• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

10 Fins gets her Race Tech Gold Valve and Springs

hawaii-rider

hawaii-rider

Husqvarna
AA Class
Well I did the complete overhaul of 10 Fins forks

Race Tech Gold Valves
Correct Springs for my weight
New fork seals


Honestly folks the hardest part of the entire install was making a tool to hold the damper rod so i could torque it all back together.

I used a piece of 1" square tube notched and matched to the top of the damper rod.

Process?
1. Pull forks and drain em, remove the sacked out fork springs.
2. I had an impact wrench, shoved a wood broom stick in the top of the damper to hold it still, worked for getting the damper rods out.
3. Disassemble the forks and inspect..
4. Race Tech directs that you drill new holds in the base of the damper rod so you end up with 6 total holes or three pairs at 5/16", done and washed out, cleaned/chamfered the edges
5. Pryed the old fork seals out, drove the new ones in. Used my custom seal driver (ABS pipe cap from Home Depot at $.55)
6. Slid the damper rod back in, fork base cap in first, red locktite, torqued it down
7. Race Tech Gold valve and Race Tech Spacer just sits on top of the Damper rod.
8. Insert spring, measure for recommended pre-load (aluminum tube is included with RT springs), cut alum spacers for correct pre-load
9. Fork Oil - 15 weight
10. Done.

Here (less springs) is all there is to the stock forks
tubes and damper rod
IMGP3861.jpg



Here is the whole set up
Race Tech springs with the included Alum tube
Race Tech Gold Valves
Race Tech Spacers
Damper Rods with new holes
IMGP3865.jpg



I have a ride planned this weekend, will let the crew know the difference in ride.

HR
:cool:
:usa:
 
Nice. :thumbsup: I have heard those forks are pretty horrible stock it will be interesting to hear what you think of them all redone.
 
Let us know how they work. I guess the top out washer isn't used anymore? It looks like the part number is FEGV 3801 on the box. I would assume the same kit would be used for any 40mm fork? I look forward to your input. Mike
 
Appears there is a play day at Goldendale this weekend so will take 10 Fins there to dial her in.

Mike, you interested in the Play Day?

Not too far for you!!!

HR
:cool:
:usa:
 
There the ducks guts,best bang for bucks out there,in the dirt or on the road,both my old bangers have them and its like night and day.
 
Good write-up!

Did you get everything from Racetech????

When I called them about my 500, we didn't get far.
 
mud;34564 said:
Good write-up!

Did you get everything from Racetech????

When I called them about my 500, we didn't get far.
Click to expand...

I called Matt at Race Tech, their vintage guru and he ran down these parts by numbers and my ride weight lack of skill etc :busted:

Once I had all he part numbers I ordered EVERYTHING from the Thumper Talk Store

Setting me up for my 83 Forks.

this is what I am ordering through the thumpertalk Store:

Fork Springs: FRSP-305548 (48kg springs for my ride weight etc)
Gold Valve System: FEGV-3801
Gold Valve Adapter Kit: FPEV-AD3802P

15 weight oil to top things off.

HR
:cool:
:usa:
 
hawaii-rider;34566 said:
I called Matt at Race Tech, their vintage guru and he ran down these parts by numbers and my ride weight lack of skill etc :busted:

Once I had all he part numbers I ordered EVERYTHING from the Thumper Talk Store

Setting me up for my 83 Forks.

this is what I am ordering through the thumpertalk Store:

Fork Springs: FRSP-305548 (48kg springs for my ride weight etc)
Gold Valve System: FEGV-3801
Gold Valve Adapter Kit: FPEV-AD3802P

15 weight oil to top things off.

HR
:cool:
:usa:
Click to expand...

Sounds good, but how did you lilke the suspension when you rode it? Happy?

Give us some details! :)
 
Huskydoggg;34651 said:
Does anyone have the spring rates for the stock springs? I would like to order slightly heavier springs but don't know what the stock rate is. Thanks
Click to expand...

I have measured the stock springs on a Tinius Olsen force test machine. They measure as a 500 lbs per inch spring constant and at stock length are about an 18 lbs per inch spring rate. (Remember the forks were designed as a air/spring/oil system) If you cut the stock springs you can use the spring constant value to determine the final spring rate. (500#/length = spring rate). I have cut up to 4 inches from the stock spring without problems (about 22 lbs per inch spring rate).

Regards,
PC
 
All- for what it's worth the Race Tech guys were at a CalVMX event this weekend in Perris, CA with their Gold Valve kits and described the sano installation process (if I had 40mm forks would probably do it) but they also had their rear shock with adjustable compression & rebound. Total works of art, 16mm shafts, billet,etc.,and will be on my bike next year (and wayyyyy cheaper than what Ohlins quoted to build)!
 
Leftcoast leftkicker;35991 said:
All- for what it's worth the Race Tech guys were at a CalVMX event this weekend in Perris, CA with their Gold Valve kits and described the sano installation process (if I had 40mm forks would probably do it) but they also had their rear shock with adjustable compression & rebound. Total works of art, 16mm shafts, billet,etc.,and will be on my bike next year (and wayyyyy cheaper than what Ohlins quoted to build)!
Click to expand...

Do they have a set for replacement of remote reservoir ohlins for a 1980 390 CR?

also post up a link if they have any information........

T
 
Leftcoast leftkicker;35991 said:
All- for what it's worth the Race Tech guys were at a CalVMX event this weekend in Perris, CA with their Gold Valve kits and described the sano installation process (if I had 40mm forks would probably do it) but they also had their rear shock with adjustable compression & rebound. Total works of art, 16mm shafts, billet,etc.,and will be on my bike next year (and wayyyyy cheaper than what Ohlins quoted to build)!
Click to expand...

PIX?
 
Leftcoast leftkicker;36160 said:
That's it and check out what Philip's doing with Ohlins over at Husqvarna-parts.com:

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736874/7024721.htm

Gee, what do i sell to raise $1,400?
Click to expand...

By the way, sorry I couldn't make it out to Perris.... I will one of these Vintage days.....let me know when the next event is that you are going to.....

Allen: What is the cost on the Race Tech set.... ? I've got a great working set of remote (1980) Reservoir Ohlins that might just have to go on ebay.....! may go the Race Tech route instead....

T
 
What is the cost on the Race Tech set....
From what i can read on Racetecks page, $1700,- (start price 1100,- piggyb, 400,- rideheight 200,-)
Think i try the Øhlins!
 
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