• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1987 wr430 new lease on life

silverstreakNZ

silverstreakNZ

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Decided I needed a single shock swede .
Here's some ramblings in which ever order they come to mind
30 year old bike for my 30th birthday
This will be my main bike . Sold the 02 gasgas ec300 I've had for 5 years . Awesome bike . Pretty much went everywhere with no fuss . Never touched the motor and it still goes great .
Saw this advertised on here and Craigslist .
Total cost to get it in my possession was about 2.5 weeks wages in my currency
No offence to Tony in anyway intended about any bad points on the bike . It's a 30 year old bike and it's how it is .
20170903_131044.jpg
20170903_131222.jpg
Reasons I bothered dragging this one half way round the world . Condition and price matched my goals for a rider bike . Up tite pipe . Suzuki front end fitted which meant my 49mm twin chamber showa conventional would fit
 
Firat things first . Off with the forks . On with the 49s .
They fitted right in . The front wheel had 20-18 mm reducers in the bearings . Took them out and bearings fit right onto the 20mm axle . Needs spacers for sides made obviously
Disk on the husky wheel is in good condition and appears 2-3 mm bigger than stock rm . It'll work with a touch of grinding . Have a late kx caliper with bigger pistons than the rm one . New style crf master cylinder .
Undid the shock bolt to lower the rear wheel to a more xc location . Tipped the rear guard up a bit .
20170903_154947.jpg
Now you get the rough idea . Then I pulled it to bits . Needs bigger springs at both ends and shock leghtened .
When I undid the top shock bolt the wheel can't drop very far as the shock hits the linkage . Did the xc and cr have a different linkage or lower shock mount to the wr ?

Does this shock look like it's got much more length to give ? Can we shorten the alloy bit or do I need a different shock to achieve xc rest travel ?
20170903_175758.jpg
 
Also got a magura hydro clutch setup . And may fit some torq drive clutch plates in future as the stock plates aren't that great . May fit a rekluse in future . See how I feel
 
i think you will really like the bike once its dialed in. really good chassis and super comfortable. the 430 will run well but they really shine when the jetting is close. if you can make the hydro clutch work the bike will be even better. just a great bike for high speed riding.
something cool about the last swede husky, the furthest they got before it ended..
 
silverstreakNZ said:
Firat things first . Off with the forks . On with the 49s .
They fitted right in . The front wheel had 20-18 mm reducers in the bearings . Took them out and bearings fit right onto the 20mm axle . Needs spacers for sides made obviously
Disk on the husky wheel is in good condition and appears 2-3 mm bigger than stock rm . It'll work with a touch of grinding . Have a late kx caliper with bigger pistons than the rm one . New style crf master cylinder .
Undid the shock bolt to lower the rear wheel to a more xc location . Tipped the rear guard up a bit .
View attachment 82427
Now you get the rough idea . Then I pulled it to bits . Needs bigger springs at both ends and shock leghtened .
When I undid the top shock bolt the wheel can't drop very far as the shock hits the linkage . Did the xc and cr have a different linkage or lower shock mount to the wr ?

Does this shock look like it's got much more length to give ? Can we shorten the alloy bit or do I need a different shock to achieve xc rest travel ?
View attachment 82428
Click to expand...


on the 87 well most WR shocks there is an aluminum spacer
since I have never actually seen one apart I am not your expert
is the aluminum piece on the shaft removable?
 
so question, what year Suzuki front end?
looks similar to the Showa 93 front end without the lower leg extension


why are the pictures rotated???

,
IMG_0974.JPGIMG_0975.JPG
 
The aluminum spacer should come right off and, yes, you can shorten it a bit. Leverage there is about 4:1, so if you shorten it 2mm the rear will extend 8mm more. Of course, make sure there's room in the linkage for it to drop that much.
 
Picklito said:
The aluminum spacer should come right off and, yes, you can shorten it a bit. Leverage there is about 4:1, so if you shorten it 2mm the rear will extend 8mm more. Of course, make sure there's room in the linkage for it to drop that much.
Click to expand...
The alloy bit in the picture mates nicely to the top out rubber in the seal head . If I remove it completely won't it mash half the piston into the top out rubber ?
Hence I said shorten it . And or replace it with a thick washer
 
silverstreakNZ said:
The alloy bit in the picture mates nicely to the top out rubber in the seal head . If I remove it completely won't it mash half the piston into the top out rubber ?
Hence I said shorten it . And or replace it with a thick washer
Click to expand...


what is the length of the aluminum piece?
 
Not in a position to measure it right now . But can roughly scale it from shaft width ?
Sorry if previous reply seems blunt or angry . Neither was intended =)
 
Well this bit doesn't come off without the tools to hold the shaft . Will go see suspension guru tomorro night . He has documents that will show if there was a different one available
20170904_182236.jpg
 
If you have a soft jaw vice you can clamp the clevis in the vice, and use a wrench at the black square "nut" with the bleed holes in it. Then... the spacer will be removable. I think once you have it in your hands you'll see what can be done. Also, when I said that the spacer comes off, I didn't mean to leave it out on re-assembly. As you said in post #9 you need a surface for the top-out rubber to top out against.
 
Suspension getting taken care of .
Only other thing I am struggling to find is an air filter cage .
Anyone got one lying round they don't need and feel like posting it . And any other parts you think I may need . Cheers
 
silverstreakNZ said:
Suspension getting taken care of .
Only other thing I am struggling to find is an air filter cage .
Anyone got one lying round they don't need and feel like posting it . And any other parts you think I may need . Cheers
Click to expand...


I have one laying around somewhere PM me
 
Cheers 2premo
04 kx250f clutch friction plates are direct fit . The Id is the same . All drive lugs fit perfect . The od of the frictions material circle is 2 mm smaller . So 1mm each side .
It'd still work as the lugs positively locate it .
The kx frictions were thicker than the stock frictions .
Still tossing up going to kxf torq drive plates or just fitting steel driven disks to this clutch .
Kxf steels do not fit . About 1 whole tooth smaller .
The kxf rekluse would work as someone else stated .
Rms 6040
Has anyone every had their own steel clutch plates water jet cut ? Do they need to be tempered or and special steel . Just a whole lot cheaper than getting a steel clutch from hva .

Can someone tell me how far apart the top and bottom chain rollers are on the alloy bit the cr and xc had . I'll make a new one .
 
So the 87 and 88 parts manual say everything has 5 clutch springs . My bike has a 6 bolt clutch .the engine number and frame number both add up to 87 wr 430.
Is the parts book wrong or has some else fitted the 6 bolt one .
Can anyone comment on what the 6 bolt clutch was common to as far as 2t and 4t and years ?
My clutch springs have orange paint on them . Any comments on that ?
 
Clutch pictures for anyone interested .
Od of husky disk 133.8 2.4mm thick
Od of kxf 250 disk 132.3 2.8mm thick
So there's 1.5 mm total . .75 mm each side 20170910_135810.jpg 20170910_135750.jpg
 
silverstreakNZ said:
So the 87 and 88 parts manual say everything has 5 clutch springs . My bike has a 6 bolt clutch .the engine number and frame number both add up to 87 wr 430.
Is the parts book wrong or has some else fitted the 6 bolt one .
Can anyone comment on what the 6 bolt clutch was common to as far as 2t and 4t and years ?
My clutch springs have orange paint on them . Any comments on that ?
Click to expand...


the parts book is off for sure
orange is normal
the 87 on all models used he same clutch, the 250's had lighter springs as I recall
 
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