• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2006 tc 250 stator problems help with diagnostic

S

Steamroller

Husqvarna
Hey guys,

New here and calling on you experienced guys for help. Been through a lot with this bike and I'm at the point of giving up. This is my first bike and everything I know about it I have learnt from researching on here. Have dealt with a lot of issues from oil drain plug being jb welded to the case, PO stripped the case and the plug. Installed and heli coil and new plug, grit and grime in the bottom of the case after I drained the oil, changing kick starter shaft, oil filter that looked so old I could crumble it with my fingers. Valve cover vent being haywire onto the block to stop it from falling out.

Been having a lot of trouble with my 2006 tc 250 with Athena big bore kit new to me about a month ago.
On my first ride I let it warm up started riding it around and after about 5 minutes it bogged out and died, after that it would not start until it cooled down. Initially I thought it would be clogged jets from sitting all winter.

I kept kicking and kicking and kicking so much that the bottom of my foot became bruised. I kicked until the kick starter shaft broke right in half. And then my day was done.

Took the bike back home, removed carb, took it completely apart and cleaned out everything. Put it back together tried the bike again with a new battery for the added on e start, started up perfect and then after 5 minutes bogged out and died.

New spark plug, checked valves all in spec. Re cleaned the carb, replaced the leaking intake manifold that had the runner separating from the metal. New air filter. Still bogs out and dies once hot.

This led me to believe it was electrical

Warmed it up in the garage until it died, pulled the cap off and threw my old plug in it, cranked over and no spark.

Left it for 5 minutes tried it again and spark was back, plugged the cap back into the plug that was in the block, boom she fired right up.

Let it die again tried once more removing The cap and old spark plug, and once again no spark.



So I have no spark once it gets hot.

Looking to find out if I should be changing my stator? regulator? and or coil?
My knowledge is pretty limited and diagnosing is kind of hard when you don't know what is what.

In my diagnosing I pulled on the plug wire and pulled it right out of the cap, I called halls and they said a new coil does not come with the cap and when you order a new cap the wire sort of screws into the cap. My cap doesn't seem to have any threads inside of it, almost looks like a reverse punch tip and a hole in the middle where the wire goes into.

Halls service said there is one wire going to the coil that should have 12 volts constant when starting and running. There are fins on either side of my coil and then on little electrical connector male sticking out with a brown/white wire going into it. I tested that wire and it didn't break 1 volt and then when running was at -0.05v

They gave me a few test for resitistance on the stator one being Black red tracer-red white tracer 12.7 ohms +- 15%. I got around 30 ohms. This was for the exciter circuit I believe?

There were too other tests yellow to ground 0.65 +- 15%, which I got 0 on both of my 2 yellow wires coming out of the stator

And yellow to white 0.16 +-15%, which I don't know where this white wire is but it's not coming out of the stator.

Coming out of my stator I have a connector with 2 yellow wires, and another connector with a red/black red tracer/red white tracer/green



Any help or feedback will be greatly appreciated, I'm in Canada and halls is the easiest place to get parts and with the dollar right now the $320 stator works out to $400+ cad I don't want to waste this money if I don't have too. If it does need it though I don't mind buying it, the regulator is $60 usd and the coil is $30 usd.

I do not know how to diagnose the regulator at all.

Thanks guys and gals, steamroller.
 
I'm in Vancouver, there is a few shops around here but for how much they charge for parts I would think to diagnose it would be just as much as buying all the new parts
 
If you're anywhere near London, get in touch with Rob Lang, Lang's Offroad.

Great guy, and well versed in Husqvarna.

http://langsoffroad.com/

I would add that when my stator died, he had a used stator that saved me a lot of money.
 
There are 2 coil circuits in the stator. The yellow wires are the AC generator circuit and the other ones are for the exciter/pickup coil. The pickup is what generates the spark through the cdi. If you check resistance through those 2 wires when cold then when it dies you should see a change in resistance if it is shorting when hot. There should be resistance when working but will then show very low reistance or full open when hot (gone bad). Check reistance when bike will run, then when it quites. If the change is not a lot then you are okay. Then i would move onto the ignition coil. I bet it is the pickup coil in the stator though. Its the only place that gets hot. I am in Campbellford if you are close i can have a look for you.

Forgot the other 2 wires (green and white?) They are the trigger. A bit harder to test. You can test the resistance for in spec.
 
?So probe the plug for exciter circuit (red white tracer/black red tracer) while its connected together and the bike is running to check resistance when cold vs hot while running? And if the stator is bad resistance should decrease as it warms up and shorts?

The exciter wires as stated above were way out of there test not running and plug disconnected. In the service manual it states Black red tracer-red white tracer 12.7 ohms +- 15%. I got around 30 ohms.
 
Got the bike running again.
After ordering a new coil and regulator from halls I looked at the wiring diagram and noticed that neither of them will really effect spark stopping when the bike gets hot. When they came in the mail I installed them and still did not work. My theory was they were only $30/$60 where the stator was $280 so I would try them first. Oh well wasted $100

I then called halls to get a new stator, boom they were now on back order in Europe and no one in North America has one. No good, have to pre pay and then wait for something that could take a month or 6.

So resulted to eBay got a used stator off a 2005 tc250 which I confirmed with halls would work. Got it in the mail a few days later. First test was exciter circuit (black-red/red-white) boom 26.7 ohms. Still way out of speck. Go back to bike check the one that was on there boom 26.7 ohms. Now I panick because they are both out of the fsm specs and are the same. Still slap the newer one on and boom bike works, doesn't die after a few minutes anymore. I can chalk this up as the exciter circuit most have been able to short itself and once the bike got hot enough the hot oil made its way into the generator then the stator would short. Having 2 stator a with resistance of 26.7 leads me to believe that the fsm is wrong as that's way out of the 12.7 +- 15%

Thought I would share as most people never reply again after they fix something on a forum so you never know what happened

Steamroller
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top