• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

07 TE510-impeller nut missing!

mdubya

mdubya

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey guys. This has been such a helpful place for me. I hope you can help once again.

The impeller nut is missing on my 07 TE 510. It looks likely that it would have disappeared into the head. Do I need to remove the head or is the passage open enough for the nut to pass through?

Thanks in advance.

What I found when I pulled the water pump.

 
mdubya said:
The impeller nut is missing on my 07 TE 510. It looks likely that it would have disappeared into the head. Do I need to remove the head or is the passage open enough for the nut to pass through?
Click to expand...

Take that lower hose off, the nut might be inside there. And then you can look inside the connection to the head, it might be resting right inside that opening.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Take that lower hose off, the nut might be inside there. And then you can look inside the connection to the head, it might be resting right inside that opening.
Click to expand...

Thanks OHR. :thumbsup:

I just pulled the upper and lower hoses and no nut. I am thinking about compressed air next. :thinking:
 
Can I use any nut the fits the threads as a replacement or is the Husky part special or particular?
 
The one off our 09 disappeared as well never to be found again. We replaced it with a stainless steel nut from ace hardware temporarily and then got an OEM nut.
 
Looks like it was a 5mm nut


STRIKE THE FOLLOWING REFERENCE TO 6mmShould be a 6mm nut with 8mm flats, you might can only get a 6mm nut with 10mm flats at the hardware store, but that would work OK. I've replaced several 6mm thread/8mm flats with 6mm thread/10mm flats, nuts and bolts on my bike.
http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=4776



See if you can find an aircraft/locking nut and it wont happen again

locking-nut.jpg
 
Great info guys! Thanks so much.

Now, should the impeller spin freely on the shaft or does it fit tight on the shaft and the shaft spins the impeller?

Better safe than sorry. :o
 
I got a small baggie of stainless locking M5 x 1.0 nuts at Lowe's. I put a small M6 washer behind the impeller because it looked like the impeller was binding on the cylinder head. If you guys think that is a bad move, I will pull it out. I snugged the locking nut up good and tight, but not too tight. I turned the motor over with the kick starter and everything turned with no binding.

So, I buttoned up the hoses and filled the rad with water and fired her up with the rad cap off. Water came gushing through, just like (I believe) it is supposed to. Great tip from another thread.

Now, if I can just get the juice clutch to work properly, I will be in business. :applause:


Please let me know if you think I have made a fatal error. :)
 
Colo moto said:
Since you are already in there you might as well replace the pump impeller with the high flow impeller. It comes with a free nut.
Click to expand...

Very true. And if yours is like ours, the hole in the center of the impeller has probably rounded off some or completely so one way or another you might need to replace the impeller. We put on the high flow impeller and have never overheated again.

I posted pics of the old/new impellers in this thread:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/installation-of-oversize-water-pump-2009-txc-450.25153/#post-241437

Here's a link to buy. Just the stock impeller is around $20 so I figured this to be a good upgrade. It doesn't come with o-rings, though, so be sure to buy a new o-ring as well.
http://www.halls-cycles.com/default.asp?page=xstore&zcid=5600
 
mdubya said:
I got a small baggie of stainless locking M5 x 1.0 nuts at Lowe's. I put a small M6 washer behind the impeller because it looked like the impeller was binding on the cylinder head. If you guys think that is a bad move, I will pull it out. I snugged the locking nut up good and tight, but not too tight. I turned the motor over with the kick starter and everything turned with no binding.

So, I buttoned up the hoses and filled the rad with water and fired her up with the rad cap off. Water came gushing through, just like (I believe) it is supposed to. Great tip from another thread.

Now, if I can just get the juice clutch to work properly, I will be in business. :applause:


Please let me know if you think I have made a fatal error. :)
Click to expand...

What is wrong with your clutch?
 
I got a small baggie of stainless locking M5 x 1.0 nuts at Lowe's. I put a small M6 washer behind the impeller because it looked like the impeller was binding on the cylinder head. If you guys think that is a bad move, I will pull it out.
Click to expand...

There is an o ring behind the impeller that needs to seal properly. If the impeller has too much clearance behind it, it can sometimes flex under load and allow water past this O ring. If you leave the washer in, check your oil frequently for water contamination. The oil will look kinda milky or chocolate milky vs the regular black.
 
