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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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08 TE 610 developing knocking sound... cam chain?

DIRTBIKE

DIRTBIKE

Husqvarna
AA Class
After commuting on my new to me 610 for the last few months ive noticed a knocking sound coming from the topend which has definetely got louder over the last few weeks.

Basically i was just wondering if any of you guys have had the same problem and found it to be just the cam chain or if ive got a serious problem here. The bike has about 8500km's/5600miles on her and after doing my research have come to realise that alot of people had replaced the cam chain by now. Now apart from the obvious chain jumping teeth on the cam gears and the adjuster being at its limit being good reason to replace the chain what other symptoms might i notice with a stretched/worn chain.
Any bike ive had with a worn cam chain made a ticking noise much like a loose tappet sound but this seems to be more of a knock and has got me a little worried. Im going to pull out the adjuster tonight to see how many clicks out it is so how many clicks out is a good indication that the chain is had it and where do i get a new quality chain from if i need one.
 
tons of poss on here about the cam chain. remove the CCT (remove the middle bolt and spring first) and check to see how many clicks/teeth are showing. If its less than 10, push it back in, re install it properly (middle bolt last) so it retensions itself, it should be quieter. Or get a manual CCT. If 10 or more teeth, prolly time for a new chain. Also it could be the valves ticking.
 
Didnt get around to pulling out and checking the tensioner last night, maybe tonight i will. The noise is not the valves ticking either, well they are ticking and need adjusting but thats a whole other noise going on there.
Looks like i will need to remove the exhaust to remove the CCT so might need to wait until the weekend to do that anyway.
After having another listen before leaving work today its hard to say exactly where the noise is coming from, if i put my ear up to the bottom end on the RH side of the engine it sounds like its coming from there as it also sounds like its coming from the top end when i put my ear up to it as well. Looks like i will be removing the clutch cover this weekend also and checking for excess play in the basket and hub etc.

While im in there is it worth removing the basket to check the condition of the spring washers or are they hidden behind the backing plate on the back of the basket and unable to be seen as i suspect???
When/if i do need a new cam chain where do i get a good one that will last longer than 8000km's, is there an after market chain that somebody recommends or have Husqvarna sorted out there crapy cam chains and now make a longer lasting chain?
 
My bet is that it's the woodruff key on the crank gear (primary side) is getting ready to shear****************************************!! I hunted for that knock for 1500mi. When the key went so did the knock. Pull the primary cover, remove the clutch, (it might be ready for a bushing anyway), remove the crank gear and the key will probably look pretty beat up. You can get a new key at the hardware store, I took my calipers and found a couple a few thousanth's bigger than stock. Hand file it to fit snug!!! Now VERY IMPORTANT**************************************** Clean the threads on the crank and nut squeeky clean!! Put on a little RED locktite, re-assemble, lining up the marks correctly, tighten the nut with a 1/2" impact wrench or figure out how to torque it to about 80ft lbs. without breaking anything else, put everything back together and you will think you have a new motor. Good luck and have fun.... SA
 
Another possibility is the cam chain hitting on the reed valve. The best way to chec a worn chain is to pull the side cover. If it is hitting the reed valve it's easy to see.
 
Thanks heaps for the info on what might be the problem and where to look guys, seems to be a big learning curve getting to know the ins and outs of these husky's. Guess who's a busy boy this weekend.
 
Removed the RH case this arvo and sure enough the clutch basket has alot of side-side movement so i removed the pressure plate/clutch plates and hub and the first thing i notice is that the basket has been grinding on the back of the hub and inner springs due to the excessive movement...not good. Then i removed the basket and find that only a few of the spring washers are actually still there and not alot left of them either. So as suspected pretty much every thing is had it and tomorrow i will be ordering new washers/bush and whatever else i decide i might want tonight. Thanks to all you guys who have swung me in the right direction on where to look :^)
 
Awesome, But as long as you're this far, check the key on the crank gear****************************************! It's worth it to buy the socket ( I forgot what size), and put a good key in now. Then you can ride fast and far with no worries.....
 
