• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 165 kit

K.Forte'

Husqvarna
A Class
I want to give a shout out to Walt and his 165 kit,,Jeff and I were the subject of a cylinder wall failure,,,when walt got the cyl/piston back,he knew rite away,,the engine had 2 1/2 hrs time on it.. Walt is standing behind his work and getting jeff and I a (reconditioned) cylinder free of charge and a new piston... This is the kind of person (builder) you want to deal with.. He stands behind his work.... :thumbsup:
 
I'm curious. By "cylinder wall failure" do you mean a plating issue, of did the cylinder bore crack?
 
Ditto on that. Walt
I want to give a shout out to Walt and his 165 kit,,Jeff and I were the subject of a cylinder wall failure,,,when walt got the cyl/piston back,he knew rite away,,the engine had 2 1/2 hrs time on it.. Walt is standing behind his work and getting jeff and I a (reconditioned) cylinder free of charge and a new piston... This is the kind of person (builder) you want to deal with.. He stands behind his work.... :thumbsup:

Ditto on that!!
The world needs more people like him. I had an overheating issue due to bad oil and not enough fuel, not his fault and Walt helped me out with another cylinder. That sort of service just wouldn't happen here in Australia. Thanks Walt!!!
 
Ditto on that. Walt

Ditto on that!!
The world needs more people like him. I had an overheating issue due to bad oil and not enough fuel, not his fault and Walt helped me out with another cylinder. That sort of service just wouldn't happen here in Australia. Thanks Walt!!!
One of your Aussie mates was trying to clue me in on how to get these kits to work well with your very different fuel and I thought I could work around it by just maximizing the bowl. Guess what he was right and apparently that isn't enough and the base gasket additions are the only way to get them to run well on your fuel. The bowl size is limited by the amount of material that's there to work with safely. I still think the best bet for you guys is to find a source of AV gas 100LL and mix it 50:50 with your pump stuff. That is a pretty universal fuel that is has to be consistant and stable.
 
I think the fuel we have here in Oz is full of rubbish and doesn't burn as well as the fuel sold elsewhere in the world. Unfortunately AV gas isn't available in the areas we ride. We sometimes ride two and three day rides through the bush.
What squish measurement should we be looking for Walt?
Or do you have why other recommendations to reduce compression that will be suitable ?
 
Im also having detonation with our Aussie fuel . It makes you wonder if 98 octane really is what they say it is. $1.68 or whatever per litre . I will check my squish tonight but I think the more retarded WR ignition may suit better so I think I will try that out
 
I think the fuel we have here in Oz is full of rubbish and doesn't burn as well as the fuel sold elsewhere in the world. Unfortunately AV gas isn't available in the areas we ride. We sometimes ride two and three day rides through the bush.
What squish measurement should we be looking for Walt?
Or do you have why other recommendations to reduce compression that will be suitable ?

Mix in Toulene to bump the octane rating.
 
I think the fuel we have here in Oz is full of rubbish and doesn't burn as well as the fuel sold elsewhere in the world. Unfortunately AV gas isn't available in the areas we ride. We sometimes ride two and three day rides through the bush.
What squish measurement should we be looking for Walt?
Or do you have why other recommendations to reduce compression that will be suitable ?
I think you are going to need to have the squish at ~1.3 - 1.5 mm. That certainly isn't the most efficient squish gap but with the limitations of the bowl size is probably where you will need to go. I will see if I can get some more info for you today.
 
Just had the same problem with 3.3 hrs on mine. Obvious coating issue. Walt is taking care of it for me. Can't ask for more than that. Let me add that when the bike was running, it was freaking awesome! Can't wait to get it back...
Thanks Walt!
 
Im also having detonation with our Aussie fuel . It makes you wonder if 98 octane really is what they say it is. $1.68 or whatever per litre . I will check my squish tonight but I think the more retarded WR ignition may suit better so I think I will try that out

If you guy's can get octane booster try a small amount of that,,2 cap full's no more than that.. :thumbsup:
 
I think you are going to need to have the squish at ~1.3 - 1.5 mm. That certainly isn't the most efficient squish gap but with the limitations of the bowl size is probably where you will need to go. I will see if I can get some more info for you today.

I need to get this kit to work with normal unleaded which is 94 octane, apparently!!
What is your opinion of octane booster?

Thanks Walt
 
N
If you guy's can get octane booster try a small amount of that,,2 cap full's no more than that.. :thumbsup:

I read a thread about it on here but wasn't convinced this is the way to go. It seemed to me that the consensus was a waste of money for the improvement gained and it didn't alter the octane rating as much as it needed to.
 
I think you are going to need to have the squish at ~1.3 - 1.5 mm. That certainly isn't the most efficient squish gap but with the limitations of the bowl size is probably where you will need to go. I will see if I can get some more info for you today.
Mine appears to be 1.2mm through plug but need to pull off head to check correctly
I'd like to try retarding ignition on my cr and richening fuel / air mixture a tad
 
I need to get this kit to work with normal unleaded which is 94 octane, apparently!!
What is your opinion of octane booster?

Thanks Walt
The comment about using Toluene is the correct way to go if you are going to add anything to increase octane. I believe Toluene has an octane rating of ~110 so if you are starting at 94 and want to get to 100 you would need your fuel to be 40% Toluene. Octane boosters can only increase octane level in a similar ratio. When octane boosters claim to raise octane say 4 points when used as directed, a point is 1/10th of an octane. The trouble with many octane boosters is when mixed at high levels the other ingredients can be hard on things like fuel lines, O-rings, etc depending on the composition of the item. Toluene is the best way to go if you choose that route. Trouble is that Toluene is pretty expensive in its own right.
 
I had a plating issue and is solved the Walt way :thumbsup:
(again big thanks for that)

I also have the detonation issue and no way a possible source of advanced fuel

The only thing that is left for me is modifying the head as 2 base gaskets does not help to eliminate the detonation

which will happen next week (just back from holiday)

Robert-Jan
 
Back
Top