• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1977 390 front fork oil question

oran

oran

Husqvarna
Hello,

can anyone give me a manual for a front fork, i need to know how much cc i need to put inside the fork and what screw's comes in the button(that you can take the oil out with them)

thanks
 
There is the tech manuals here to look at. I'm not sure what forks you have but on the lower back side of the fork there is a slotted screw to drain it.
 
The volume is not important - it's the oil level that you should use to tune.

Remove the spring and collapse the forks fully. Then fill with oil to 6 inch from top of fork tube. Try 15W oil. Then test and adjust from there. Oil weight controls damping. Oil height controls harshness/initial movement and bottom out resistance. More oil the harsher the ride. Shouldn't need much more than 500 - 600 ml total to do the job as the forks are skinny 35mm.
 
Don't remove the slotted screw at the bottom on the side.. The fork legs are easily stripped. Besides, if you are changing the oil, they need to come off to dump oil and wash out contaminates. I stripped one hole with little pressure. Jeff
 
the slotted screw drain method leaves some crap in the fork leg as well. for some reason the screw drain is a little above the actual bottom of the leg
 
Don't remove the slotted screw at the bottom on the side.. The fork legs are easily stripped. Besides, if you are changing the oil, they need to come off to dump oil and wash out contaminates.

I agree 100%, take the tubes off the bike & drain them from the fork caps, then pull them apart to clean all the crud that's in there.
Just remember to loose slightly the dampening rod bolt 1st, before you remove the tubes from the triple clamps. Or you'll be wishing you did when the bolts too tight & then you'll be temped to put them in vise.
 
undo everything while they are in the clamps, only way to do it.... make up a long wire so you can wrap some cloth around it to swizzle out the bottom of the sliders as all the alloy crud drops onto the bottom of these and doesn't wash out easily with out manual assistance.

I find 10 wt pretty good. mix a bottle of 10 and 15 to get 12.5 for that in between feeling....
 
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