1988 WRlc 430 SM

[la_pierre]

Hi everybody, my nick-name is la_pierre, i'm French (sorry for my bad English), my first motorcycle was an 1987 CR 430 and i'm falling in love of this motorbike.
It will be restored soon.
At the moment, I'm building an 430 WRlc converted in supermoto and i have some questions.
it's built from different parts.

-Frame: 430 WR 88
-Engine: 88 WR 430 (6 speeds )
-Swingarm: 90 or 91 HVA 510 TE (for rear disk brake) bolt-on
-Rear disk brake master cylinder and caliper: 94 HVA 250 WR, caliper is bolt-on on swingarm but frame need modification by welding supports for properly fitting master cylinder . 430 WR 88 rear brake pedal shall be modified too.
-Rear Wheel HUB with torque absorber: KTM 660 SM, just the disk side spacer shall be modified (shorter)
-Front Hub: KTM 125 SX 07
-Rear Rim: 5x17" Behr black
-Front Rim: 3,5x17" Behr black
-Rear disk brake: Husaberg 220mm
-Rear wheel spindle: HVA 610 TE
-Rear shock: original Ohlins
-Front fork: WP MX 48 from 08 KTM 525, bolt-on (except dust seal must be slightly modified or changed)

Here some pictures of engine dismantling and frame pre-mounting.


Clutch side crank oil seal is on the wrong way, isn't it?




To adjust properly the rear hub, with a standard six speeds gear box of 430 WR 88, witch front and rear sprocket shall I used for a 80% road used?

thanks!

 

[la_pierre]

Hi, work of this week....
manufacturing and welding of rear brake disk master cylinder bracket.

pre-mounting


Welded


and a very special tool to pull out crank bearings :-)


next step, order bearings and full gasket set, close the engine and send frame for painting.

Otherwise, i'm thinking than with the original 6 speeds 430 WR's gear box, a final transmission with a 15 teeth's front sprocket and a rear sprocket with 40 teeth will be fine. Does anybody can confirm me?
The ratio calculation with 17" rim and 160/70 tire give me approximately 152 KM/H at 7000 rpm. Does the 430 WR rev so high?

Thank

 

[oldbikedude]

Hello La pierre, interesting build you have there. I cannot help with your final gearing but I will be watching your build with interest. I have the same frame & motor as you.

 

[justintendo]

ive never dual sported such a bike but im thinking your gearing choice will be a good starting point, maybe a bit tall. try it and see how it goes. you will likely need the 15 counter and im sure the 15 will help the chain last longer

 

[Michel Dufayard]

Middle east of France, c'est quoi, Dijon, Besançon ?

 

[la_pierre]

Grenoble.

 

[la_pierre]

another question: Wich kind of painting shall i used to paint engine case, cylindre and head to obtain the same as original?

 

[oldbikedude]

I used Duplicolor Ford semi gloss black engine enamel that was referred to me by another member. It looks perfect. I have had good luck with durability but it's not as tuff as the stock paint. Here is my engine rebuild thread. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/l-c-430-right-crank-bearing.27095/page-2

 

[justintendo]

the stock paint is super tough. ive had good luck with that paint as well

 

[2premo]

try a 17 front might save you some trouble with the rear
my stock 430 XC with 15 52 went 106mph or so did not have a way to check it
but passed a Honda XR600r and he said i was clearly over 100
but i don't think they rev that high
recall below 6000

 

[2premo]

16 12 693 08 is the factory number for 17 tooth countershaft sprocket

 

[2premo]

by the way if you want more power for your project port the transfer ports and match the cases and gaskets
the result is amazing, pulls more like a 500

 

[huskylove]

17 40 is very very tall for any supermoto. I would try 15 40 at first.

 

[2premo]

they also make a 16
16 12 693 07
but his rpm was above the 430 revs from his comment

 

[la_pierre]

hi guys, thanks for comments and painting code.
I probably make a mistake in my spreadsheet... because with 15 / 52 and 120/90x18 rear wheel, i'm far from 106mph (170 km/h).
At 6000 rpm It's near 107 but kmh... 66,5mph
I'll check it!

For the beginning I thinking just matched cylinder sleeves with port and matched the casing with the gasket.
I'm thinking it's enough for my small arms. :-D

 

[huskylove]

Well he wont be cruising 90mph and if he is trying to sustain that speed he has the wrong bike lol

 

[la_pierre]

Well he wont be cruising 90mph and if he is trying to sustain that speed he has the wrong bike lol

lol, this is not the goal ;-)

 

[la_pierre]

I found my mistake on spreadsheet.... I count only one time the tyre side for circumference.
so @6000rpm with 15/40 and 160/60x17 > 154,8km/h (~95,7mph)
@6500rpm with 15/40 and 160/60x17 > 167,7km/h (~104 mph)

compared with original ratio:
so @6000rpm with 15/52 and 140/90x18 > 130,1km/h (~80,8 mph)
@6500rpm with 15/52 and 140/90x18 > 140,9km/h (~87 mph)
162,6km/h (~101 mph) @7500.

it's seems not so far from reality?

I'll purchasing an 15 countershaft sprocket and a 40 rear sprocket for the beginning.

thanks

 

[la_pierre]

hello guys, I've a question concerning swing arms seals. What kind of seals are used from either side of needles bearing?

My swing arm comes from an 510 TE 1990 or 1991 but looks exactly like at the older models (2 or 4 stroke) but seals are ruined and I cannot be sure for dimensions.
Apparently the fitting seems to be two Orings (around 22x3mm) inside and two square seals outside (around 22x28x4mm).
Does anybody can confirm me the proper mounting?

thank!

 

[la_pierre]

Other thing, perhaps, some of you, will be interested :-)

I recently purchased a bearings removal tools kit that I want to present you. It seems to be specific's Piaggio tools for old vespa's engine.
It's particularly adapted for a bearing that shall been removed from a blind casing.



for use it, imagine that the bearing is in a blind casing, like the bearing of the primary shaft of ignition side.
Push the adapted threaded tool through the bearing then put the adapted clutch, the big nut, put inside the threaded tool the axle and finally the screw.

Then tightened the screw until the threaded tool don't moving inside the bearing. it expanding the end of the threaded tool to block it in the bearing.