Followed the instructions in the manual for the repack, by the instructions the tube with the holes in it that the packing goes around should come out. Well needless to say I can't get it out! It kinda looks like the rivets at the other end of the canister need to come out. Is this what needs to happen or am I doing something wrong? I guess I could try and slide the new packing in around the tube. I've repacked fmf spark arrestor silencers before and the tube came out when I pulled it apart. This is the stock WR silencer though. Any info greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
250-500cc 2009 WR 300 silencer repack
- Thread starter redbone
- Start date
Those 4 rivets need to be removed as they secure the core to the canister. I replaced the rivets with some button head screws for future ease of use. You do not need to remove the 4 button head screws at the end of the canister holding the end cap on.
I was not able to get the o-ring back onto the end of the core, so I omitted it and no leaks. You may have better luck.
I was not able to get the o-ring back onto the end of the core, so I omitted it and no leaks. You may have better luck.
BikeSDP
Husqvarna
AA Class
I ripped into my 300 stock silencer today and was pleasantly surprised that the packing wasn't that saturated with oil at 14 hours. I know I was jetted a bit fat during the first few hours while tracking down Mikuni jets. Any recommendation on packing material? It's kind of an odd size (about 10"x19"). I was looking at the Moose offering here, but it's a bit short.
PC, I know you're not running the stock silencer any longer, but I managed to get that o-ring back on the inlet using some patience, silicone spray lube and a putty knife. I ended up replacing the rivets I drilled out with new rivets.
PC, I know you're not running the stock silencer any longer, but I managed to get that o-ring back on the inlet using some patience, silicone spray lube and a putty knife. I ended up replacing the rivets I drilled out with new rivets.
motosapiens
Husqvarna
A Class
redbone;90401 said:
I might try to replace the rivots with little screws. we'll see how it works. OTOH, those screws are always a bit of a pain to get back in on other mufflers.
i tested at 94db at china hat, which is the LOI limit for the isde qualifier, so i'll probably repack shortly before idaho city, just to be on the safe side.