Water temp switch setting

The fan on my '14 TE 310R rarely came on in years past. Now it never comes on. Removed temp switch. Set in shallow pan of boiling water. Measure no continuity between wire connector pins when in boil.
At what temp are these switches set to switch on fan? Fan works if I connect to battery. Fuse is good. Is my boil test temp high enough temp to flip the switch? About 210F at my elevation.

It should be on by then . Does that bike actually over heat or not ?

Yeah, your thermoswitch is probably shot (190°+ IIRC). or a wire is broken. or your fuse is blown. jumper 12v to the fan to see what's what (actually, just jumper the terminals of the thermoswitch- same thing when bikes running. the fan should come on)

I took my broken stock fan off 3 years ago- no real issues with the same bike. I ride very low speed single track stuff, I ride a lot.

1 caveat: check your coolant before every ride (oil sight too)

I use engine ice in my 310. Never had an overheating issue. Note" I am 250 pounds, live in a very hilly and hot environment in the summer.
If changing to one of the upmarket coolants it is best to flush your radiator.
I recommend a 50/50 mix of distilled water and white vinegar.
Dump the old fluid, replace with the mixture and run the engine for 10 minutes.
Dump that mix and repeat the process.
Then add new coolant.

No overheating issues, but I prefer to have a working fan to prevent.

My fan never came on after running Zip Ty's coolant. All seemed good until it didn't last year, and was between 12k passes hoping to get back to my van before bike died. I had a leaking head gasket, fluid starved clutch, boiling fuel, etc... Engine is rebuilt and running great and now running new v2 ZT coolant. Last time riding afgter rebuild fan never ran. I was told ZT got the fan working though I have not had it working so who knows what temp it starts at. With water and normal coolant it would run on most slow climbs. Have not been able to ride due to some health issues, but hard pressed to pull and replace the coolant sensor and find it still doesn't switch on in the end.

So I’m having similar issues. I checked my switch in a pot of boiling water and it shows about 357 ohms of resistance at boiling (4500 ft). Normally I’d assume it’s either open or close but I’m wondering if the computer uses variable resistance to know the engine temp and adjust accordingly. Does anyone here know? I checked my fan and it runs with a battery.

I did find out I am low on coolant so that could be why it’s not triggering the fan if there’s not enough flowing over the switch. Now I need to find the leak. I don’t see any clean spots or wet spots to indicate a leak. I did notice an oil like slick under the bike after it sits,but I assumed it was oil. Now I’m thinking it’s my engine ice. Now I just need to figure out where it’s coming from.

Either way if it’s an simple open/close switch it’s testing bad so it needs replacing. If it’s variable then it might be ok.

it's bad. the radiator has a thermoswitch (open/closed). what was the resistance cold?

the cylinder has thermocouple in the cylinder which should be 1500ohms when cold IIRC. plus all the coolant should've come out if you removed it.

your leak could be to the inside of the motor. look for milky frothy oil or an ultra-clean spark plug.

As far as that leak and nothing showing. In my case was a leaking head gasket. My radiator had been checked at every ride but last two rides I noted the loss. You won't see foaming or any contaminants, simply loss of coolant. Regarding the oil slick.. You should be able to ascertain whether oil, rad fluid or possibly even leaking clutch at the banjo.

Cool. Thanks. I thought it was bad. Cold it was open and hot it had some resistance but should’ve been completely closed I assumed.

My oil looks good. I haven’t checked my plug though. I need to go over things with a microscope and see what I can find. Thanks again!

My fan has never come on. 2008 te450. Bike run great tho.Engine ice.
Could i run a switch to fan and turn fan on manually?