• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1986 500xc resto

Itsadogslife

Husqvarna
AA Class
Picked up a 500xc a while bike at it. Supposedly ran but had a busted throttle cable. Was complete but suffered from bad wheel and suspension bushings. Started a while ago tearing it down to repair some of its problems.
 

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Any idea on how to get this busted bolt out of the frame. Drilled it out and tried an ez out and no luck. Is the insert threaded all the way thru the other side?
 

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Went the through bolt route on my 88 te510. I think it is necessary to drill through the frame pipe in order to connect them. The sub frame wouldn't reliably stay lined up until I bronze welded the four spots but that has the two mufflers/silencers and the rear hoop and has crashed a lot I think.

Fran
 
I ended up drilling out what was left from the other side. I plan on hellicoiling both sides. i believe the other side was supposed to have a bolt for the other side of the subframe and the expansion chamber top bracket. Still haven't been able to find an exploded parts diagram of the bike. Probably do some work on it tomorrow.
 
After I tore down the swing arm i discovered a crack in the swing arm. Probably going to reassemble as is and repair at a later date.
 

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After pressing out the bearing, I can now see the crack runs almost all the way thru from one side to the other. Trying to find a replacement swingarm. Anyone got any leads on one or one for sale?
 
My only hesitation, being off a 500 it might be more prone to being cracked. Being in Canada I don't have much option for a quick repair. In reality you would need to have both both ends machined and then weld them on the swing arm. Since I don't have access to my tig machine or my neighborhood machinist till summer, replacement of some sort is my only option.
 
The biggest problem with the aluminum swingarms is the chain tensioner bolts , they get froze in them, & that's real pain in the butt to fix. If you find a Ebay or the like used one, i'd make sure the bolts spin free, or your in for more headaches :banghead: .

Husky John
 
CR has a better feel on the peddle through out the travel, it stays the same all the way.
but
You would need a backing plate, brake stay and the wheel hub could be different too and so on.

When the bolts seize up i heat head and all red hot and let it cool down a bit and then spray oil.
Never broke a steel bolt in alum yet, wrenching 20+ years
 
I ended up drilling out what was left from the other side. I plan on hellicoiling both sides. i believe the other side was supposed to have a bolt for the other side of the subframe and the expansion chamber top bracket. Still haven't been able to find an exploded parts diagram of the bike. Probably do some work on it tomorrow.

parts manuals:
http://www.halls-cycles.com/we-sell-accessories-and--parts-catalog
or:
http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/parts_fiche

Progress on the bike looks good!

As far as stuck chain adjusters go, I have found that my battery powered impact driver is very effective at getting them moving, and it's nowhere near strong enough to break anything off (heat/etc as applicable). backing it all the way out and applying anti-sieze before putting the bolt back in is a good thing. You use the nut to set your depth, and can loctite the nut if that makes you feel better about using the anti-sieze.
 
parts manuals:
http://www.halls-cycles.com/we-sell-accessories-and--parts-catalog
or:
http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/parts_fiche

Progress on the bike looks good!

As far as stuck chain adjusters go, I have found that my battery powered impact driver is very effective at getting them moving, and it's nowhere near strong enough to break anything off (heat/etc as applicable). backing it all the way out and applying anti-sieze before putting the bolt back in is a good thing. You use the nut to set your depth, and can loctite the nut if that makes you feel better about using the anti-sieze.

I ended up getting another swing arm off ebay and getting it chemically dipped. Replaced all the bearing in back end of the bike. If I were to do it all again i would have replaced it with an 87 swing arm, shock and linkage. Ended up downloading manuals from hva factory.
Managed to get the exhaust back on the bike. Not really happy how the expansion chamber fit, but its on
IMG_1771.JPG
 
if you used the swinger from an 87-88, you would have to cut and reweld the dog bone mount on your frame.
 
I ended up getting another swing arm off ebay and getting it chemically dipped. Replaced all the bearing in back end of the bike. If I were to do it all again i would have replaced it with an 87 swing arm, shock and linkage. Ended up downloading manuals from hva factory.
Managed to get the exhaust back on the bike. Not really happy how the expansion chamber fit, but its on

So, to admit my ignorance, what do you mean by 'chemically dipped' (I mean I get the basics, but do you go to an electro-plater for this, or what? Also, do you apply any sort of clear-coat afterwards)?

As far as the exhaust goes, in my opinion, after the late 1970's, 2 cycle exhausts were built to performance needs and then crammed on the machine in whatever way they sort-of fit (applies to bikes, snowmobiles, etc). What you've got pictured looks good to me, once you get your tank and seat on there, it'll be tucked in pretty nicely.
 
I took the swing arm to the platers. Nitric acid bath removed any ferrous metal fasteners stuck in the aluminum. Any surface like welds or the bore for pivot bearings were coated with a sealer first Came back looking like new. Arm either needs to be clear coated or painted as its totally bare afterwards.
The expansion chamber fits ok, but as it sits now its touching a hose off the water pump and the kicker can rattle off the bottom seam. Its like its off a different year bike or just plain different model. Good enough for a quick test run but needs attention at a later date
 
in the first thread pic, the pipe looks like its been altered, cut and rewelded. could be why it doesnt line up. is your rubber kick start bumper still there? i know when they disappear the kicker tip will just touch the pipe. the hoses touching the pipe are common, one of the reasons i went with the silicone units and a dynoport pipe..much more room.
 
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