Winterizing 1976 360WR and a 1974 250WR

I got these bikes this past fall. I'm scheduled for surgery on my hand so I won't be riding them for a while. Plus, I live in Maryland, and winter gets a little chilly for me anyway. The bikes probably won't be touched for a couple of months. They have non-ethanol fuel with stabilizer in them now. My plan is to drain the gas tanks, and drain the carbs (Mikuni and Bing). Spray a little WD 40 in each tank to try to ward off any surface corrosion that may happen with an empty tank. I'm going to take out the plugs, spray a little fogging oil in each cylinder, lightly kick over the bikes without plugs to distribute the fogging oil, and hand-tighten the plugs back in. I've about 15 minutes of ride time on the gear oil, so that's staying put. I had intended to take the bikes apart and go over everything, but that'll have to wait for a few months anyway. I'm going to get bike stands from somewhere (any ideas?), and get them on stands and the weight off the tires. I'll wipe all the rubber stuff down with armor-all or some equivalent.

I've laid up boats for years, but never bikes--I'd just take 'em for a short ride every other week or so. This is the first time I've ever laid up bikes. Anything else that I should do? Am I doing anything that's a bad idea?

should be fine since you are using real gas. either drain everything or fill full with fuel. does your garage get damp or anything? the bikes are likely fine just sitting there.

My sense is you have a very thorough plan to winterize your bikes! Using E-0 fuel is a big help in this process.
Pull the mag covers to make sure there is no moisture trapped inside the non-vented covers.
If your bikes stay in a cold garage...your biggest concern will be in the spring when that first day of warm, moist eastern shore air hits that cold metal!
It will look like your bikes were just hosed down!
So...wipe down any exposed metal...nuts, bolts, fork tubes, spokes, etc. with an oily rag or metal protectant like Boeshield.
I use the aluminum (or steel...) push-down-on-the-pedal MX stands available from dealers or mail order...or Harbor Freight.
Or milk crates or wooden stands...

And get those WR's (and your hand) ready for riding in next year's AHRMA Mid-Atlantic Cross Country series! Quite a few events within a few hours drive of you.

If you want to use fogging oil, spray it into the carburetors while the engines are running and let it coat the crank also, this is how you fog watercraft. Otherwise I think your plan is excellent.

Maxima makes a great product called 'MPPL' which is a multi-purpose penetrating fluid/Fogging Oil.

Lanolin works well.drain carb, speedy recovery.

Drain tanks and the carby's.

Wheel bikes into lounge room,

and cover with a blanket.

Job Done!

Definately!! It was no fun after having a 78 Honda CB750 accidentally winter outside after getting it for a bargain price. In the spring I found all 4 pistons had the sleeves rust around them. Then I found out about fogging. We learn the hard way sometimes

In a pinch, a 5 gallon bucket works for a center stand as well. The bucket will likely crack over the winter, but won't fail/drop the bike as long as it's on level concrete. Otherwise, what you describe sounds good, a lot of bikes survive many a winter with a tank that's either top-full, or bone dry, and a drained carb bowl.

Thanks for the replies. Both bikes are "winterized." With luck, I'll be kicking them over in a couple of months. I took them both for a little ride around the neighborhood yesterday. I really don't have anywhere nearby to really ride them. The neighborhood streets (they're both tagged), and through some trails where you really can't get out of second. Even with that they're fun. Especially the 360. Lots of fun. Thanks again.