• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2009 TE250 low RPM stalling

H

hoffa509

Husqvarna
AA Class
I did a ride this weekend and the bike started to stall at low RPM. Power and response when on the gas was fine. I thought the idle might need to be adjusted but it was fine. The bike would idle at the correct RPM for a while and then die. During the ride, in the tight turns when I got off the gas it would did if I did not manually keep the RPMs up. I did recently adjust the valves. I thought it might be the gas tank vent but there did not seem to be a pressure issue when I removed the gas cap.
Also, on a separate issue, over the last few months the bike does not want to go into Neutral from idle. If I raise the RPM a little it will slip in. I appreciate any feedback.
 
Raise the idle. I raised my 2008 TE250 about 200RPM and it took care of a lot of the stalling and flameout issues.
 
Raising the idle helped my 2009 TE250 as well. Now that I've installed a JD Tuner, flameouts are nearly non-existent.
 
I had the same trouble with my 2008 te250. I messed with the idle screw, and screwed it up after awhile. Bill at Bills motorcycles + put it on the computer and fiddled some stuff I didn't know about and also raised the idle to 2,000. I does pretty well now. He said that the idle screw should only be turned in very small increments, and that I likely confused the system. I haven't touched it since he set things. Also he told me that after starting the bike, turn off the cold start dealyo and let it run for 5 min so it can settle in. Even still it just stops running during this period occasionally. But I just restart and don't rev until it's warm then go ride with no problems. It should be said, I do not have the power up and still use the O2 sensor, and don't use the "race map," just stock minus that cannister and throttle stop. Soon I will "unplug" it and get a fmf q4 and probable a JD remap deal if needed. I currently have 770 hours and probably 3,ooo + miles (speedo wire was severed for a while). Love this bike except the weight. I handles great with good power for this novice.
 
Hello. My bike is doing the same thing. It is a 09 TE250. Has cat, O2 sensor, throttle stop and re-gearing to 12-50 teeth sprockets. It runs fine at middle throttle but wants to die as soon as it comes to idle. It is at shop right now but they can't figure out why it's doing this. Should I just purchase either power commander or JD tuner? Which would be best? Thanks in advance for info
 
First video is my bike idling and dying. I eventually got around to pulling the fuel injector and spraying it with carb cleaner, supply side most importantly. Second video is right after cleaning the fuel injector.




 
Also, check the intake manifold, if it is cracked and sucking air, the bike will die at idle from being too lean but it will run better with throttle applied.
 
So I have checked everything and also had bike in shop. The shop remapped computer and changed fuel pump. The bike runs really well but still stalls coming to an idle. He thinks a programmer like the Power Comander may fix issue but I'm kind of getting over paying money for no results. Do you or anyone else think the power commander will have a better effect than what this shop could do?
 
Check your spark plug gap. If it is too wide and there's the least little bit of weakness in your stator, the spark wont jump a wide gap.

Since the gap size has a direct affect on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.

A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
 
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