• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1977 360 Auto ressurection

ajcmbrown

ajcmbrown

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hello again fellow Husky tragics, I have found another neglected Husqvarna to restore not far from my home, as the title says, it's a 1977 360 Automatic which looks fairly complete but in need of a cosmetic restoration at the very least, the engine and transmission will be the deciding factor which will determine whether this resto will take place as an auto or a manual.
It will need a frame repaint and most likely and engine rebuild.
The rest should be fairly straight forward, paint the frame, new fenders, paint the tank ( I may need your guidance with that Michel Dufayard), fork rebuild, seat cover and general clean up.
My starting point is not too ugly, but it will take time.
 
A clutch cover with no broken spring scarring means she will have been hardly used at all or the PO was extremely lucky I have had about 20 different Autos and they all have scarring! I would also not use ATF on an Auto, at approx 30 wt too thick for all the sprags and bearings. The correct hydraulic oil is available if expensive, though the cost of the oil pales into insignificance if compared to that of the sprags, bearings, gears and shafts!
 
Looks like in pretty good shape.

I have had a chance to get one but I always said, Oh hell no!

That’s cause I don’t have clue on the autos.

I want to follow your build on this auto!

Isn’t there suppose to be a thin piece of steel under clutch nut to keep springs from breaking and going into case?
 
stormer254 said:
A clutch cover with no broken spring scarring means she will have been hardly used at all or the PO was extremely lucky I have had about 20 different Autos and they all have scarring! I would also not use ATF on an Auto, at approx 30 wt too thick for all the sprags and bearings. The correct hydraulic oil is available if expensive, though the cost of the oil pales into insignificance if compared to that of the sprags, bearings, gears and shafts!
Click to expand...


Yes, preliminary inspection is positive, however I need to fabricate a tool to hold the hub before I can remove the large nut, then all will be revealed.
 
dartyppyt said:
Looks like in pretty good shape.

I have had a chance to get one but I always said, Oh hell no!

That’s cause I don’t have clue on the autos.

I want to follow your build on this auto!

Isn’t there suppose to be a thin piece of steel under clutch nut to keep springs from breaking and going into case?
Click to expand...


Don't worry Darin, I have no clue either, and I assume it will be a steep learning curve so let's see if you can teach an old dog new tricks?
 
Are those clutch weights made out of Brass?

Do you have to take inner clutch hub out via nut? In order to drive roll pins out? To get springs out?

Just curious? Or can you pop springs out with inner clutch in?

My neighbors dad, back in day had one and raced a few harescrambles on it.
 
I have the same model. When your done your going to love it. I rode a couple of vintage cross country's last year and the thing is like a goat, just hang on because it's going to take ya.
 
Nice find! I If you are going to ride it quite a bit then change the front hub (on the crank) to the later 390/420 hub and clutch shoes. The 360 hub will last for quite a while but will eventually break were the spring loop attaches to the hub. It is a simple bolt on swap.
When you pull the front hub be sure to thread the three puller bolts all the way through to and through the inside hub fingers or tabs or what ever you call them. If you only thread the bolts through the outside ones only you stand a good chance off breaking the hub.
So far the best oil I have found to use is Maxima HEAVY WEIGHT shock oil. I have been riding autos for the last twenty years.

Marty
 
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