250-500cc WR 360 Mods tips n tricks

Right mentioned somwhere else on this beloved digital home refered to as cafe husky was suggested we have a 360 mods thread..... No takers so here it is. :0
My bike the one that is unfortunate to have landed in my lap after previos owner needed to sell due to moving back to greese.. £1200 bought me a 2002 model 360.
A complete pig to start would bounce on the kicker for 5 mins at a time till i learnt to really loose my temper and jump on the thing like you were trying to put out a flaming bag of well you know!

So i have drilled clutch lever for a hole closer to pivot point (cheap good mod)
Venhill teflon feather light cable+ throttle cable as i kinked original landing on a fence after a jump on cts practice day.
Lectron 38 3-1xl carb (amazing no AMAZING) easyer to start much more control no need for recluse this thing pulls from half rpm in 6th to screaming head off.
Decomp head (home brew)
Lower link (semi home brew)
Boyceseen reeds
Fmf gnarly
93 cylinder bored to last piston size wossner d like 78.94mm (big bore)
Ktm 360 1997 conrod (still available)
Silicone hoses (chinese brilliant)
Renthal cutdown road bars
Hack sawed bar clamp saves twist.
Running 14-48 supersprox at moment.
Cut down seat (nubbly legs)
Did led headlamp conversion killed it turns out its regulated ac Leds not approved.
Rad guards (home brew)

Think thats about it, waiting for head to come back after 1.2mm been turned off it to actually make squish band work, done full engine rebuild new skf bearings one ina as skf dont make it.

What you got?
Oh i ride tight woods like bicycle track.

Before gnarly

Run a rec/reg off a pit bike (Ebay) to solve your AC/LED issues.

i have 2 360's, actually had 2 others, two brothers ended up with
a 1993 i bought 10 years ago,
Gnarly pipe, huge improvement over stock
FMF Turbine Core sparky, sounds amazing
Renthal bars and grips, love the grips
Malcolm Smith skid plate
Motion Pro Terminator clutch cable, the best thing you can do for the money
replace the Nissin master on the front brake with a Brembo, way nicer
15/48 gearing a dream to ride with all the torque
great woods bike, mostly what i ride
have not done anything major in 10 years, an amazing bike and engine

had a 92, the only mod was the Dynoport pipe, Renthal grips and 15/50 gearing as it's power band was a little higher
this became my brothers bike, when he moved he sold it and regretted that, ended up with another 360, albeit a KTM

a 99 that i hated till i put a Lectron on it
Malcolm Smith skid plate
Motion Pro Terminator clutch cable
Gnarly pipe
FMF Turbine Core II, sounds even better
15/48 gearing
the Lectron made it a great woods bike
the only major repair was a faulty ignition i replaced

a 98 that i bought and before i rode it another brother bought
he stole my Dynoport to put on it

great engine format, working on head decompressors for my 99 and his 98

I echo the lectron on the 2002 was a pig to start and power delivery was way off, tried and tried to jet the mikuni spent £70+ on jets dropping two sizes at a time got pilots needle and six mains before she was about right thought thats crazy pm'd kelly sold a spleen (not mine) and dumped mikuni in a box.

Rebuilt my 98 from the ground up after it was melted in a shed fire!
All new bottom end bearings
New Crank bearings + Rod ,Big & Little end
Barrel re-plated and fitted new Woosner piston
Motion Pro Cables
Boysen Reeds
38mm Airstriker Keihen Carb & JD jet Kit
Wallybeans Airboot mod
Renthal Bars with Tag grips
EVO Barkbusters
FMF Gnarly
Pivot Pegs
Graphics Kit
.50 Racetech springs & Re-Valve
& plenty of other bits & pieces
Photo of the 360 with my Nuda!

Question...anyone know what part number you use for the Turbine Core II silencer?

2002 WR360
decomp head (came fitted by PO, luckily for my knee as the kick starter is less than ideal)
rebuilt crank, rod and all bearings replaced, replated barrel and new piston (expensive rebuild but the bike is the last of its kind so I had to do it, also it was cheaper than buying a new bike so i could get that past the home finance dept)
FMF gnarly pipe with std silencer (flattened original pipe in the forest , consider TC silencer if/when I wreck the std one)
boyesen reeds with cleaned up reed block filler & carb rubber mount (lite version of WB mod, has some top end now)
Steahly 10oz fww (which helps spread the top power for forward motion, instead of useless wheel spin)
Mikuni TMX carb with Power Now Plus (new slide, jets and needles fitted but cant get a new main needle jet so still not running ideal, considering Lectron next as they seem to be the answer but my Mikuni float bowl is almost touching the cases currently so does the lectron fit in OK)
I have had to replace the external plastic connector rod on the power valve as the lower ball end wore out from dust ingress.
Sump guard, frame guards, radiator guards, rear disc guard & hand guards, renthal bars, pivot pegs. (recommend the pivot pegs if you have bad boot sole wear and feet slipping off the std pegs, huge improvement but expensive)
terminator clutch cable (not that much difference over std cable with decent routing in my opinion)
worn clutch basket rattle is on to do list, still getting all the parts as they are hard to find and expensive to get in NZ.
replaced throttle cable and carb end cable adjuster when if found the cable fraying on the bend part of the adjuster.
applied Selleys "knead it" epoxy onto the swing arm where the mud flap saws into the alloy and removed the ridge off the flap also.
3M scotch bright scourer pad in the bottom of the air box slot to stop dust and crap getting in but still drain water out.
I taped off the rear guard to the side panels and air box to stop a lot of the dust and crap getting thrown into the air box by the back wheel.
filter skins over the filter to allow for easier cleaning of the filter.
drilled the rear link and fitted grease nipples to kept the bearings lubricated.
A shock service is also on to do list.
14-46 gearing for a mix of single trail to fire roads.
tried one of those UK Race discs on the rear to get rid of the std jingling floating set up but it only lasted 2 short rides and was worn worse than the original after 10 years.
had something break the top off of the rear brake light switch hydraulic banjo bolt and ended up with no brakes. fit plain type banjo bolt.
drilled a small drain hole in the bottom of the swing arm near the chain adjusters so water gets out and I can spray CRC/WD40 in on the adjuster.

