09 TE610 forward oil drain bolt-not my friend

[octagon pilot]

So I picked up an 09 TE610 about a year ago. when I first got it home I was going over it and noticed that the forward oil drain bolt was rounded off somewhat. I couldn't get a good bite on it with a 12 boxed end or socket. I was pulling the clutch cover any way so I just leaned it over and drained whatever else I could with the cover off.

order and receive new drain plug from then local husky dealer (now no longer husky dealer), to have on hand for the day I extract the buggered one.

Fast forward to now, and I tapped my brand new harbor freight 12mm extractor on there tonight, and had a decent bite. Rounded off.

drive the 11 on there, hit it a few light triggers with an electric impact and it rounds off too.

planning to pull the clutch cover and drain what i can again. refill and ride until I can get her into a shop and let a pro decide the best course of action.

So my question is this-how much oil normally comes out of the forward drain if the rear has fully drained?

and also, whatcha think is up with that thing being so solid in there? maybe red loctite or similar? It doesn't appear to be cross threaded, sitting straight and flush...

wish that joker woulda spun out for me

 

[grinder96]

It has been my experience that the majority of the oil comes out of the rear plug with the front one contributing very little to the oil change.

As for the drain plug my 630's were SUPER tight too. they don't need to be that tight. most people crank on them because they are scared they will vibrate out. A good crush washer and a snug cinch is all it needs!!!

As for removal I would stay away from impact (electric or air). removal takes a slow steady hand when bolt traction is limited. Impacts tend to work better when you have good surfaces on both tool and bolt.
You could try Vise grips, if you can get them on there and get them to bite hard or try an easy out? I would also recommend at the minimum Craftsman tools instead of anything from Harbor Freight. I have a mix of snap on and craftsman and for generic wrenching it does matter to much but when you really need a tool to perform (like pulling a stripped drain plug) there is a HUGE difference!! If all else fails, then to the shop it goes.

 

[EricV]

I'd say try vise grips or something similar as well, and perhaps Dremel grind it to a square (or at least two opposing flat surfaces for the wrench/vise grips to gain traction on.)

 

[octagon pilot]

thanks for the input guys!

forgot to mention, but vise grips were my next step after a 6 point socket, before the extractor. No luck with them.

I was really surprised that the extractor, especially the 11mm, didn't turn it. the electric impact was on it good for several good thumps before it started rounding and it didn't budge. when it first started moving, i thought it was turning the bolt, but it was actually just rounding it off.

Leaving for moab next week, so I'm gonna fill up the oil and ride. Figure it out over the winter.

Kinda scared to take it into a shop, cuz I moved to the SLC area about a year ago and don't really know a mech I trust, so I'll be kinda getting pot luck on whoever takes a shot at it. Kinda scared of the hammer and chisel method although I have seen it work, and also seen it cause worse damage. I'd rather have a stuck, rounded off bolt than a cracked case...

may try the dremel idea with some heat myself, or else try to find someone that'll weld another nut on there to get a better bite.

Anybody know a good wrench in the northern part of Utah?

 

[EricV]

may try the dremel idea with some heat myself, or else try to find someone that'll weld another nut on there to get a better bite.

I think the dremel will work- either two flat sides or a nice deep slot that you can put something sturdy into and then back it out. Yes- do be careful as you don't wanna crack the case (just went through that myself, unrelated to drain bolts, and the case set...only sold as a set...for the 630 is 1200 bucks. Now that said there are many kinds of case cracks that won't necessitate a full case replacement- as they can be welded- but still case damage, as we know, is always to be avoided like grim death.)

 

[Theo]

A similar thing happened to me. I tightened that bolt too much, because I was one of those people:

most people crank on them because they are scared they will vibrate out.

I tried to unlock it with an extractor like these:

Using it like this:

And I broke the extractor! So, there was an half of it stuck in the bolt.
That bolt was removed after having brought the crankcases to the mechanic to get them split because of a certain issue I've written many tims about.
So, I cannot tell you how to remove it; EricV's advice about Dremel sounds good to me.
But in Italy we say "mal comune, mezzo gaudio", which means that, when you find out that someone has (in this case, had) the same issue, at least you feel less alone!
Moreover, since we are two (so far), the people who will read this thread will probably pay more attention when tightening that bolt.

 

[Circus]

I stripped the small drain plug two years ago. I tried to remove it using the bolt extractor from Sears craftsman it didn't work. Since that time I only use the rear bolt to remove the oil. After most of the oil is drained out through the rear drain hole I will shoot compressed air into the oil fill port and a small amount of oil will come out. I don't even worry or think about that front oil drain anymore.

 

[huskylove]

Sometimes what works better than the extractors, is to simply drill the bolt out a bit smaller than a close TORX bit. HAMMER the torx into the drilled stud/bolt etc, and then use a socket wrench to try to break it loose.

I always break those extractor things off in the stuff but a torqx bit works often enough

 

[octagon pilot]

yeah i have broken a few internal extractors myself in the past. that torx bit idea sounds like it might work... may give that a shot when I get into this again. she's topped off with motul now ready for moab on thursday and friday of this week...

thanks for the idea

Sometimes what works better than the extractors, is to simply drill the bolt out a bit smaller than a close TORX bit. HAMMER the torx into the drilled stud/bolt etc, and then use a socket wrench to try to break it loose.

I always break those extractor things off in the stuff but a torqx bit works often enough

 

[RDTCU]

drill it up a few steps at a time until you're just under the minor diameter of the threads, it'll come out, maybe inpieces...

 

[Theo]

Anyway, consider these pics:

Actually, I'm not 100% positive about what I've written in them (the third one is from the Internet; I've never disassembled my engine so much).
Here, in the second picture, the drain bolt thread seems to be more noticeable.
There's also another passage on the right side:

IMO, if you remove the left oil filter cover and lean the bike to the left, you can drain the oil as good as when you've removed the drain bolt.

 

[RDTCU]

Anyway, consider these pics:
IMO, if you remove the left oil filter cover and lean the bike to the left, you can drain the oil as good as when you've removed the drain bolt.

This should get 99% of it out.

 

[huskylove]

Any luck?