• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 165 ring end gap

shawbagga

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Got 0.33mm(0.013") bout 15mm from top of cylinder squared up with piston. Sound bout right? Not sure if u checked this before u sent it back to me Walt but jus checkin before install?
 
Pretty much in the middle then. Shoulda known Walt would check this but never hurts to double check!

Ha there was an idiot guide in ring packaging too!
 
image.jpg
New pistons look so good!

Don't mind the dirty engine thort I was jus doin head orings 3 months ago that ended up bein a full top end hence jus a hose off. 24 degrees so good shed weather to get amongst it here. No beer tho, amateur mistake!
 
With cylinder torqued down(according to my elbow) my piston crown jus sits proud of cylinder. Minute but can jus feel it contact with a square edge wen placed across cylinder walls. How crucial is this to be at zero or below? Don't want piston/head contact!
 
You do know how to to squish?
Those namura pistons do look sexy but I've never used one.
Will watch that side for your review.
 
Namura shamura, that's a wiseco boy!

Yeh I know how to check squish jus CBF doin it. Don't hav decent verniers either. Stuck the fat base gasket(0.8mm) Walt sent me so should be fine. If not then u cn say I'm an idiot n u told me so!:)
I was toying with the idea of usin thinner base gasket(have a 0.4mm & 0.5mm from measuring em) that I got with top end gasket kit a while back but they would hav bn way too thin. Il keep em for next top end n double em up.
Walt cleaned up/skimmed head a little to remove sum indents from wateva was bouncing round in ther. From my non mechanical eye it looks around the 1.5mm which b fine with our shitty fuel. Il kick her in the guts tomoro n see. Went half turn richer on rod n PJ jus to be sure this time!
 
The impeller seals are pretty tough and bullet proof. I have seen 15 year old seals from a parts clutch case that had been sitting for who knows how long still seal and remain pliable.

Your squish will be ~1.15 mm for your gas. It was set on my bench motor and yours isn't going to be off more than .05mm either way. Do not go with a smaller base gasket unless you are going to use race gas of at least 100 octane and at the very least check your squish before you run it. This configuration of Head/Piston shape does not like squish gaps of less than 1.0 mm +-.05mm. It creates too much friction with the bevel in the head matching the piston and you will actually lose some velocity and create micro areas of very high compression at the edges of the piston. Not good and it will also make jetting a nightmare. JFYI from my experience with the motor over the years.
 
The impeller seals are pretty tough and bullet proof. I have seen 15 year old seals from a parts clutch case that had been sitting for who knows how long still seal and remain pliable.

Your squish will be ~1.15 mm for your gas. It was set on my bench motor and yours isn't going to be off more than .05mm either way. Do not go with a smaller base gasket unless you are going to use race gas of at least 100 octane and at the very least check your squish before you run it. This configuration of Head/Piston shape does not like squish gaps of less than 1.0 mm +-.05mm. It creates too much friction with the bevel in the head matching the piston and you will actually lose some velocity and create micro areas of very high compression at the edges of the piston. Not good and it will also make jetting a nightmare. JFYI from my experience with the motor over the years.
See Walt allows for blokes like me n our laziness/dumbness!:)

Jus looked at my PMs to u Walt n it was bloody 5 months ago! Lookin forward to ridin it again after sort this rear brake issue
 
Believe me a man's reputation is well earned.
And I doubt he could accommodated for some one as stupid as you shawry but I'm sure he's done his best to make it fool proof.

Now it's down to you.

P.s. Sorry if I spoke outta turn Walt.
 
It's alive, ITS ALIVE!!!
Jus fired her up seems all good. Funny how after bein apart for a while u forget how good they look, sound, feel.
Anyhoo doesn't seem to be any coolant leaks, sounds good, idles ok, compression thru kicker felt good(for 165), coolant circulatin, oil turnin over. Looks like a win touch wood. Took 4-5 kicks but was wearin thongs!:)

Jus gotta sort this rear brake n cn ride it. Seems like air trapped in caliper.
 
Hi Shawy,

I had the same problem with no rear brake, after no riding, and also when I tried to bleed. the only solution for me was to remove and leave hanging in vice for a couple of days to allow all the air to rise naturally thru caliper / brakeline and pedal.

Mark
 
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