• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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TXC 250 main bearing failure, engine noise

M

macwood

Husqvarna
B Class
Have got a 08 txc 250 which developed an engine noise, We pulled head and barrel off and they were good. looked down into the engine and could just see the side of the main bearings, noticed the rhs one's ball cage is broken and squashed up. This is were the noise is coming from for sure but I would think that this is very uncommon failure, it has done 90 hours. Any one can shed some light on this.

If anyone has got a 250 4 stroke 08 which develops an engine noise like a rattle all through rev range (less at idle ) more than likely it has had a main bearing failure due to very high revs (10k plus) and the bearing cages come apart and allow the balls move around unevenly spaced, the cage was chewed up and sitting in bottom of crank caverty but could have been worse if kept riding.

Check out the below posts for more info and pics
 

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No info but my 08 TXC250 has ~340 hrs or so with the same internal parts ... I've weakened after reading all the posts on-line and will be changing the rings in the near future...

Did you purchase the bike new?
 
Hi Ray-Ray
bought the bike with 25 hours & now has 90, The bore looked perfect still has the hone marks piston looks good too we will be replacing rings even still. The bike is well maintained ie oil changes, fully synthetic oil. Was told engine was bullet proof and now this?????. Engine easy to get head and barrel off but what about splitting cases.
ps is that the first set of replacement rings at 340 hrs??
 
Will know later in the week, but looking that way, mine is around 120 hours, my bike is in the shop, but I'll get the frame number and pm you, might be a bad batch or assembly issue perhaps.
 
Yep, all stock and original parts to date ... It runs great now, no noises, loss or power, or anything .. starts good 9 out of 10 times kicking it as I removed the battery about 3 weeks ago ... Seems like the compression is good from the feel of kicking it ... I try to keep the REVing at 10G and below and my bike has a lot of street time at 6G and below ...

At 90 hrs, my bike was just starting to feel good ... Too bad you are having issues unless something was wrong at the factory level ... Maybe cost will not be too high and you can get it running again soon ...

Splitting cases is one of the things I've never done before ...
 
Hi Ray
I split the cases after getting shop to pull flywheel which was tight as. Cases came apart
a treat with out using a puller and all the internals sat nicely in place (lift off the fly wheel side) i found the rhs main bearing cage had come apart and was a bit mangled but still in place where as not so for the inner section, it was gone but I found it broken up but sitting in the bottom of crankshaft caverty out of harms way. No one could give me a reason for this failure everything else is spot on.
I had a bit of a winner with the new bearings they are a standard size 6206 C3 (high speed) so I got some and went to put them in but noticed a step had been machined into the outer cage for the 2 retaining tabs that hold it in the engine casing. Tried to get ones with this step but no good it is a Huski OEM and $135 each thank you. Not happy as i thought the japs only got up to that caper and that's one reason I why went to Euro bikes. Talked to mate who owns a machine shop and he said that he can
machine the small step into the standard bearing. 2 OEM bearings $270, 2 modified 6206 C3 $24
Another shock was $140 for rings????? what do they cost in USA I'm in AUS
 
You make it sound easy enough ... So the mains just mount to the side plates of the engine?

Sounds good on that machining ... The OEMs went belly up for no good reason, right? Nothing great about their work apparently ... Did they have a country name on them?

Rings (only) about $49.00 per set here ... piston & ring set ~$240.... I'll be going with new rings later this month or 1st of the year ...

What was removing the timing chain like? I'll be replacing it also with the rings ...

Speaking of bearings, I replaced a rear wheel bearing yesterday ... the large one on the brake side ... It was stamped with France, I brought some from the usa with me over here and they are stamped with china ... I purchased a standard bearing here via matching and it was stamped with japan ... I'm going with the japan model and will take good care of it and test the lasting ability of it ...

No pics?
 
Pull off the grease seal from one side and pack in some wheel bearing grease in it. You will be surprised in the amount of grease that's in there. Don"t forget to put back the seal.
 
I pulled the seals off both sides of the japan made wheel bearing ... it had a small amount of grease on one side and no grease on the other side ...
 
