• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC 14 TE300 Powervalve Adjustment

racemx904

racemx904

Husqvarna
Pro Class
So in my last ditch effort to save this bike.... lol

It is jetted perfect, no Rekluse, believe it has a shaved head (just like me)....

Right now it hits to dang hard to be "fun".... it just wheelies everywhere and most of the time when you dont want it too....

So it was set where if you set a straight edge across the outside of the p/v adjustment case the adjustment screw was exactly flush with it....

I went 1 full turn in from there..... its basically flush with the small beveled area of screw hole....
 

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2 turns in for most mellow. I run 1 turn in on my Husaberg TE250. Check which color spring is installed... Green is most mellow, yellow is middle and red is hardest hit. If it was Ryder's race bike, I'd guess it has red installed. Green spring with 2 turns of preload, will give you the most mellow ride. I run my TE250 like that for a wet technical race, so it runs like a KDX 220...

It also doesn't hurt, to run jetting a little fat, as it also mellows the bike out.
 
It actually sounds perfect. What you need is a second bike you're more comfortable with and that one for when you want to go crazy ;)
 
Some of us us a finger on the clutch lever to keep the front wheel down ... or slide an inch or so forward on the seat and lean our head out towards the bars ... The former method is the most exciting ...
 
There is no doing that with this motor while trying to push.... its way to pipey for a big bore.... if it was a 125 /200 no problem but it no fun and/or very fast trying to ride it this way thru the woods....
 
The 300 is very adjustable - one of the things I love about it.

Like Norman Foley states - fatten up the jetting. I run mine on the rich side, spooge is still at a very acceptable level. With the green spring in I find the power to be very linear and controllable. Mine has the mild and hot ignition setting as well - not sure about the newer bikes.
 
Have you tried putting a 25 lb dumbbell on the handlebars?

The real problem is the shaved head. You can play with the power-valve but until you get the head fixed, it's going to be problem.
 
Ron, after doing all the standard stuff, jetting, PV adjust etc....as stated above by Portland, you may want to get back to the "enduro" head. As you can see in the powerparts catalog there are many different head configurations possible (with the interchangeable chambers in that case for example, from mild to wild just in the head). So big differences in power characteristics can be found immediately in the combustion chamber shape/squish/compression. Perhaps just buying an OEM TE300 head and throwing it on to tame the beast back to "enduro" spec for the masses will bring joy. RN
 
+1. One reason the Beta 300 is so managable is the compression is not too crazy. Especially on the '13 its on the low side which is fine by me as it still has plenty and revs well too. Also try jetting it with an NECx/NEDx series needle, smooths it out even more without having to go fat and sloppy. I even turned my PV adjuster out half a turn after this.
 
another trick is too add a .25mm base gasket it will lower compression raise port timing which will reduce /tame low end power and transfer that that to top end gain, if you don't go there no issues for you, all the PV springs are the same and do not change the low end power in any way until you are around 5000 rpm mark, turning the dolly screw in delays the PV opening and turning out the PV will opening sooner, turn it out to far and you will get a flat spot were the PV opens to soon in the lower revs reducing power.

if you want to tame it down, try a larger front sprocket, green spring, ignition wire removed to apply the soft map, all free mods.
spend money, base gasket trick, stock head, or swap over to 250 top end
 
I went stock dial on screw snd switched to green spring and soft map, but 3/4 throttle not crisp, little slight hesitation. Im using jd jet kit and 1 1/2 out on air screw, anyone have opinion on why slight hesitation? Need half turn in on air screw maybe?
 
What needle?

My brother is at 35 pilot, 165 main and N4DK needle in 2nd clip.... he has a blubber or fat spot high mid..... raising needle a clip and dropping main next
 
Sounds to me you need to go down on needle to richin needle curcuit. I use JD, he has pilot richer (38) and leans main out and tapered blue needle. I might try in a little on air to richin it up or mess with needle, calling him tomorrow.
 
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