Hey guys, looking for a little advice here. Just for back from a 5000 km road trip,(changed oil mid trip) putting my total at almost 15,000 Km. I Checked the valves at 10k, and they were ok. Since I returned, the engine is now making a rapid ticking noise that wasn't there before. It's noticable when riding, rises and falls with engine rpm, and is present only with load on the engine. Under very light throttle/cruise it disappears, dipping into the throttle just ever so slightly brings on the noise. Just pulled the valve cover to inspect the valves clearances, and they're still fine. Should I start looking at the timing chain, even though the recomended replacement is still 5000 km away? Is there a way to "count the clicks" on the tensioner like the 610 guys can do To gauge its wear? Unfortunately I didn't get a video or sound clip of the noise before tearing into it. Thanks for any input. Oh, and I acknowledge that this engine is far from quiet, but this particular noise is new, so I'm thinking something is out of spec.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
15000 Km service, valve clearances, engine noise
- Thread starter bushwa
- Start date
Fast1
Husqvarna
AA Class
No clicks to check on the 630 tensioner.. completely different than the 610.
Have you found anything in the oil screens during the last oil change?
Have you replaced the clutch spring washers?
Have you isolated the ticking noise to the engine and not the drive line, wheel bearings ect?
Have you found anything in the oil screens during the last oil change?
Have you replaced the clutch spring washers?
Have you isolated the ticking noise to the engine and not the drive line, wheel bearings ect?
Nothing in the oil but a small amount of fine stuff on the magnet, and an occasional small piece in the left side screen.
Clutch spring washers are getting checked and replaced while I have it apart this time just for good measure. I have the ones from the guy on advrider. Clutch bushing too.
Defiantly engine. checked for anything else that could be rattling, heat sheilds, skid plate, or other loose bits.
Ordered the timing chain parts today, going to do it. I'll should be good for at least another 15,000 to 20,000 km then.
Clutch spring washers are getting checked and replaced while I have it apart this time just for good measure. I have the ones from the guy on advrider. Clutch bushing too.
Defiantly engine. checked for anything else that could be rattling, heat sheilds, skid plate, or other loose bits.
Ordered the timing chain parts today, going to do it. I'll should be good for at least another 15,000 to 20,000 km then.
Anyone here done a timing chain before that might be able to answer a few questions?
Top end is apart.
Stator cover is off.
Ok to use air impact rachet to remove the flywheel nut?
Manual is using a special tool to pull the flywheel, this needed or is there an alternate way?
Upon reinstall, what's the best way to hold the crank when torquing the flywheel nut?
I've done clutch work, and gone as far as replacing Pistons and having the cylinders off for boring with the hawk and a ttr125 before, but never removed a flywheel. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Top end is apart.
Stator cover is off.
Ok to use air impact rachet to remove the flywheel nut?
Manual is using a special tool to pull the flywheel, this needed or is there an alternate way?
Upon reinstall, what's the best way to hold the crank when torquing the flywheel nut?
I've done clutch work, and gone as far as replacing Pistons and having the cylinders off for boring with the hawk and a ttr125 before, but never removed a flywheel. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
kirbybikes
Husqvarna
AA Class
I believe jtemple has done his. Try a search and I think he has a bunch of info listed in the threads.
On a side note I believe I saw you on your trip coming out of Sedro Wolley after highway 20, Sept 21. Not often you see a Husky , KTM and a FJR playing together. Like on Sesame Street one of these things is not like the others.
On a side note I believe I saw you on your trip coming out of Sedro Wolley after highway 20, Sept 21. Not often you see a Husky , KTM and a FJR playing together. Like on Sesame Street one of these things is not like the others.
blueknob
Husqvarna
AA Class
i used an impact on my 610 to remove the nut; i think you will need a puller to remove the flywheel, i used an impact on that also, short quick bursts on the gun and it pops off. the motion pro part no. is 08-0349, m35x1.5 R.H. internal thread, about $30 on ebay. jammed a piece of aluminum in the gears on the clutch side to torque it on.
Thanks! Seen the puller listed in another thread too. I'll give that technique a try when I get the puller. Hopefully one of the local dealers have one in stock I can pick up on Monday. In the mean time, going to pull the clutch and take care of the clutch spring washers.
I used two pennies on the clutch side to "lock" the engine for loosening/removing/tightening the flywheel on my 610. Like the aluminum mentioned above, the pennies are softer (copper-clad zinc) than the gears and take the damage (and they will be wrecked when you're done).
