• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1986 WR400LC , Im doing a restore need guidance

G

germantrader10

Husqvarna
Hi Folks been snooping around this site for about 3 months now and my Husky has been getting butchered little by little every day after work. I have just ordered a tank from husky dog in Canada as min had a huge gash in it.

Basically I bought this bike took the carb off cleaned it, reinstalled i, added some fuel on an external tank, put it in neutral and gave it a few kicks nothing.

took sparkplug out checked for spark almost all the wires are cut or have been cut connectors duct taped and now low and behold it did have spark.

Put plug back in gave a few kicks on last kick backfired and blew the silencer off!
 
Sorry i hit return and it posted before i was done. Anyways after the silencer blew off it isn't doing anything even though it has fuel and spark. I can hear how loud the carb is sucking in air so compression must be good.

Finally I did also need to find a source for a good brake reservoir and line and also a brembo caliper seal kit a fork rebuild kit and a clutch and throttle cable for this 1986. I also need a intake manifold. Mine has seen better days. Thanks for any help!
 
Phil @ husqvarna-parts.com should be able to help you out with everything you listed.
 
Timing could be out if your backfiring or the plug is "fouled' and sparking intermittently. try a new plug first. old fuel can cause issues as well.
 
check the compression, dont go by the sound of air sucking into the carb..it could save you a big meltdown
 
I've had an '86 for about 20 years.

Regarding a backfire or kickback when starting, this can be very normal for an '86.
For most of it's life, my 400 has had the stock (Motoplat) ignition, I think that the guy I bought it from had pushed the ignition ahead a few degrees, which was somewhat common (at that time, most people buying a Husky were racing them). Anyway, a 'normal' starting kick-back is about like getting shot in the foot. A smaller friend of mine once fell off of the bike due to a kick-back. If I wasn't wearing motorcycle boots, it was not uncommon to ruin a pair of shoes (hole in the bottom), or if my foot slipped off of the kicker (after a few kick-backs, I learned to kick with the ball of my foot), the kicker could rip about a 4-inch tear in the leg of a pair of bluejeans. However, this "normal kick-back" was not loud. Being smarter now in my thirties than I was in my teens when I got the bike, I should probably have delayed the timing a few degrees for easier starting, at the cost of a little power (it's a relatively easy adjustment).
Also, if you have a stock Motoplat, the flywheel is keyed, so your only real adjustment would be on the stator (also you would not have to worry about spinning the flywheel).

However, if you don't have a stock Motoplat (aftermarket might not be keyed), or the backfire is loud, then I would be much more concerned about timing. I've actually recently replaced my ignition with a Powerdynamo ignition. The bike starts a lot easier, but I've been having trouble with the flywheel spinning on me (Powerdynamo is not keyed, if I had it to do over again, I'd find an ignition that has a keyed flywheel). When the timing is way off, I get very loud backfires.

Also, on starting/running the bike...
The cylinder will foul up if you idle it too long. One time I let my dad ride the bike, when he stopped, he essentially let it idle for about 2 minutes before hitting the kill switch. After that starting the bike was something like an olympic event. It kicked back terribly when it would fire, and there were many unproductive kicks. I eventually replaced the spark plug and it started. You have to admit, with a .5mm gap, it doesn't take much to foul a spark plug, in fact, the guy I bought the bike from kept a spare plug and plug wrench in the tool kit, and it didn't take me long to figure out that this is a good idea. So, to make a long story short, when you do have it running, give it a good rev before you hit the kill switch at the end of a ride. Right now, if you're still kicking unproductively, go buy a new spark plug, gap it, spray a little gas directly in the cylinder, put the spark plug back in, say the 'no kick back' prayer, and give it a good hard kick.

When you get the intake off (you can buy an intake from HVA-Factory, only place I'm aware of that has them right now, though they are based in Europe), check your reed valves. As it happens, I recently replaced my reed valves, but the reeds were only worn on one side of the cage. The other side was in fairly good shape. If you have the same experience, let me know and I can mail you the reed that was not excessively worn. New reeds are only about $35 (Amazon.com, Boysen 616 reeds), but with everything else you're undoubtedly working on, keeping the reeds stock, at least for now may save you some trouble adjusting, or re-jetting the carbs.

Also, I agree with the prior comment, check compression and/or complete a leak-down test.
 
On the Intake manifold, earlier today I heard back from Rick at husqvarnaoutlet.com that he has a 2-piece intake gasket kit for $130.00 that fits the '86 WR 400.
It's a part I devoted some time to chasing a couple weeks ago. A couple sites have this listed, but he's only the second person I've heard back from indicating he actually had it (and I bought the 'last' one from the first guy who got back to me). Anyway, if you're still looking for a manifold, and don't want to pay/wait for overseas shipping, submit a parts request at Husqvarnaoutlet.com.
 
Til you get another rubber portion of the intake, my buddy use to use rubber cement, so he could keep riding.
He'd just gloop it all over the cracks...
 
I cant but think the whole kickback thing was a tuning error, ive never had a husky kick back at me?? backfires are for 490 yamahas...(standard fitment) as for fouling the plug at idle, pilot too rich, wrong plug or incompatible fuel oil mix. the old 240 I had idled for 20 minutes one day when I went over a short bank to help a guy and left it sitting on the track idling thinking I would only take a minute. it was fine.
bikes are weird sometimes:confused:
 
Surprize my 85/400 would try to break your leg/foot/ankle until I fitted the deco valve, timing was set as per manual.
Mates 88/400 is as docile as a lamb when kicking.

