You have a carb model? So did you just empty the honeycomb stuff inside the exhaust cans or what? And what jet settings did you use? I need details! What if any difference did you notice afterwards?
These are a couple of examples of the mods I am talking about: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?36731-so-i-rejeted-my-06-610-today http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?35232-Just-Jetted-My-610!! There are countless users who swear by "JD Jet kits" (try saying that in a hurry) and removing exhaust baffles or putting a "Leo Vince x3 slip on" on. They then claim that the bike "rips" and "wheelies all the first four gears". But I want to cut through the hyperbole and find what the actual mods are that are worth doing and which are the ones that people are just imagining make a difference. I want to empty the exhaust cans for weight saving alone, as each of them weigh about 3 kg. I just don't want to make it too loud, they also have rivets which need grinding off which is noisy work and reinstalling them will require a rivet gun of some kind. I figure I will use my mig welder to do a few spot welds instead, it won't look as neat but before I commit I want to know that it won't be too loud.
Without going into the engine you can only maximize the air going in and coming out. But that is often quite a bit. Same as the 630FI, open up the airbox, gut the cans, rejet, lower gearing. Cam.
I want to empty the baffles for weigh saving alone but I don't want to make the bike too loud. If you read the threads I have linked gains of 4 horsepower are reported from simply removing the backfire screen (metal gauze inside the intake boot), drilling the airbox and debaffling the exhaust cans. The exhaust cans are the biggest obstacle because the ends are riveted on and will need the rivets drilling and then spot welding back on. I have also to try a richer setting on the needle jet due to backfires on deceleration.
Uncorked 610 runs good. You wont lack for power. Wheelies in 1st 3 gears only. Lottsa clutch needed in 3rd....at least for me anyway. BTW, clutch is weak and does not like wheelies on the road. No cush drive. You've been warned!
I read that the knobbles on a knobbly absorb the shock of a wheelie which since I have the enduro setup on at the moment is what I am gonna stick to And my SM rear does have a cush hub. Also back on the topic, you haven't said what jetting you use. For instance what position is the needle clip in? What about the fuel screw? I have adjusted the fuel screw today and it made a sizeable improvement. It was idling very lean and almost stalling at low throttle which was dangerous when going around corners. Now it is so smooth all the way down to the idle, it will idle along by itself! And it pulls like mad all over the rev range, just from the idle screw adjustment. I can tell something has changed in the richer direction because the pops coming off the throttle are far more subdued. I am also tempted to change the needle clip although with such an improvement from idle screw adjustment I don't want to make it too rich since the idle screw seems to make a difference over the whole rev range. Thanks for replying. I see they are riveted on. What method did you use to seal them back up?
I have a JD red needle in the middle position I believe. It's been a long time. I also run a 45 pilot jet. LV slip on exhaust with Spark Arrestor.
Now I have a 2006 610 I realise what you guys were saying. This thing is a completely different bike to the 2001. Yes I know it's the same frame and engine but the character of the thing is so different. It's like a mini Ducati Hypermotard to me. It rips compared to the 2001 as well, so eager to rev and not at all plodding. I normally clutch it up only in 2nd and ride it out. You can get quite a long wheelie that way dipping in and out of the balance point on the throttle.