Hi Ray
this engine is really good to work on, plenty of room above head to get head & barrel off, all nuts and bolts easy to get to,I left carb hanging in place. Actually now looking at this engine and how well designed it is and very user friendly to work on I am going to do a list of all the clever and well designed features of the engine and I will include pics so anyone can see. Have to learn how to add pics yet, havent time right now but here is a few of what i am talkink about, kick back protection for starter motor, retaining tabs to hold bearings in casings, simple removable spacer for sliding rockers sideways to change valve shims, 1 cover with o ring seal to get access to clutch, a 1 piece retaining plate that holds all the starter gears in place (great when you split cases) simple cam timing, rubber moulded tappet cover gasket etc etc .

Great price on rings will be looking into that when time comes.
The OEM bearing had on them France SNR AB41254 and my replacement ones are FAG 6206 2RSR C3 with the little machining job and pull out the inside seal.

yes the mains are held in the casings by 2 tabs each and a allen headed bolt (pics to come )

As for the cam chain it is one piece no joiner and I havent put it back in yet but it came out a treat. Take flywheel off with special puller (a must ) behind it is the drive sprocket held in place by a spring but you can pull it off by hand. Check keyway as mine looks to have signs of wear maybe it should be ment to be tight on shaft will be looking into that. Up top take water pump off (no gasket behind but a simple o ring to seal so you leave it in and reuse if inclined) unbolt the cam sprocket whilst leaving cams still bolted in place, remove chain tensioner so as to get some slack in chain then feed chain off side of sprocket and allow to drop thru to bottom and out. Put new one on in reverse order lining up timing mark which I havent done yet, check before removing old one to see, at TDC. Not sure on tensioner but last thing will be to put it in, probably has screw up in it to wind in to retract and release when in place. Might pay to check it someone else has a full description with pics.
 
ray_ray, ive had the exact same problem with my 08 txc 250, the noise would come n go and then all of a sudden it got really loud, about 2 miles later the bearing fell apart, ur asking y didnt i stop? i was battling for top overall amauter at the somerset gncc so yea, my bike had about 140 hrs on it when this happened, it was super easy to put new mains in, i lucked out and my crank was fine so i reused it, hope your rebuild goes well

shame to hear about your problems but kinda glad i wasnt the only one with freakish problems, i had other fluke problems but thats for another thread
 
Too bad the bearings had to give out in the race :( ... what did you replace them with and do you still race the bike?

Good to hear the cases split easily ... Maybe I'll open mine up next year and replace the mains as a precautionary measure ...
 
My engines getting split today & I'll find out where the rattle was coming from, it was pretty decent noise though, so figuring it won't be cheap.
 
What's the time on UR engine? Break out the camera if you have it and maybe it will just be an issue of a toasted bearing and no new parts will be required ...
 
ray_ray;136593 said:
What's the time on UR engine? Break out the camera if you have it and maybe it will just be an issue of a toasted bearing and no new parts will be required ...
Click to expand...

Two new bearings + gasket kit & unlike Oz the OEM prices are competitive :), I'll do piston & rings as it's apart.

I rode it really gently home once the noise got loud & sounds like it never broke anything else :), very relieved.

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No hour meter on the bike ~150 hours, but 2nd hand & original was sponsored rider so it's done a few national enduro's in NZ & Cross Countries, though I'm pretty easy on it ( read slow ).
 
wow ....Those bearings are just sitting, swimming in oil it appears ... How can they go bad unless low quality to begin with ...

I'm easy on mine about 3/4 the time ... being I keep it under 7Gs ... Those new bearing stamped with 'france' also?

You gonna do the work yourself? :)
 
Hi Ray I havent had a chance to show the pics of my main bearings but they are exactly the same as our NZ rider, balls show no sign of damage or wear.
But I think I am onto the reason why it happens, I was telling a mate who used to race road bikes in the 70's and they had the same problems when they tricked up their engines to rev out over 10000 rpm. The bearing cages cant handle it because a sort of high frequency load/shudder goes thru them only at the very high revs, this causes the cage holding the balls (which is fairly weak ) to come apart and break up and lets the balls move around out of place and results in loudish engine noise ( you wont miss it ) at all engine speeds, not so loud at idle. My advise dont ride it home get the ute because the cage is broken up and you dont want all those metal pieces circulating in there.
He said that it can also cause the outer cage to turn in the housing, maybe thats why huski run those 2 retaining plates holding outer cage. My son races the 250 so it does see some high revs but not on the limiter, I dont think 450 and 510 would have this problem. He said they could get bearings that had a very strong near solid cage and problem solved. I bet we will see a lot of this in 250's, lucky the engine is so easy to work on.
I am going to look into some how having a rev limiter come in at a lower rev.
 
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