Xlite 11-14 updates!

Just a new topic about these bikes. Still after all this years my best bike ever is the xlite Husky. As all bikes it needs som love to make it to the top. I have compared it 2021 with oranges, blues and my own RG3 GG 2018. They are all great bikes but still non of them has the same balance as my -14 310. Anyone who needs a new topic about how to turn your bike to a 2022 competitive bike? I start with my top 3.

1. Check exhaust valve shims to make it more easy to start. Was wrong from factory on 2/3 of my xlites. One 11 and one 14. The last 14 that was a TXC was okay.
2. I really hate the joint between the radiator shrouds. I tape the joint with ducktape. That will avoid your knees/pants to get stuck in corners. Maybe just a problem for me but I have had it as a big issue. At least the first half 2011.
3. Rear sprocket from 49 to 50 or 51.
4. Bonus point: I have struggled with my suspension since bike no1. Moved my front RG3 KYB from my GG last summer. The bike went from good to WC winner. It was like driving on clouds. Even better than my GG that still has RG3 all over.

What have you done?

Hi Soderberg, I really like the idea of this thread!!
If I have to compare the 310R with other recent bikes I could only with the Sherco 300 4T 2020 I own: the 310 feels a little bit lower in the back ergonomicwise so it keeps 10 minutes of riding to me to feel confortable on the 310 while seating and turning while on the Sherco or on the husky WR the feeling is more immediate. A part from this marginal aspect the 310 handles as good as the Sherco (the sherco handles extremely good due to well valved kyb's and incredibily smooth erogation) and it as more hp and torque...the 310 feels more like a 450, the sherco is more like a pumped out 250 4T.
The 310 has a great motor, I don't understand why SWM that has the last gen xlite frame and the 340x prototipe with the revised estart system doesn't produce this bikes anymore. Furthermore, the 310, although not free from design flaws, is still the smallest and lightest engine ever produced and in my opinion also the most powerful; i miss to try the new tm 300 fi twin but i think it will replace the sherco really soon since the the sherco conrod is going bad after only 30 hours of use and I don't think I will keep a motor that need a new conrod every 50 hours.
On my 310 I've tried to follow all the main modifications done the factory team to make the bike a better racer:
- Sold the original OC kyb's and bought a pair of Kyb CC from a husky TC 250, got them rebuild and revalved for enduro by the race team and they are awesome
- Stock Kyb shock which does not convince me, even if revised and with the right spring it is always low and tends to kick
- kite triple clamps with 15 offset and 192 wheelbase to make the bike more stable; I have lost something in the slow stuff but I do more open so its ok for me
- LeoVince X3 with the two mid screens removed and no dbkiller...great sound, great weight save and the engine breathes better
- PCV with tinken rocket map
- exhaust clearence checked at 20 hours and still good from the factory; to help starting I put a Alyant ylp 14 and a supplemetary ground cable from the negative to the starter motor
- 13:50 gearing
- still have to work to get more confortable on the bike, maybe with a higher firmer seat that I still don't find in europe

Great info, ill steel some of it . When you changed the Kyb forks. Whats the difference between OC and CC? I though all twinchamber Kybs was the same, except for the tuning?

When I said KYB OC I referred to the OEM TE 310 open chamber fork while with CC I was referring to the closed cartridge kyb, the twinchamber you said (the same of sherco, beta, gas gas and yamaha )

Okay, not harder than that . Well, Ive had both of them. Always serviced my suspension myself. There is a big difference between service and making it better though.

I have had my 2013 TXC for a year and have not ridden it in the dirt! I've been restoring it and just recently FINALLY got the estart to work right. Anyway I can tell the motor is a little beast from testing it on the road. Also, have a TM 300 4T for comparison. Also the Husky is a PIG. It feels like a boat anchor when I put it on the stand. The TM is a feather

Glad to hear the positives. While the bikes were slammed with the onset of the KTM machines, I kept mine. As fresh as new right now and needs to be ridden. Just getting off a toe surgery so any day now. Sold my Sprinter and it should fit in my new Metris. With a PCV and Autotune, it's too hard to part with, and then have to set up a new bike. Still toying with that but still looks like a tuner, reed removal, etc... I may get a new bike but would be hard pressed to sell my 310 with the PCV and a Ty build. I think either KTM or Gasgas got the rights to that motor and it really should be an alternative to the KTM products. It's unique and powerful.

GG at least owned the engine but as Ktm never even considered to make a GG with nothing else but their engine I guess its ditched. Would be interesting to see another brand with the xlite. Why not Reiju. Maybe they got the engine blueprints when they got the 2strokers from GG?

Glad to say my 310 fits the Metris well, so some off-roading tomorrow.

Hello Great topic ,I've been a member for a while but never posted until now. I been riding my 2014 te310r for 2 seasons now with lots of seat time, I love the bike especially the engine, but by the end of this season I was getting good enough as an old guy ( 60 years old) keeping up with much younger guys.I realized I had to do something with the suspension after lots of research and reading I replaced fork springs with .40kg springs from Racetech along with revalving and racetech gold valves did all the work myself with racetechs recommendation. Wow completely different I liked it so well that I revalved with gold valve in rear shock.Bike is unbelievably so much better. Pretty sure once I get used to it the young guys will be the one trying to keep up:-)

Hi all, I'm all in on this thread with my 2013 TE310R. I've had about 6 months on this bike coming from my first bike which was a 94 DR350 so its a major improvement. Took care of previous owner aesthetic issues so far and am still fighting difficult hot starts and off-idle pop/cough stalls. Decomp exhaust valve was at .22mm (.008") so I figured there was the fix to my hot start issue. Shimmed it down to .16mm (.006") and it's just as bad if not worse. I'm thinking of bringing it down to .10mm (.004mm).

I had the 12 point injector professionally cleaned, new fuel pump, new in-tank filter, cleaned throttle body, TXC air cage, 02 removed, but I'm not sure what map is loaded on the ECU. I'm assuming its running lean because of the pop stalls, but would hope the previous owner loaded at least the TXC map with that 12 point injector. Is there anyway I can see what map is loaded? I'd like to know before sending it out only to find out it has the correct map for what's on the bike. JD Jetting has the 2013 tuners back on their site so I could go that route, but a $60 ECU re-map is easier than a $260 tuner for now.

After I figure out the stalling I can move onto what you all were already talking about, suspension!

Should not have or need any injector than stock on the 13/14. 02 plug makes no difference as the map will use with stock map and not with Map 3. Need a Husky tool to see what Map is loaded. Map 3 is the best map but after I moved to a PCV noted it was slightly rich.

You can see in this table my initial map after being dynod at dynojet. Note the negative numbers where fuel is being reduced. This was using Map 3 as a base map and then the dynojet corrections to it.



As far as setup with Map 3. Remove Cat, and baffle cut out of velocity stack. 02 doesn't matter or interfere.

That should provide a good base for the JD. Use my table above to see where you may want to begin adjusting the JD fueling.

As far as valve shimming. Definitely tighter than spec. I get an occasional click on start. Next press spins up. Just don't let the starter labor. A LI battery helps in that department.

Check Husqvarna World. They might have the JD Tuner

I tightened the exhaust valve even more and that seemed to help while the e-start was working at all... yesterday while on a ride, the e start just stopped working all together. One click from the relay and nothing after that. Kick started up no problem. Im getting power through the relay and down to the starter when I got the button, but nothing. I think I'm going to bring the starter in to see if something is going bad (commutator?). I'm not familiar with how the internals work.

I see JD has it back in stock on their site, but thank you!