• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc 1994 Wxc 360 Maintenance Questions

S

STV1991

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi all, I recently bought a very low hour 1994 WXC 360. I gotta say I really like this bike a lot more than I thought I would. It appears as if these are pretty rare bikes as I am finding out. The bike didn't run clean when I bought it but I upgraded to a Lectron carb and now the bike runs absolutely amazing. I still find it hard to believe how much that carb has transformed the bike.

My questions: I ride the upper Midwest. The season is pretty much over for me. I want to give this bike a real good maintenance workover this winter. What should I be looking at doing? Suspension? It appears as if the linkage has grease fittings. Bearings? What is a good transmission fluid to use? Power valve? I can't seem to find a service manual for this bike. I've looked all over the internet and even called the original dealer where the bike came from(yes, they are still open. They said they only sold 2 of these bikes). Suggestions?


One thing I have noticed that I'd like to remedy is that after the bike sits for a week or so, when I first put it into gear it's a hard shift like I'm not using the clutch at all. The rest of the day it's back to normal. Only after it sits awhile this happens. I'm thinking this is pretty hard on the drivetrain and since parts don't seem to be readily available I want to keep this thing together. So, any and all suggestions to keep this bike running, riding, & shifting good for the next few years would be greatly appreciated.

My main bike is a 2010 KTM 300 XCW but this 360 really has me addicted to the sheer low end grunt. It's a blast!!


Any good parts sources? Any place to find a service manual? What did this bike sell as in other countries so that I could look for parts elsewhere??

Thanks guys...
 
I have had a number of these and still have 2
the torque on the bottom is the joy of these
use a good chassis grease on the fittings on the suspension, ask the local dealer what they use
on the clutch when they sit it pushes the oil out of the fiber plates so to say, pull in the clutch put it in gear and use the kicker to pull oil in before starting it
the power valve works off the crank and rarely needs adjusting
to set it up for storage for the winter, if you can a warm area is better, like a heated basement, but most important is drain the carb, put some WD-40 in the fuel inlet
all that said lets see some pics of your find
 
on the service manual
the owners manual is VERY inclusive
the 360 ran 1992-2002
the major differences were the 92 power valve and exhaust outlet were changed in 93
93 and 94 were basically the same
plastic changes were 95 and 96 sort of unique but won't fit a 94 without a lot of changes
95 saw the switch to Brembo brakes but kept the Showa suspension
97 saw the porting change
then more plastic and frame changes to keep up with the fashion of sales
a 93 manual will work for yours
also the basic engine did not change so any engine related shop manual will give you the basics on your engine

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-...m46069adb07:m:mv0jfPtT82sE2lhJnVk609w&vxp=mtr
this is an 02 engine manual
 
as said above, try to find an owners manual on ebay or the like..they are basically a full shop manual.

you have a great machine, take good care of it! these are back when the italian huskies were really built, even compared to the later ones. getting the suspension sent out and set up for your weight and riding style will really complete the bike.
we need some pics too, the early 90s hoosks are some of the best looking of any year...swedish, italian or austrian, in my opinion.
 
Thanks guys for the info. I bought this from the original owner and it’s a low hour bike. It came with the original sales receipt, 1994 Husqvarna brochures, and some NOS parts, the best being NOS fenders, radiator shrouds, number plates, and headlight number plate. The price was also very reasonable so I was willing to take a chance on it. I didn’t realize how rare these are until after buying it and doing some research. I was afraid it may be junk but I really really like the bike. Surprisingly so.

I just want to perform some maintenance on it and keep it running as well as it currently is for the next few years. What are you guys using for gear or transmission fluid?

I will post pics when I’m able. The bike is kept up at our family cabin so I’ll get some pics next time I’m up there.
 
i use rotella t6 diesel oil...but any jaso ma rated motorcycle or gear oil will work fine. i drain every 6 hours or so of operation
 
Thank you for the info. As I go through the bike this upcoming winter/spring I’ll get some pics up for you who are interested
 
STV1991 said:
My questions: I ride the upper Midwest. The season is pretty much over for me. I want to give this bike a real good maintenance workover this winter. What should I be looking at doing? Suspension? It appears as if the linkage has grease fittings. Bearings? What is a good transmission fluid to use? Power valve? I can't seem to find a service manual for this bike. I've looked all over the internet and even called the original dealer where the bike came from(yes, they are still open. They said they only sold 2 of these bikes). Suggestions?.
Click to expand...

Powervalve:hardly ever touched after 15 years of owning a 95 WR360, only once have l adjusted it after a poster kindly showed how to make a homemade tool to measure the height.
Bearings: like everything, lift the seal off the bearings and add more grease, good idea to regrease the lower shock linkages.
Carb: Like 2Premo said, drain the carb and spray wd40 on the inlets.
Plastics: good clean and grab some plastics reconditioner - OEM plastics are hard to get these days and majority are largely brittle with UV exposure.
Brakes: Give them a good bleed before storing and l like to zip tie the lever to the bar to insure the system is pressurized so no air bubbles or moisture can enter the system.

Aside from that, the 360 is a very sturdy bike and if someone made an electric leg kit for one, l'd be riding mine more often than not :(
 
On the gear oil I use the Mobil 1 0w-40 with excellent results. Minimal clutch drag and nice crisp shifts. Was using Rotella 5w-40 before and that also worked pretty good. Some guys swear by ATF also. I havent tried it yet tho.
 
Couple more questions: I bought a NOS clutch lever but now I’m looking for an OEM new or compatible replacement front brake lever. Bike is stock. I ordered one that looked like it would fit but didn’t. The original owner cut the end balls off the levers to clear the hand guards and I’d like to put stock levers back on and hand guards that will clear the levers.

Also, what is a good source for front and rear bearings & brake pads? Are some brands better than others? I don’t mind paying a little extra for a higher quality product.

Last thing for now: I’d like to have someone go through the front/rear brakes. Are rebuild kits still available for these bikes?

Thanks much.
 
Does your '94 have Nissens or Brembos? If I recall correctly they're Nissens like my '92. The front caliper was used on many Japanese MX bikes from the late 80's to mid 90's. I bought some genuine (after installing 2 Moose sets only to have them leak) Yamaha seals from an early 90's YZ250, work perfectly. The rear caliper is the same as an '86 Suzuki DR200 front caliper, also worth mentioning that the caliper slide bolt that tends to wear out and cause rear caliper bind is shared with the DR200, $10 part that made a world of difference on my bike. Congrats are the new acquisition.
 
Thanks for the info. I’ll be working on the bike after the first of the year. I’m sure I’ll have more questions for you guys. Looking forward to throwing some gravel next summer with this thing
 
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