• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TC250 CARB Update kit

ray_ray

ray_ray

Mini-Sponsor
I'm still in mechanic mode here (as apposed to riding mode) due to this different bike I have now ... And sort of grasping at straws now ... I don't really think the CARB is the problem now but I got nothing better to do currently ...

Here are the parts to the CARB kit Husky sells for these bikes ... I've got a JDjetting kit in the bike and I guess it helps but this bike will not start, hot or cold without numerous kicks ...

Has anyone actually tried this kit with success?

The items in bold below are not in the JDkit ... Not sure what the OBENR needle is about either ...

Can anyone say these parts actually fixed their hard starting bike?

8A0098186 Main jet 180
8A00A4624 Idle jet 40
8000H3009 Jet needle OBENR
8000H3174 Cap drain
8000H3173 Hot starter valve kit
8A00H2025 Pump jet 50
 
The carb update kit helped my '10 TC. I can't recall exactly, but I think I went with an even smaller pilot (35 maybe). I found the most important things in making my bike start within a few kicks (consistently) was fuel screw adjustments (it was very sensitive to fuel screw settings) and ALWAYS kicking from TDC or one click below with a steady, firm, kick all the way through... NO short stabbing like a 2-stroke. I put a quick adjust fuel screw on mine and found I would have to tweak it about 1/8 to 1/4 turn for every 10 degrees F change in ambient.
 
Thanks and I've got a 40 pilot in it now and maybe I need to keep milking it downward to the 35 range ...

And, I've thought the same thing about that fuel screw .. I've been just closing it off and then opening it 1/8 of a turn for each 5-10 kicks or so till it starts ... But the next time, maybe it starts, maybe not ...

What about that hot-start kit in the intake manifold on the right side of the engine? Did that help any?

Are you getting any kickback from the kicker? This thing is like a 2T from the '70s ...

krieg said:
The carb update kit helped my '10 TC. I can't recall exactly, but I think I went with an even smaller pilot (35 maybe). I found the most important things in making my bike start within a few kicks (consistently) was fuel screw adjustments (it was very sensitive to fuel screw settings) and ALWAYS kicking from TDC or one click below with a steady, firm, kick all the way through... NO short stabbing like a 2-stroke. I put a quick adjust fuel screw on mine and found I would have to tweak it about 1/8 to 1/4 turn for every 10 degrees F change in ambient.
Click to expand...
 
ray_ray said:
Thanks and I've got a 40 pilot in it now and maybe I need to keep milking it downward to the 35 range ...

And, I've thought the same thing about that fuel screw .. I've been just closing it off and then opening it 1/8 of a turn for each 5-10 kicks or so till it starts ... But the next time, maybe it starts, maybe not ...

What about that hot-start kit in the intake manifold on the right side of the engine? Did that help any?

Are you getting any kickback from the kicker? This thing is like a 2T from the '70s ...
Click to expand...
I don't own the bike anymore (the new owner is Water Racer), so I'm going on 2 year old memory. But if I recall correctly, it would kickback hard if the fuel screw was too far out... rich pilot. The carb kit includes a hot start plunger that is modified from the original. If I recall correctly, the newer plunger is longer and allows less air to bypass. I rigged mine up with a bar mounted hot start lever and limited the pull distance of the lever with a ty-rap. In my opinion, the key to getting good starting is the fuel screw settings, a leaner pilot, and the TDC kicking.
 
I will chime in here since I have the bike now. The fuel adjustment screw has been stuck so I have never been able to adjust it. Just finished working with it to get about a half turn. I have never had the carb apart to see what is in it. It almost always starts with in 3 kicks cold. If it does not start first kick hot and it try's to kick back a little I use the hot start lever and that usually works. Another trick is use hot start lever and a few very slow kicks to push out the gas. It is a little harder to do hot starts on 90 degree days which means it is a little richer.
So Ray-Ray, I would say if yours is kicking back it may be to rich.
I am thinking a 4t is the opposite of a 2t on the fuel screw, turn it in to lean it?
 
Check your Valve clearences are 100% spot on. I had loads of problems starting mine but adjusting clearences made it much better for some strange reason.
 
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