behind the drain bolt) and it took a little work to get it out. I used a Snap On pick witha 45 bend. I was being very cautious because I didn't want to poke a hole in the screen and couldn't get it out. When I applied a little more force it came out OK but it is definatly a snug fit in the bore. The screen is pretty stout so it would be difficult to poke a hole in it unless your a total hack. Once I saw how it was designed (open on both ends) I will have a different approach to removing it next time by simply inserting the tool ALL THE WAY through the screen an pulling it out by hooking on the back end of it. When reinstalling push the screen all the way in with a small tool before you start the drain screw back in. I did notice that the drain screw fit into one end of the screen better the other so that is the way I reinstalled it. Not sure if it is made to go a specific direction or if it just fit better (looser) where it attached to the the drain screw because that is the side it was initiallly installed on at the factory. There was the typical amount of metallic material in the filter but none in the screen or in the oil itself. The filter caught it ALL. Added 950cc of Maxima Syn Blend 4 and ready to moto.
Click to expand...

Paulee, My manula says 900cc (900ml) of oil when changing oil and oil filter, why did you go 950 ??
 
watch out for reading volume of oil and other stuff from you manual it is converted poorly to English i have found that with my manual eg it said it takes 1.7 of oil for oil change well 1.5 and its full ???????
 
Klas;53367 said:
If it is any help

TC/TE 250 2010 have sam oilfilter as Honda CRF 250

Hiflo 116

Klas
Click to expand...

krieg;58513 said:
I used an HF 116 and it fit fine.
Click to expand...

Your correct:thumbsup: Online catalogue for Hiflo filtro filters http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html

Have a look here. 2010 TC250 http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=3301
or TE250 http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=3304

CRF250 2004-2009 http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=88
 
I use a "pipe cleaner" type of brush to get the screen out. I use one that is a snug fit going it, and it pulls the screen right out, without worrying about poking a hole through the screen.

The other design flaw I noticed: as you pull the screen out all of the metal shaving/bits/gunk stuck to the screen get scraped off into the case or onto the threads. When they are on the threads, they can cause the bolt to cross thread. I usually pour a 100cc of oil through the motor with the plug out to flush out any gunk.

JS
 
Dispite the fact that my oil banjo bolt came loose while riding 6 mnths ago with 28 miles on the bike, I'm happy to report that no debris showed up at all on on the filter or the screen on each of the 2 succeeding oil changes!

Yes, that drain bolt is a PITA!

I use the 116 filter also.
 
husky bom;119971 said:
watch out for reading volume of oil and other stuff from you manual it is converted poorly to English i have found that with my manual eg it said it takes 1.7 of oil for oil change well 1.5 and its full ???????
Click to expand...

Husky bom.... What are you riding at 1.7l of oil ??


My manual in all languages converts to state 900ml of oil for oil change with filter change
 
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