To Eric and anyone else who has flywheel spinning problems you should lap the flywheel on to the shaft with valve lapping paste.
This is recommended in the Husky workshop manuals.
Actually it's a good habit to get into with any older bike as it saves a lot of trouble.

I recently helped arrow an enduro and the other guys told me to turn off my 400 as it had been idling for hours and it shamed them on their moderns.
 
Thank you guys for all your input. Im a newbie with this bike and the motor. Im not a mechanic but a self taught weekend tinkerer. I managed to rebuild my 4.7l dodge motor a few weeks ago by myself from takeout to rebuild to install. Im sure if i can do that I can fix this motor. Problem I see is, I am not sure how the transmission functions and that has me reluctant to open it up. So instead, I took the whole bike apart for the rebuild, prior to mustering the courage to get in the motor.


Some thing I found:

The wiring had been cut soldered taped and glued. Complete mess.

The lower coolant valve on the case has wire twists around the bolts ?!?!?!

The clutch cable brake line and reservoir kill switch and throttle cable are junk.

The headlight fairing lamp and speedo cable where missing when I purchased the bike.

Is it the original speedo? See picture

Is the brake rotor shield aftermarket option. Is the original better? Its the picture that says DEVOL Engineering & Racing Equipment.

The exhausts is a slip on it just slid right of after the one bolt was removed. Any one know anything about this. There is a picture attached. It says Equalizer systems.

Who made these blue anodized hand savers and are there any plastics that go with it. see picture.

Some questions:

I wanted to have the swing arm front forks and the frame and various bits and pieces powder coated. I got a price for $425 for the lot. I doubt that inlcuded him prepping the pieces. What do i have to do in order to prep for powder coat. Do i have to sand it all down or just clean it. Even cleaning the grease and junk of the frame can take hours. I may just do a rustoleum job any advice?

The plastics are all there except the headlight one. They are all dirty, scuffed and abused (tbe). My dilemma here is, Do I sand, prime and paint. Do I sand and clear coat or do I sand and heatgun the lot?

What I learned so far:

I wast aware on how expensive these spare parts are on these bikes.

Whats on my list right now:

Prep plastics and frame for paint.... or whatever I decide ?!?

Rebuild Ohlin Rear Shock and the Forks ? Never done either one.

Ordering the parts im having trouble finding.


What Im having trouble finding:

Still the intake manifold

Petcock gasket

Brembo front brake rebuild kit.

Original brake fluid reservoir and line.



That is all I can think of now. Here are some pics of the takedown:

PS:If you spot them in the pictures, the other 2 bikes are next on the list, because the Husky is by far my favorite it got to go first!

a 1974 Yamaha 250 trial Bike needs the rust removed in tank and a carb cleaning.

and a

1987 KTM 500. Got it running after 20 minutes it sat as long as the Husky.15 years.


I Bought all three bikes of some oldtimer that never got to them and his kids weren't interested.



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Muffler not original and don't loose that plastic chain guard as they are gold.
When you get her finished you'll find it soooo nice to ride.:banana:
 
That's a long list of q's ol mate but all have answers.
down load a parts manual and a workshop manual. they are available.
I would seriously think about sending the engine without the cylinder and the clutch to a recommended engine man to strip and assess. im with you, I don't do gearboxes as there is always a "catch". ive rebuilt 20 car engines from 4's to 8's and they are pretty simple but a gearbox starts the sweat running....:banghead:

powdercoat is a total result. its thick, tuff and durable but its not easily repaired or replaced like paint. you must totally clean all grease and oil from EVRYWHERE as when its heated up before the powder goes on, grease in down tubes and frame drain holes runs out and stuffs the powdercoat:( so if you decide to powdercoat, steam clean, degrease extensively, remove all bearings and races from swingarm and headstem etc. and make sure its clean.
put old bolts into all threads and cover any stubs otherwise they will have 20 thou of hard paint on then that will be a bugger to remove or require a thread tap to allow the bolts to be screwed in. also think of earth spots and put a bolt and washer in there to leave them clear.

it is nice and easy to powdercoat, you take it in and you pick it up..... check that the price includes the sandblasting.

buy a heap of 6mm and 8 mm nylock nuts and all those problems are solved.

print the parts manual off and as you strip the bike check the right sized bolts are in the right spot. if they are still in good condition, keep them or else make a list of required bolts washers etc and buy them from the hardware.

good muffler, clean and repack it, use steel wool if there is no fiberglass around, should be fine. polish it for a some bling finish.

get some satin black etch primer and clean and paint the exhaust and all brackets etc.

the cables probably need replacing. check out Terrycables, I think they do replacements (I just used the one on it as they were ok.) flushed them with WD 40.

decide how much of a rider you want it to be. I left my plastics other than a good clean as its now done some tough rides and everything is looking "used" again. if its going into the loungeroom, go to town on the looks.....

Take good pics of the wiring etc as mine was the same and I resoldered new wiring from just outside the magneto and covered it all in white heatshrink. its been very waterproof.

managed to get all the lights and brake light going, just need to get a front brake switch.

Enjoy the build. be methodical and write down the order you rip it apart so you don't jump the gun fitting stuff up....:thumbsup:
 
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