• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2000 WR360 - carb floatbowl hitting case?

BenM

BenM

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've got a 2000 WR360, but just recently swapped in a 2000 WR250. The 360 motor has a slight crack on the top of the clutch side case right where the kickstart shaft runs (not related to the carb hitting it), but the Mikuni TM always seemed to rub/hit on the top of the case.

Have the same issue after swapping in the 250 engine with a TMX carb. It seems like the airbox boot is forcing it into the top of the case very slightly, almost exactly like the 360 motor. Without the airbox boot connected the carb sits perfect on the intake manifold, but airbox boot isn't lined up properly. It's hell getting the airbox boot connected with the floatbowl rubbing the top of the case. I even removed the airbox from the subframe to get it to fit better and it didn't do much.

The shock is straight, subframe is straight, frame is fine and the airbox is good. The airbox boot is used for bunch of years, so maybe I can try getting another one, but I'm at a loss for what to check next.

Anyone else ever deal with this issue?
 
Mine slightly touches it, not sure how bad it is though as i only just got the bike and havent looked closely.
Quick question:
How common is the kickstart case crack problem? Is it caused by normal use over time or is it from violent erratic kicking?
 
The intake manifold has alignment notch to match the carb, so theres very little room for adjustment. But I'll give it a try. Thanks.
 
Before lectron i used a bit of innertube wedged under the float bowl, plenty of clearance now tho.
 
Same issue on both sizes for me. Riding on the engine case will foam the fuel so you may look into getting a spacer to move the reed block off of the cylinder a bit. I have one on my 250 and have no idea where Motorhead got it! Motosportz has one on his CR250, too, I believe.
 
i think they all do it, maybe age is involved but a lectron does fix the issue.

when i bought it, my 360 had a problem with the kickstarter skipping. upon taking it apart i found out the there was quite a bit of damage. the kick idler shaft was drifting forward in the case and the screw that holds the shaft pressed in to the block was backing out. this of course mauled the kick idler gear, the back of the clutch basket, and the small gear there as well. i believe the screw backing out was what started everything. it could have been fixed but i just used another set of cases. you can access the screw without splitting the cases
 
My Y2K360 is totally stock. Have always noticed the clearance or lack of, but never paid much attention to it. I have never experienced any performance issues as a result of the slight "rub".

image.jpg
 
Xriderdown said:
My Y2K360 is totally stock. Have always noticed the clearance or lack of, but never paid much attention to it. I have never experienced any performance issues as a result of the slight "rub".

View attachment 49505
Click to expand...
I did on my 2002 WR360 with an airstryker. Always surged until I got it off of the case. Was always messing with the float level and needle until then... probably just my luck.
 
flyingbob said:
I did on my 2002 WR360 with an airstryker. Always surged until I got it off of the case. Was always messing with the float level and needle until then... probably just my luck.
Click to expand...

Very interesting FB. I'll pay a little more attention to it now. Thanks for the heads-up!
 
justintendo said:
when i bought it, my 360 had a problem with the kickstarter skipping. upon taking it apart i found out the there was quite a bit of damage. the kick idler shaft was drifting forward in the case and the screw that holds the shaft pressed in to the block was backing out. this of course mauled the kick idler gear, the back of the clutch basket, and the small gear there as well. i believe the screw backing out was what started everything. it could have been fixed but i just used another set of cases. you can access the screw without splitting the cases
Click to expand...

Thanks very much, I will check that.
 
Yeah, that bike is crazy clean! More pics for sure!

Thanks for the info guys. I should be able to make a spacer at work for the intake manifold or maybe I'll just go with the Lectron.

About the kickstart issue. I bought the bike with the skipping issue, but paid nearly nothing for it since I noticed the case was cracked and there must have been a bigger issue. The guy I bought it from was 6'5", probably 250-260 and he could kick the 360 like a 125.

When I got it home, I pulled the left side cover and clutch basket to get a good look at it. The idler gear shaft (hardened steel) wasn't sitting flush in the case and had basically "ovaled" the hole until it cracked the case. The needle bearing was completely destroyed as well (#15, Pg. 7 of 2000 WR250/360 Parts Fiche) and the allen head retaining bolt the holds the shaft to the case had bent at approx. 30deg angle. Ended up patching it with shim stock, bearing compound and a new needle bearing, but fast forward to a few weeks ago and it skips when I go to kick it hard. I'll get some pics to show what I'm talking about.

Think after I fix the cases I'm going to add a chainsaw decomp valve like juicypips did or a manual decomp valve to make starting easier and less wear on the kicker.
 
That just raises more questions,! How did you not get mud on the wheels rolling it to the stand? Did you wash it there? Where you get the hose from?? Huh? What i like the most is the updated plastics tank etc looks sweet.
 
juicypips said:
That just raises more questions,! How did you not get mud on the wheels rolling it to the stand? Did you wash it there? Where you get the hose from?? Huh? What i like the most is the updated plastics tank etc looks sweet.
Click to expand...



These pictures are from a photo shoot my wife took to test out her new camera. Conditions and bike had to be perfect.

My wife bought it for me on my birthday from Bill's in 2001. I rode it for only two years then moved on to dual sport riding. I rarely took it out after that. Never got tired of looking at it in the garage though.Took it for a spin last summer and had a blast. I saw a body conversions on this site and went for it. Looks just like my TE510 now.....two modern classics in my opinion. It was my first Husky and I don't ever intend to get rid of it.
 
I have all the plastics to do the conversion and an ims big tank from my 250 (switched back to stock when i went lectron) but i prefer the feel of the older setup. it's a little narrower and lighter feeling.

i will admit say i like the looks of the newer stuff better though
 
Do you ride this thing or stick it int he lounge room???? Fully credit to you sir cos that is ONE CLEAN BIKE!!!
 
Just another quick question.

Was running through the 250-360 Parts cross-reference EXCEL sheet and noticed the airbox boot part # changed from 98 to 99. The same time the cylinder powervalve setup changed from the long rectangular cover on the clutch side to the squarish cover on the stator side.

I'm going to order the correct air boot and see if it will fit better.
 
BenM said:
Just another quick question.

Was running through the 250-360 Parts cross-reference EXCEL sheet and noticed the airbox boot part # changed from 98 to 99. The same time the cylinder powervalve setup changed from the long rectangular cover on the clutch side to the squarish cover on the stator side.

I'm going to order the correct air boot and see if it will fit better.
Click to expand...

The 250 stuff changes in 1999 because it was a new engine for the 250. The 360 stuff stayed the same until the end of the run for it. Be sure when you are looking at parts to check the top of the page and avoid 360 only pages.
 
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