• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 Husky WR400 Stuck Swingarm Bolt

Husky-Nut

Husqvarna
AA Class
This is a first for me. :doh:

The bolt for the swing arm will not budge. :banghead:




I have been tapping it, flipping it, and adding PB Blaster for about 1-day with no luck. :censored:


I don't want to get crazy with the sledgehammer just yet - any advice? :oldman:

Different penetrating oil? Heat/torches? Hydraulic press? :excuseme:
 

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Been there, different materials, steel bolt , brass spacers, magnesium cases always makes for a problem. You could try DEEP Creep from Seafoam,
I've had good luck with this, much better then PB Blaster. If that don't work , get a forward bladed hack saw (see picture-far right)Hacksaws.jpg There's just enough room to cut the swingarm bolt near where the bolt pass thru the inside of the frame. You'll probably have to cut it on both sides.

Isn't as bad as it seems. I've done a couple this way...

Husky John
 
I've had the same problem.
You must tap but be careful not to bend the frame, and not to tap
on a soft thing.
I've put a steel cylinder under the frame and the axle.
With that, you can tap on something hard and not loose power .
I've also add a lot of wd 40 often.
Took me 1 or 2 days.
 
Thanks everyone.

I know it is easy to get brutal with this job - really fast - and I don't want to damage the frame or motor.

So I'm TRYING to be patient.

I don't mind cutting the bolt - I can get a new one.

What concerns me is that is seems to be stuck not in the swing arm, but in the engine cases.

Putting any excessive force on this bolt around engine cases scares the hell out of me.

If that is really where it is stuck, all I see are $$$.

As far as heat goes, I've never tried it.

If I do, any suggestions on exactly where to heat it for the best/quickest results?
 
sea foam deep creep is indeed excellent stuff, it takes heat much better without disappearing than pb blaster. wd40 is garbage in this application. the axle is likely stuck to the inner race of the swinger bearing. i have used a method kinda like ruwfo involving cutting the axle to get things separated. try using some heat from a little propane torch and deep creep.

i also really like using deep creep for a cable lube..stays put, doesnt evap, unaffected by cold
 
What concerns me is that is seems to be stuck not in the swing arm, but in the engine cases.

Yes, what's probably happen is the bolt partly stuck in the engine bushing, there's one on either side of the outside of the cases.

If you cut the bolt on both sides inside the frame, it should just pull out. I've have a bunch do exactly the same thing, it's really
a common problem.
 
Again, thanks guys.

So, just to be clear, IF I do choose to cut the bolt, cut it just inside the frame, but on the outside of the swing arm, correct?

Will I then be able to wiggle the motor out of the frame with the swing arm attached?

If yes, that sure will be easier to lug around to my press.
 
When you reassemble use a good "marine grade never seize" on the swingarm bolt. Good luck
 
The last one I had to weld a large slide hammer to the stud and slide hammer it out.

A large slide hammer is like a 24" long dent puller with a 5lb slide. She finally came out.
 
Have you tried using the shafts thread and nuts to pull it out or lock nuts on one side to turn and break the grip before you start smashing it?
 
I would think it is most likely stuck on the hard parts that touch the swingarm the needle bearings ride on. I have been in a similar situation many times though never on a swingarm in a motorcycle. A friend once torched one out with cutting oxygen but it was bigger than 12mm and he was employed in those trades. Guys in the body work trades would most likely use Big Bill's approach. My approach ends up being essentially making a pocket (socket usually) and a large enough C clamp to get as much pressure as possible and then pound (shock) on the screw end of the c clamp. There are incredibly strong c clamps that would work or could be cut and lengthened used in the steel fabrication trades. Similar force could perhaps be applied with the post 10 suggestion of the swingarm nut and perhaps a washer under it. That chrome moly tubing will flex a lot before deforming most likely if one could figure how to apply pressure the forward end could be spread enough to make a cut (bieng stuck on both sides will complcate). Perhaps put the bike on it's side with the pocket socket I describe so you are driving down. I would most likely only use an electric heat gun as a flame won't touch the actual stuck parts and the intent would to be expand things for the penetrant.

"Putting any excessive force on this bolt around engine cases scares the hell out of me."
Has the bike been stored outside or some other reason it would be stuck real bad? Perhaps they rode on the beach. Those thru bolts the shock mounts to were a battle for me.
 
Again, thanks guys.

So, just to be clear, IF I do choose to cut the bolt, cut it just inside the frame, but on the outside of the swing arm, correct?

Will I then be able to wiggle the motor out of the frame with the swing arm attached?

If yes, that sure will be easier to lug around to my press.

Yes on all questions
 
I really appreciate all the input everyone.

Now I don't feel so alone!

I'm the second owner of the bike.

It appears to have been stored for at least 10-years, and, I don't think the swing arm has EVER been off.

I'm going to keep tapping, flipping, and get some Sea Foam Deep Creep.

Failing that, I'll break out the torches.

(This is SUCH a PITA!) :banghead::censored:
 
If its any consolation I bought a 2010 WR 125 2nd hand and the Italians are notorious for lack of grease on assembly, the rear axle was locked solid, the swingarm bearings were stuffed and the linkage dry as the proverbial. It was only three years old at that stage. No other advice but great reading.

I can't get the head stem bearing out on an 83 XC 250, I think the answer is a washer of nominal diameter and filed on both sides to allow entry to head stem tube then bolt and not and pull it out. ????? I shouldn't of robbed the thread either but...
 
You could weld a nut to the stud and use a threaded rod with washers and a pipe for a spacer and try to Jack it out?

Kroil is one of the top penetrating oils.
 
Husky nut, I hope it's not to late to chime in.
Don't heat and no need to cut either...
Here is what has worked for me more than once. You need a impact air gun to do this tho. Spray the area like you never sprayed before I like pb blaster then loosen the nut on one side and go to the other side and tighten with the impact gun on the highest setting. Hammer just a little bit on this side . Then loosen this same nut so you have some space between the frame and nut. Then go back to the other side and tighten this side with the impact gun , just a little hammering tho about 15 to 20 seconds. Then repeat and spray and repeat you may even have to wait a day or so but just keep switching sides and it will pull the bolt to you when you are tightening that side then loosen it and pull the other side to you by tightening it and it will start to move more each time you switch sides.

Hope this helps more than one. Good luck
 
Don't feel bad just one out of 25 bikes did this same thing to me. Of course it's the frame, swing arm and motor I needed. I stayed on it till it came out. I think I still have that swing arm rod somewhere with the threaded rod welded to it. It's my trophy and remembrance of a battle I won. As said above spray the bejesus out of it.
 
the press is the answer.if you have access to one don't bother messing around. those other methods are good, but very time consuming. again ,if you have access to a press use it.
 
Do not feel bad, I had 4 of them with stuck swingarms and 3 have slotted pivot holes in the frame to parade the ignorance of previous owner neglect. When the shaft on one would not come out, I purchased 3 different length pivots before cutting it out of the frame.
 
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