Colo moto said:
There is an o ring behind the impeller that needs to seal properly. If the impeller has too much clearance behind it, it can sometimes flex under load and allow water past this O ring. If you leave the washer in, check your oil frequently for water contamination. The oil will look kinda milky or chocolate milky vs the regular black.
Click to expand...

I believe the washer is seated against the o-ring. But I will keep an eye on things as best I can. I do know what water in the oil looks like so I will know what to look for. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the clarification. These are great things to know!
 
Phoenix said:
What is wrong with your clutch?
Click to expand...

I am having trouble keeping pressure at the lever. I replaced the piston in the slave with the one recommended on this forum (the name escapes me right now). The guy that makes it is great and he had all sorts of good advice for me. Very helpful.

I can bled the system and get good pressure, but when I go for a ride, almost all dual sporting on dirt roads and FS roads, the system slowly loses pressure to the point where I have to pump the lever several times to be able to use the clutch when coming to a stop.

I am going to bleed it some more this afternoon to see how that goes. I am using mineral oil.

The slave looked good when I replaced the piston and there are no signs of leaking from the slave. I am not so sure about the master.
 
Some perspective: I inherited this bike from a buddy who passed away. When I got the bike I thought it was terrible. It was frightening to ride, real white knuckle stuff. When I got over the initial shock of that, I figured the bike can't be that bad, and even if I was just going to sell it, it was going to need some attention.

I found an unbelievable amount of nuts and bolts loose including the mounts for the handle bar risers, which were so loose the bars could rock back and forth about a half inch, and even the steering bearings were loose. I also found all of the damping adjusters to be screwed in to almost full stiff. And the rear shock spring was preloaded so tight it took me about 25 full turns backing off the preload to get ANY free sag. Then I had to back it off some more to get a nice comfortable inch or so of free sag.

With the sag and the damping adjustments set to reasonable settings, and with all of the loose nuts and bolts snugged up, the bike started exuding confident handling manners and has become a real joy to ride.

So now I am down to chasing the small stuff.

I find the bike to be a bit on the heavy side compared to my old 02 KTM 520 EXC, but the KTM is a stripped down woods only bike.

The Husky has great brakes, awesome, really. And the suspension is excellent.

I am running Kenda 270's at 20 or 21 PSI. The whole combination makes for a fantastic dual sport bike which is capable of going a couple hundred miles in a day and also capable of running all but the gnarliest of trails. Even then, it is capable, just a bit of work. :thumbsup:

The bike has 10K miles on it. The last 2K done by me.
 
I find it almost impossible to do by myself. Find a big syringe and a piece of hose that will fit tight on the syringe tip and the clutch slave bleed nipple. Take the top off the master cylinder. Fill the syringe with mineral oil, attach it and the hose to the slave nipple, loosen the nut and start pushing the oil in with the syringe until you quit seeing bubbles come out at the top. That's the part that makes it almost impossible to do by yourself. You really need someone standing at the top to siphon off mineral oil (a second syringe is handy here) and to tell you when the bubbles stop. You really have to put your arm into it to get push the oil in. Somebody else might have more to contribute, but that's how we did it.
 
Phoenix said:
I find it almost impossible to do by myself. Find a big syringe and a piece of hose that will fit tight on the syringe tip and the clutch slave bleed nipple. Take the top off the master cylinder. Fill the syringe with mineral oil, attach it and the hose to the slave nipple, loosen the nut and start pushing the oil in with the syringe until you quit seeing bubbles come out at the top. That's the part that makes it almost impossible to do by yourself. You really need someone standing at the top to siphon off mineral oil (a second syringe is handy here) and to tell you when the bubbles stop. You really have to put your arm into it to get push the oil in. Somebody else might have more to contribute, but that's how we did it.
Click to expand...

Excellent. Thank you!

I have a brake bleeding kit around here somewhere. It will suck or push. I just can't find it right now. :busted:

I spent some time bleeding the old fashioned way. I have good pressure now and the mc is full of mineral oil. Lots of air bubbles came out. We shall see. Shakedown ride in a few.
 
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