Will rekluse make a clutch package for my 11 tc 449

I love my 11 tc 449 I ride it on all different types of terrain. I find myself riding mostly tight single track trail riding and as much as I love clutching all day in the tight stuff my hand and wrist take a beating through out the day. (Doesn't help I broke my wrist 15 years ago and never healed properly.) Does anyone know if rekluse will make a clutch for the tc 449. I rode with an older guy on a ktm with rekluse and he made all the hill climbs and hard tight trails look easy. Ok what I'm trying to say is I'm a lazy rider and I would love a get rid of the massive arm pump I get on my left hand/arm, I can deal with it but if I didn't have to clutch every five seconds the ride would be much more enjoyable for me and my wrist.

http://www.efmautoclutch.com/ will make you one. Rekluse will not.

+1 Your best option.

Thanks for the info guys

I did have wrist problems for years... a friend who had both wrist's broken a couple years ago , suggested to Install a Flex HAndlebar from FASST Company.
And i have to say it was worth it.

I talk to Garry at efmautoclutch and he said he has been making auto clutches for the tc and te 449 since they came out they are just not on there website. 699.00 + tax.

Would this also be the same clutch to use in my 2011 TXC-511, or 2013 TE-511? How much effort is it to change from stock to an
EFMautoclutch?

I would shoot Gary a email with your questions he answered mine in a day. I'm pretty sure it's the same process as a rekluse pull out the old one and plop in the new one. I've watched many videos and the tube and it's pretty straight forward. The kit comes with everything for install he said.

Got mine ordered from Garry and he is a real charm and takes good care of his customers! Have ridden a wr450 with a rekluse z-start pro the last years and I truly hope that the EFM auto clutch will outperform the Rekluse.

LEt us know how u go without the Clutch Lever.....

they have brakes listed on thier website in the dirtbike section. Anyone know if thats supposed to be lhrb's?

Over the years, I have owned one of each brand and several by Rekluse. There is no doubt that the current generations of Rekluse models are simply stunning in function and simplicity. All that being said, I would never do without a clutch lever (and I have had several LHRB setups).

If Rekluse made a 449/511 version, I would own it.

I actually called them and talked to Jason (I think he is their lead engineer) and he said the numbers just were not there.

I ran two HARD seasons on my last Rekluse EXP and never adjusted it once - never really even thought about it. Most folks could hop on and I wouldn't even need to tell them there was an auto as it felt 100% like stock.

The EFM I ran was a basket sendoff - return - and install was NOT straight forward and getting the engagement right took a ton of tweaking. Once I got it right, it needed quite a bit of adjustment. I do agree Gary is a fantastic gentleman, but the product is simply not what a Rekluse is.

Hmm. That does not sound to good bigmo. Of course I need both the clutch lever and a good working EFM clutch without constant adjustment. Else it will be returned asap. Gonna let you guys now how it works out.
I have ran both Z-start pros and Core 2.0 clutches and they work both good and an extra plus for the later.

Rob

I feel compelled to give my account (from memory) of my installation as there were no step by step installation instructions in my kit. A few pictures, a few tips, and that’s about it. I was frustrated when I opened up the kit and saw amateur hour documentation. Again, this is from memory, so keep that in mind.

1.Lay bike on side
2.Remove clutch cover
3.Remove throw (bearing looking thing either stuck to the inside of your clutch cover or laying on top of the pressure plate). You will not re-install this.
4.Remove pressure plate (the ring with the 10 bolts on the outside). You will not re-install this.
5.Remove the first steel clutch plate. It has a raised ridges on it. You will not re-install this.
6.Use impact wrench to remove center 27mm nut.
7.Pull entire assembly out, including outside and inside clutch basket structure, as well as clutch plates.
8.Bolt auto clutch to the inner clutch basket assembly using the 4 flat heads through the holds in the bottom of the assembly. IMPORTANT: Clean threads, use red Loctite, let dry. There have been instances where these bolts have backed out so tighten them as much as possible and use maximum strength thread locker.
9.Re-install outer clutch assembly over drive shaft.
10.Re-install splined washer. Make sure everything is seated correctly.
11.Install 4 thin flat washers supplied with auto-clutch to set initial distance. These washers are used to adjust the distance between the last fiber plate and the autoclutch.
12.Adjust the order of your clutch plates, starting and ending with a fiber plate. In order to end with a fiber plate (or the top with the bike on its side), you need to sandwich the last two steel plates together (ending clutch pack order would be fiber plate, steel, steel, fiber).
13.Install the clutch pack either in the outer basket assembly or on the inner basket assembly. I found it easier to install them on the inner assembly and then slide it into the outer assembly while holding the clutch plates together with my fingers. See Husqvarna manual about proper clutch plate alignment with respect to the oil passage holes (notice the 4 wider notches on your clutch plates; these need to align with the oil passage notches on the inner clutch hub assembly).
14.Re-install 27mm nut. Make sure everything is seated. Eventually you want to locktite this nut, but only after confirming operation, adjustment, testing, etc.
15.Measure distance between last fiber clutch plate and the autoclutch assembly. This should be .050 to .060 thousandths. Remove or add thin flat washers on top of your splined washer accordingly. My kit came with 5.
16.Re-install clutch cover. Use grease to keep the rubber o-ring seated in its slot. I ruined one previously when it partially came out of the slot.
Adjustment basics:
Adding a ball = harder engagement (but may engage sooner)
Adding/subtracting spring washers = increases/decreases engagement RPM
Increasing/decreasing distance between autoclutch and last fiber plate = increases/decreases engagement RPM
I have only had one ride and haven’t adjusted it yet. I found I needed a harder engagement and a later engagement. That's next weekend's project.
Increasing/decreasing distance between autoclutch and last fiber plate = increases/decreases engagement RPM
I have only had one ride and haven’t adjusted it yet. I found I needed a harder engagement and a later engagement. That's next weekend's project.

Thank you! Appreciate it. Hoping to get my package on friday or next week. Then I will start assembling. Will let you guys know how it works out.

Rob

The Clake 2 would be another option. I had the Clake 1 and loved it. The Clake 2 is much improved

When is clake 2 available? Can't find anything on thier website

It has been available for a couple months.Demand is so high that it overwhelmed him. Just send Owen a email. There is a good demo on Thumper Talk the tech section. type clake brake in the search function

So what is the verdict/experiance here with the EFM

My personal experience is that it required constant adjustment - that being said mine was on a RFS. I moved to Rekluse at that point and never looked back. With this current generation Rekluse (the EXP) I ran an entire season without popping off the clutch cover - then ran a second season and did the same. The guy I sold the bike to has had it for two years and mentioned that he hasn't yet touched it. Four+ years without a problem is pretty darn amazing.

The major downside of the EFM is that you lose the clutch. Even the squishy Rekluse clutch was a nice option. Now the Rekluse clutch feels almost perfectly stock. I simply would not ride a bike without a clutch override. I didnt know that when I bought the EFM and sold it after about 6 months.