Went out and looked, It's a 1 1/2" 3/4" drive socket, then I had to get a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter to fit my impact gun. Easy on and off, put in a good key the way I described and you're ready for the races!!!
 
Yeah i measured the nut and its about 58mm, 58mm is more like 2 1/4"-2 3/8" and def not 1 1/2" so i dont know what is going on there, and you are talking about the key on the crankshaft arent you?. I have all the tools and know how being a mechanic so i will bring a socket home tomorrow and remove the nut to check the key. Got prices on the other parts i need today and they come to around $400 which is just rediculous considering i know i will need to do it all over again in a few thousand km's. Thats $400 just for the 6 springs, 12 cups, 3 rivets and the bush and then i still need to shim basket because the new bush just isnt going to take up all the play the basket had, trust me its pretty bad. So as you would expect I am not happy about buying the genuine parts which we all know are nothing but $#it if they only last this long for $400 and then do it all over again in 12 months from now so i am going to search high and low for an aftermarket clutch kit. Any ideas on who might make a kit for these things if anyone, not having much luck so far???.
 
16000.mi. Springs and cups still look great and I use the clutch for EVERY shift!! I don't know why guys are chewing these up. I wouldn't worry too much, just get it all fixed right and you should be fine for a long time. I've put in 2 bushings in the 16000.mi. og. cam chain is at 7clicks, one clutch cable, one new key, (yes the one in the crank gear) I'm on the second rear sprocket, and I don't know how many tires...... So do a nice job putting it all back together, run some good oil and go conquer the earth!!!
 
DIRTBIKE said:
Yeah i measured the nut and its about 58mm, 58mm is more like 2 1/4"-2 3/8" and def not 1 1/2" so i dont know what is going on there, and you are talking about the key on the crankshaft arent you?. I have all the tools and know how being a mechanic so i will bring a socket home tomorrow and remove the nut to check the key. Got prices on the other parts i need today and they come to around $400 which is just rediculous considering i know i will need to do it all over again in a few thousand km's. Thats $400 just for the 6 springs, 12 cups, 3 rivets and the bush and then i still need to shim basket because the new bush just isnt going to take up all the play the basket had, trust me its pretty bad. So as you would expect I am not happy about buying the genuine parts which we all know are nothing but $#it if they only last this long for $400 and then do it all over again in 12 months from now so i am going to search high and low for an aftermarket clutch kit. Any ideas on who might make a kit for these things if anyone, not having much luck so far???.
Click to expand...

Yes the key in the crank gear... use your wrench to turn the motor over and line up the marks for the counterbalance gear, then blow off the nut with the impact and the gear comes right off, do the key thing like I said and you're good to go. I thought I had a rod going out for 1500.mi. even had George listen to it and niether of us could come to a conclusion what it was. Then it got real loud and I thought the rod was headed for the bash plate, then silence!!! I thought the bike healed on it's own!! LOL.. Then came the most horrible vibration you can imagine!! But no knock. Fixed it the next night with a 75cent woodruff key and rode Barstow to Vegas the next weekend trouble free and is still running quiet and fine. Don't hesitate to ask for help, lot's of good guys here.

Good luck again.....
 
Alright currently waiting for Indy Unlimited to finish making a batch of new cups/washers so should be ready in a couple of weeks plus a couple for shipping, $125 all up shipped to me and to be honest i couldnt be happier after finding out what the genuine piece of crap cups are worth and knowing i would be doing this all over again in one year from now. Also after doing a little extra research i've come to realise that a vibration (rpm's related) that it has always had should be obsolete once i get this clutch and possible worn woodruff key...which i still have'nt got around to checking yet should be gone. Long story short i'm happy i found this site and the great fellow Husky jockies you all are. This internet thingy is pretty damn awesome i must say.
 
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