• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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which carb to use

disonny

disonny

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 73 360wr/rt. It has a small mikuni on it now, I think a 30mm but I'm not sure. That's what was on it when I bought it. I believe stock was a 28mm Amal. It has no real top end. It kind of falls off in the higher rpm range. I have a couple old bings laying around. They are 36mm. Would they be too big or should I got for something smaller?
 
see what the old DT 360 yammies had on stock and the TS 400 suzi's and pick one of those. should be close to right. smaller gives better low end response too big will die until its revving.
 
Not sure about the 360 but the piston port DT-1 250s came with 28mm Mikunis. I would guess 30-32 would be stock for a RT-1 360.
 
I pulled the bike out of storage tonight and tried a bing. I couldn't get it to start. I then tried a gurtner from my 76 360 but the bowl hits the center cases before it's all the way on the intake. So I put the mikuni back on. I did find a 36 stamped on the intake end of the carb so maybe it is a 36mm. It looks small tho. I put a 240 main in it, it had a 230. It didn't really make a difference. It still revs to a certain point and then falls off. I'm not sure if it's jetting or ignition. It has a femsa point ignition. I should probably take a plug reading and go from there. to be continued.
 
The 360RT has a low RPM range so you want to stick with a smaller carb. Low RPM means low fuel air velocity and big carbs will perform poorly. Stock Amal was a 32 but a 34 would probably work.

Anytime you are dealing with an old engine that may have not been run all the time or run to death, you can have issues. A gummed up carb will cause a lot of problems. Old carbs must be completely dismantled and dipped in carb cleaner for a few hours before rinsing, then blowing out every orifice and jet with compressed air. Especially the pilot jet and circuit due to the small size.

Dried out intake and base gaskets create air leaks that affect the engines vacuum. Crank seals and center case gasket can also leak. Leak down test will determine if there are problems.

Ignition timing is not as critical unless its way off. Having the correct points gap of .014 to .018 will also prevent a loss of RPM. The condition of the points is important.

A partially restricted exhaust or silencer can also cause a reduction of top end speed.
 
This motor was done by Stahls a few years ago. Everything was new including a sleeve. They set up the ignition also. Exhaust is good, with a fresh packed silencer. All gaskets were new, intake rubber was NOS. This engine has, since the day I started it for the first time taken longer to idle down when you rev it. Much longer than any of my other 2 stroke. Maybe it's from a heavy flywheel. Almost seems like a lean condition but I have ridden it quite a lot the last couple years and the plug looks a little on the dark side. We have rain for the next 3 days so no test rides for a while. I will check the point gap tomorrow night. Thanks for the input.
 
disonny, you said "This engine has, since the day I started it for the first time taken longer to idle down when you rev it."

That indicates a lean condition in the idle circuit. The air screw may be turned to far out, should be around 1-1/4 to 2 turns. If the air screw is set right try the following: When the bike is at an idle and you wick the throttle does the engine bog before revving up? If it bogs then the pilot jet may be plugged.
 
Crash, It doesn't seem to bog I'll check the air screw today. I think the air screw is behind the air box so it's a pain to check it. Thanks
 
If it takes a while to idle down, apart from the carb, check the inlet manifold isn't loose or leaking and the rubber is not perished or split. It can also be the oil seal on the right side behind the stator plate. Also check the cylinder head nuts and bolts are torqued down correctly. All of the above can come loose.
 
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