• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Whats the deal with the Husky fork seals?

ktm525_matt

Husqvarna
B Class
Whats the go? I done 2000km on my 09 te510 with no dramas and now the right side fork seal has blown every ride for the last 6-7 rides:thumbsdown:. I have read that this is a problem but have seen no fix. I could also understand how a design fault would affect both forks but not just one. This is getting really frustrating:banghead:. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have 1200 miles on my 09 te510, havent had any blown seals yet :excuseme:

you really fixed the seals and they were blown after the ride 6-7 times in a row? sounds like your not installing them right or something idk.
 
Did you check for nicks in lower fork tubes. Are you cleaning the seals out after your ride. Right amount of oil in each fork tube. bleed some air out before riding. Just some things you can look for.
 
Are you sure you are installing the seal "right side up"? Most fork seals have rather direction sensitive ridges on them and hold oil back in one direction better than the other. A friend of mine had a blown seal and took it to the dealer(a reputable one) to have the both seals replaced and one of them leaked immediately after the service. We both wondered if the seal had been put in upside down.:excuseme: The bike had to go right back and be properly fixed.
 
Also the washer above the seal is directional, it has a step in it and if installed upside down the seal will float around & leak. That bit was passed on by a local suspension tuner.

Later,
 
mine blew out quickly also....try the synergys man, there sweet. just remember to release the air frequently since they are so sealed
 
I do not think there are any systemic issues with fork seals on Huskies. Only on my first replacements after 2800Kms. Now up to 3800 kms and replacements are fine. After heavy rides in dust I often drop the wiper and shove a piece of plastic film up and down the seals (dust particles tend to coagulate under the seal causing them to weep).
If you have ridden hard it is good to let the pressure build up bleed out by undoing the bleeder screw. Also it is good to keep the bikes on a stand to keep them unweighted.
 
RH side indicates the fork is in a bind. This is of course all of the previous mentioned senerioes are addressed and correct.
First when you put the forks back on are they set at the same groove on top????
Best way is to set the LH fork leg to where you want it, groove 1,2 or3. Torque the pinch bolts. Then with the RH but don't go by the groove, get it close then put the axle in. Axle must slide thru with no effort just a simple very light finger tip pressure, watch to see the axle goes effortless into the LH leg. If it touches on top of the LH axle hole move the RH leg down slightly or go up on it just whatever it takes. When you get it torque the pinch bolts on that leg.
Install the wheel, tighten the axle nut making sure the axle grab bar does not touch the fork protecter, tighten the lh axle pinch bolts. Take bike outside to where you can ram it into a solid object ( wall,sidewall of truck tire, bumper hitch) slam it good make rear wheel come up this centers the RH fork leg on the axle tighten the pinch bolts and your done. Have seen interferance with the weld on grab bar to the lower axle bore if so just buffit off so no binding, also make sure axle bores are clean and not nerded up to cause binding on the axle.
Later George
 
Do what George said! That doesn't work, do what Hipsterdufus said and try a set of Synergy Seals. By far the best seals I've ever used, especially on troubled forks. They work. Plain and simple...
 
I am trying the All Balls seals and am happy with them. I am finding that the fork not only does not leak but pump up with air much less. ='s less bleeding of air while riding.
 
I had a fork seal go at 300 km's, that was replaced under warranty, 700 km's later both fork seals went, had those replaced and now at 1500 km's both fork seals have gone again!!! and this is on a bike that is 7 months old!! i've just about had enough of these forks :banghead: and i'm thinking about upgrading to a 2010 bike, i just hope the twin chamber Marzocchis are better than the 2009 forks, Hopefully the 2011 310's come with Kayaba forks.
 
I have about 5500 miles on the right fork seal with no signs of it giving up. The left one blew at about 5000 miles, but only because I crashed and damaged the fork slider on that side and had to ride fifty miles or so, before I could file and smooth the scratched spots on the slider, so that seal took a real beating.
 
I just blew my first fork seal at 5000 miles as well. The replacement parts cost me $80, 2 seals and 2 scrapers, so they better last another 5000.
 
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