What's this stuff on my screen filter?? (TE310R)

Dropped the oil on my 310 today. It's the first change that I've done but I had the oil changed as part of a full service by a shop straight after I bought it. I asked the tech that serviced the bike if there was any debris in the screen filter and he said no. When I changed it today I found the attached. It's like a red enamel paint that I could pick off with a fingernail. There was no metal mixed with it and the paper filter was clean. Anyone got any ideas as to what's going on?

Maybe some kind of gasket sealing residue?

That's probably sealant not paint hermatite or something. Unless it is actually paint then is your valve cover painted red?

Yeah it's a red head. No metal with the paint so hoping it is some kind of sealant. The shop replaced the worm gear so could be related to that I suppose. Guess the proof will be in the next change

Just colour match the paint to the head, think it may be stripping the inside of it.

If that was me I would pull the cover off and confirm, not sure what damage paint can do but I wouldn't want it in my mota .

Is the valve cover not just powder coated or whatever on the outside? Woulndn't have thought the inside of the valve cover was red too. Can anyone that's had the head off a 310r confirm?

Cheers

I pulled some of that same material out of my 510 years ago at first. I believe it's leftover gasket sealant. Only happened the first few oil changes.

shit- I need to check the screen on my 310r. After the first few oil changes, I quit pulling the screen and just used the oil drain under the engine. The reason was is that on my year ('14) the oil breather vapor return is routed into the screen bolt- making it a serious hassle to drain/check the screen. Although I never saw anything noteworthy on it, but now I'm closing in on 5k miles, so I guess I better check it.

I do oil changes about every 4-500 miles. confession: I didn't even know there was a drain bolt (with a weak-ass magnet) on the bottom of the motor until oil change 3 or 4... did you use it?

btw, don't sweat that red stuff- I think it's paint. I had some too IIRC.

@Trenchcoat85

Mine is the same as yours mate. My advice would be to just pull that hose off before you undo the nipple bolt that retains the screen filter. I tried loosening the bolt with the hose loosely on and the spanner started rounding the bolt. Once the hose was off and the oil had drained, a box wrench got the bolt undone no probs. Had to fashion a long hook type tool out of wire to get the screen filter out. I did see that sump nut but left it in place as the manual didn't mention it all! Will be sure to use it from now on though, nice one.

Don't fret I had that in the past as wel,l it will go soon and no mechanicals to follow-all sweet

yeah, the drain bolt makes things easy (it uses an 8mm allen wrench)... but I'm wish the magnet wasn't such a weak-assed composite magnet; I wanna put a rare earth on it some day. Glad I could help.

My "hose-nippled-screen-bolt" was insanely tight (100 lbs/ft?) from the factory. I totally fvcked the hex head up, even while using a 12 point box wrench, trying to loosen it. I ended up using a torch, chisel and refrigerant spray to get it out- but I was scared it was gonna stay in there. The bolt metal was so soft I thought it was aluminum; I was totally blown away to find, by using a magnet, it was steel.

I bought a 6 point box wrench for it (14mm??) and a new nipple/bolt (obviously). The next few oil changes I just loosened the hose clamp (I forget what you English call 'em... "something" clip), removed the hose and took the nipple/bolt off. Putting it back together was a pain and I ended up putting the hose on first (IIRC) then tightening the bolt; later the hose clamp. Finding that drain plug was a relief (and it also irritated me that it wasn't mentioned)

I want to replace the nipple/bolt and screen with one from a TC, and reroute my breather return line into the head... so I can use the EE skid plate I've had on the shelf for more than a year now. But the damn bolt and TC screen is semi-expensive; I'll probably just end up brazing the stock nipple bolt solid.

Jubilee clip! No idea why they're called that though. I didn't find the change too much of a pain once you know to take the hose off. Think I can live with it. Something I have realised is i think I put the oil filter in the wrong way round! The damn hi flo filters have a recess which made me think it goes in rubber seal first. I ran it for about 5 mins tops so I'm hoping it's ok. Otherwise I might be finding more than sealant in my screen filter!

backwards filter: it's not the HiFlo... it's the exact same as the others. That recess is the pressure relief value- in case your filter clogs (the dirty oil is on the outside surface). And this is a fairly common mistake- but you're probably good running for only 5 mins. BTW, make sure the bellevue spring washer is installed too... it goes in first.

I imagine that "Jubilee" is a brand name, but maybe not; but, yeah "Jubilee clip" was the name I was looking for. The problem with people that speak 'merican english is that a "clip" is usually some kinda spring-loaded device; and a "clamp" is a device for pressure (though sometimes spring driven).

wait 'till you try the drain bolt- I doubt you'll be using the oil-return nipple/bolt thingy much.

Thanks for the reply trenchcoat. Yeah fingers crossed she'll be ok. Maybe it didn't shut the oil flow off completely. Guess time will tell! Ironic that the simplest bit of the change was the bit I messed up!

Does the Zip Ty oil line relocation kit work on the red heads?

As for that red paint, more than likely the shop mechanic who changed our oil did not even remove the drain bolt to remove the screen.

Yes the zipty kit works with the red heads. Had one on my 310 for over a year now. I clean the SS pre-filter with each oil/filter change. Pretty sure the WSM or Owners Man says to do so.

That zipty kit does look good but I really don't mind the oil change on this bike. I think I'll drop the oil about every 5 hours from the sump plug and then do the screen and paper filters every other change. That is, of course, if my motor still runs in a few weeks!

Was more of a hassle doing the screen filters on my 610. One engine case off to access one of them and then another on the opposite side. Right hassle

I very much doubt the owners manual says that (totally worthless), but I'm sure the WSM does... because it totally overlooks the drain plug with the magnet.

IMNSHO cleaning the magnet is important; cleaning the screen- less so. Still, I shouldn't let it go for 4000 miles (it's been 9 oil changes since I looked at it. out of 12 oil changes total <5000miles). Anyhooo... since you have the ZTR drain back system AND an after-market skid plate: better check your magnet for debris. Take a picture for us if it's never been done- I'm curious.

Yeah I have pulled the drain plug with each oil/filter change. So far nothing but oil on the magnet.

I think that's a reasonable plan. But I average 20mph so that would be every 100 miles (lotsa of single track here).

BTW, if it were me, I'd alternate the screen cleaning and the filter change; might allow you to catch something earlier. And you could still just do the drain plug every other time.

I do a filter change at every oil change- but it's right before 500 miles for me so you're being more aggressive. Here in the US, I can get a HiFlo 116 delivered to my home for under $4, so I always have one on the shelf. When I use one, I hit eBay up for the next one. And the zero-40 Mobil 1 I use is $24 for 5qts... so each oil change is under $10 (guessing €9, £8).