• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

$10 Left Hand Rear Brake

Poopy

Husqvarna
AA Class
Ive been wanting one for a while, so I decided today was the day. Having a Rekluse and that useless impotent clutch lever sitting there had finally pushed me too far.

I opted to try using the factory clutch master, ive read a few people have done it with success. Rather than buy a new brake line, I found a double banjo fitting from Earls and simply connected the clutch line to the rear brake line, they are the perfect length to do this. One problem I ran into was the fitting I got had a hole in the bottom....soooo I did what comes natural, weld the hole up!

It took a few minutes to bleed, but it works awesome for now! I cant wait to ride tomorrow!

LHRB.jpg
 
What fluid you using? as I think that the seals needs changing in the master cylinder to work with brake fluid.
 
2 rides on it and I love having it there. The first few corners I blew through trying to stop with my right foot were awkward...but after a couple hours it just felt right.

I lost pedal pressure on the last half of sundays ride, so I figured the brake fluid ate the seals or something....

The factory clutch hose actually has a small leak in it where it is crimped at the banjo fitting.

A new hose and i'm back at it!
 
I traded off with a guy with that setup once and almost killed myself :D 32 years of running a rear brake with my foot is tough to reprogram in 10 seconds.
 
+1 for what Kelly said. It took me a couple of rides to get used to using the left hand without thinking. I still set up my left hand rear brake to retain the pedal, just saves on bruises when you have a brain fart.

The next time you are going down an extremely steep, loose, rocky and very tight right hand switch back you will love having that left hand brake. While all your budies who are better riders than you are still forced to bull dog their bikes around, you can simply ride it around sliding the rear into the trail with your right foot supporting the turn. That coupled with the huge improvement in feel makes it a no brainer for me.

For all you guys that still want a clutch, I run a two finger lever that is a converted compression release lever for the clutch. The amazing thing is about the rekluse pro and the efm auto clutches is that they reduce active disengagement lever force. My WR 360 which has a fairly stiff clutch(much stiffer than the WR300 I tried) became a 1 finger operation with the conversion to the auto clutch no matter the rpm.

Hope that helps,
Walt
 
Ya those right hand downhill switchbacks were my nemesis...especially in the trails we have up here. Tight and technical doesnt really even describe it. :cheers:
 
Ok ride 4 with this brake lever, and it is THE best modification, other than the rekluse. I LOVE it. It feels so natural there, fun level just went waaaaay higher.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
For the record, I would not have changed that setup if the factory clutch line didn't develop a leak. And buying a factory clutch line is almost impossible up here so thats why i went with the aftermarket line.
 
So, Poopy, did you find that DOT 5 did not harm the master cylinder seals? I'm going to have to do this. Like you, I plan to test the system by doubling the banjo fittings. I checked into a new hose. $60 for a braided stainless brake line that long doesn't scare me a bit.
 
It actually took a while to clean out the system, I think I might have used compressed air to clean out the mineral oil, it had turned gooey in places. It was a bit of a process to get it cleaned out and bled.
 
Good choice you won't regret it once the sticker shock is over. I took a little spin on Gasserman's new TXC 450 today and I kept hitting the clutch to brake. :eek: I hate having to use the pedal, it just isn't the same. Once all you guys switch I won't have these heart in throat moments. :lol:

Walt
 
so in my planning this out...I've got a question... Do you just replace the banjo in the slave cylinder with a shorter solid core bolt?

That doesn't affect the Rekluse at all? I'm just wondering as I am having a dragging issue with my rekluse and I need to bleed the hydraulic clutch...

Thank you!!!
 
Andy have you checked your clearance on you clutch and made sure it isn't to tight? We had that happen with my son's 08 KTM SX505. Once we shimmed it correctly the drag went away. We too thought we had air in the lines but it was just set up to tight.
 
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