generally very happy with bike as it is light, has good power and reasonable handling/suspension. starts well now everything is fresh again.
parts supply and cost is my biggest issue in NZ
Had to soften the front end as it was just to hard on my dodgy shoulder ac joint.
It does feel long and has restricted steering lock which is often on the stops so I have to do a lot of back wheel steering to get thru and around things in the tight going but it is Ok everywhere else.

PS my other bike is a IT465 so that is my reference point for comparisons.
my son has ridden the 360 and compares it favourably with his updated 2006 GasGas EC300 saying the handling is OK and it has much more low end grunt but not the top end of his bike.

I've got two of them as well, an '00 and an '02.

The '02 came as a "parts bike" with the '00. One of the previous owners had stripped it and put all of the parts on the older bike because it had a street reg frame. I put it back together to figure out what was missing and it was pretty much complete minus master cylinders and some misc nuts and bolts.

I've been working on getting it going for a while now and here she is recently finished



Shes got a rebuilt bottom end with a '93 cylinder and a decomp head with a keihin pwk carb. Shes also now got a gnarly with an turbine core silencer and a new seat cover. New oversize gpi rads with unabiker guards (for te310 four stroke but they fit 2ts also) and cycra pro-bend hanguards. The front wheel came as a spare with my '09.

The older bike is similar but is in need of a top end at the moment but I hope to get her back together soon.

Think your telling porkies about new seat cover, lol
I did wallybean airboot mod too matched exhaust to cylinder every little helps, chinese foot pegs and rfx tips for brake n gear leavers.

it looks like it was in a fire
can you get new plastic to replace the blackened stuff

the muffler or sparky as some need is the same as used on a 250
there are no listings for the 360 but they are the same

the lectron has good float bowl clearance on mine. just another perk!

Yup i second lectron, also solid rear disc is awesome. Check your calipers not seized to the slide pins i toasted a set of pads and scored the disc beyond service limits untill i checked the caliper actually floated.
I am still using the solid disc tho too cheap to buy another!

I couldnt tell you as ive not had pwk or the airstriker, the ease of tuning amd the fact that i dont have to buy jets to get the bike crisp was the major selling point.
Not fiddled with the carb since i got it dialed in the second day it was mounted and run.
That was in febuary, the mikuni i would be a few jets bigger now as the airs colder.

As kellys mentioned if your current carb is set up correctly you shouldnt feel too much difference in delivery but the fuel economy you should notice.

Its your money and im sure the pwk is a good carb, the lectron imo is an excellent carb.

Hang on im thinking the pwk is the airstryker now... Thought you were refering to the things people stick in the air boot to direct air to there carb.. What are those things called?

as Juicypips says, the biggest difference is once its jetted its jetted
i bought mine for radical altitude changes during some rides
even a PWK needs its jets changed for altitude and temperature

Well l'm in for a fully rebuild on my 360 this season, not that it's actually warranted but l've decide to keep my 95 for as long as possible hence:
Do the mod to adapt the WR250 basket into the 360 (I think rockdancer has a post somewhere).
Replate the cylinder to the size of the 'A' piston again.
Do the whole bottom end.
Replace the PWK with the Lectron (far too many CafeHusky guys giving this carb the big up!!).
Piss the 43mm Showa's off and adapt either the 50mm Marzooks or KYB which will include the triple's
Piss the rear Showa off and replace with the Sachs and revalve.
Replace Chain slider, all linkage and swingarm bearings.
Replace 95 rims with current rims and disc's.
Replace the smashed up Gnarly with either a new one or dynoport
Insert the whole lot into a 2k rolling chassis.

I would love to keep the bike as original as possible but the reality is parts availability (esp plastics) is becoming harder and harder plus the suspenders are really out of date compared to even a 2k model plus the way l ride it...put it this way it isn't a VMX that l don't want to scratch or break as the motor is so good l'll try and climb the gnarliest hill and if the bike flips...oh well.

If KTM/Husky every brought out a 350/360 with a button...OMG!!!

the difference between the lectron and a properly jetted pwk is not much but getting the pwk dialed in can take longer. Also once the lectron is dialed in you don't really need to mess with it but you may need to rejet the keihin for altitude or temperature changes

one thing that i like about the lectron on a 360 is how it softens the bottom end hit, without really losing power on the bottom, if that makes sense. being able to adjust the "main" circuit by just turning a screw is very, very sweet. the float bowl will stop rubbing your case as well.

I just loved the lack of surging under cinstant throttle in traffic.. It was gone! Ment i can ride along street without reving to clear the pulsing.

Humm if i had that sorta money ohmygawd i probably just sling ohlins on all round.
Full rebuilds should be done if your board have the money and its broken.
Is the 95 the same cylinder as 93?? If so i know why your keeping it.