Thanks for the tip. I think I have Some scrap al around here somewhere. Found out today the clutch bushing is back ordered. :-( shop still didn't get the flywheel pulled either. Good thing I have a 2nd bike. Missing out on some good fall trail riding tho. Oh well. Might reuse the clutch bushing if I can get the rest back together, and change it out at the next o change.
It has to be shocked to come off. What *I* did to get the flywheel off, follow at your own risk.
After getting the puller as tight as it would go with the impact gun, I gave the flywheel a few smart smacks 90 degrees to the crank nose with a small brass hammer, moving around so as not to hit it in the same place/same angle. Not hard strikes, but not light tinks...Just a few smart smacks while leaning on the impact gun. On the third smack the whole thing jumped off of the end of the crank with a bang and flew into my lap.
After getting the puller as tight as it would go with the impact gun, I gave the flywheel a few smart smacks 90 degrees to the crank nose with a small brass hammer, moving around so as not to hit it in the same place/same angle. Not hard strikes, but not light tinks...Just a few smart smacks while leaning on the impact gun. On the third smack the whole thing jumped off of the end of the crank with a bang and flew into my lap.
What would you do?
Finally got the flywheel off, the reed valve removed, and the timing chain out. The old chain has no measurable stretch compared to the new one. The guides look as good as the new ones. I purchased the parts after experiencing a new noise in the engine that sounded to me like valves or timing chain. The valves are in spec, the chain has no stretch, the guides are not worn, the clutch Cush washers were all intact (still replaced these as I had the new ones). I'm tempted to put it back together with the old timing parts and run it for another 10,000 km. (currently at 15,000). What would you do? Where else do I look for an issue? Pull the head and jug and examine the piston?
Finally got the flywheel off, the reed valve removed, and the timing chain out. The old chain has no measurable stretch compared to the new one. The guides look as good as the new ones. I purchased the parts after experiencing a new noise in the engine that sounded to me like valves or timing chain. The valves are in spec, the chain has no stretch, the guides are not worn, the clutch Cush washers were all intact (still replaced these as I had the new ones). I'm tempted to put it back together with the old timing parts and run it for another 10,000 km. (currently at 15,000). What would you do? Where else do I look for an issue? Pull the head and jug and examine the piston?
I replaced my timing chain at 15,000km simply because it was nearing that time in the service schedule, and I couldn't be bothered pulling it apart again. Like you though, I noticed bugger all wear on the timing chain or guides.
Like everyone else, I jammed soft metal (Aluminum) between the teeth and a 1/2" impact wrench to undo the nut. The flywheel puller did the job without to much hassle when using the impact wrench and a hammer to persuade it what was good for it....
I used the M35 Motion Pro puller one that blueknob mentioned as well.
Without knowing what the noise was, it's hard to say. If you had any sort of piston issue it should either be:
A) pretty catastrophic and obvious
B) be related to one or more of the rings breaking, so a compression test and/or leak down test should diagnose this fairly easily.
Have you seen any metal caught in any of the filters?
Like everyone else, I jammed soft metal (Aluminum) between the teeth and a 1/2" impact wrench to undo the nut. The flywheel puller did the job without to much hassle when using the impact wrench and a hammer to persuade it what was good for it....
I used the M35 Motion Pro puller one that blueknob mentioned as well.
Without knowing what the noise was, it's hard to say. If you had any sort of piston issue it should either be:
A) pretty catastrophic and obvious
B) be related to one or more of the rings breaking, so a compression test and/or leak down test should diagnose this fairly easily.
Have you seen any metal caught in any of the filters?
I would get a very small bit of metal in the left screen, but I think that's from the clutch basket/spring retainer plate, as I could see where the springs were wearing into the metal and small bits came off.
Put the old chain and guides back in. I'll do this again in about two years and replace the lot.
Now, next question, do these cam's look normal? This a series of close ups of one of the intake cam lobes, the exhaust looks the same.
Put the old chain and guides back in. I'll do this again in about two years and replace the lot.
Now, next question, do these cam's look normal? This a series of close ups of one of the intake cam lobes, the exhaust looks the same.
No comments on cams? She's back together now. I did adjust one intake valve that was a little tight. Didn't get to ride to see if the rattle that developed was gone or not, as I got half way down the block this morning, and, I couldn't get into 2nd gear. 1st and neutral are all I got. Just as well, it was -5C. I didn't go into the gearbox, but I did have the clutch and stator side covers off. No leftover parts on the work bench. Any ideas? I assume the clutch cover is going to have to come off again. Sigh.