• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tuning this bad boy...aka SMR511 w/ PCV+AT

ascribner

ascribner

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I am jacking with my setup now.

Minor mods:
K&N air filter (oval) with OEM air box removed
FMF Megabomb header
FMF Q4 exhaust (no spark arrestor)

93 miles on the odometer.

I am trying to get this bike tuned and idling properly. The first issue is that is does not want to idle well at all.

According the the PCV, the idle RPM is around 2200. That seems rather high IMO.

So the first question is, what would you suggest to get this bike to idle properly?

I will post a video here shortly.
 
Try playing with the idle/air bypass screw as mentioned in the TPS reset thread.

In regards to the mapping (my opinion)... Take it to a dyno and get a proper tune, THEN put on the AT.

If you decide not to, ride it with only the AT doing adjustments for a month and then take a screenshot of the AT adjustments table, I'm curious to see how well the AT works by itself.
 
OK, figured out the first problem. The Trim target default target AFR was set to 0, so after the Autotune kicked on after 60 seconds, it attempted to adjust for a 0 AFR -- obvious there.

I calibrated the throttle, but still shows 30% throttle at idle. Either I hooked up the two pick up wires reverse or something else is happening. I am figuring a call to Dynojet tech support is in order to work through this. It is actually at almost 3k idle.

At what RPM do most 511's idle?

Video link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2htpqpk66cmj8fe/2013-06-06 21.35.23.mp4
 
Caiman said:
Try playing with the idle/air bypass screw as mentioned in the TPS reset thread.

In regards to the mapping (my opinion)... Take it to a dyno and get a proper tune, THEN put on the AT.

If you decide not to, ride it with only the AT doing adjustments for a month and then take a screenshot of the AT adjustments table, I'm curious to see how well the AT works by itself.
Click to expand...


I bought the autotune so I don't have to use the dyno, but maybe I will see if I can find a place for a economical dyno time.

I will definitely post some screen shots of the AT in action.
 
From the WSM;

Idle adjustment (TE - TXC - SMR)
Adjust the carburettor with warm engine and with the throttle control in closed
position. Proceed as follows:
- Turn adjuster screw (1) with a screwdriver until reaching an idle speed of
1,850 - 1,950 rpm, to be detected by the special diagnosis tester.
Click to expand...

hehe, carburettor...
 
ascribner said:
I bought the autotune so I don't have to use the dyno, but maybe I will see if I can find a place for a economical dyno time.

I will definitely post some screen shots of the AT in action.
Click to expand...

No worries, I'm just interested to see if running the AT alone does what I think it will or not, but don't have the $$ to do it myself :)
 
Caiman said:
No worries, I'm just interested to see if running the AT alone does what I think it will or not, but don't have the $$ to do it myself :)
Click to expand...


I hope it does. If so, I will pull it off once this PCV is set, then buy a PCV for my 2011 Daytona 675 and AT it too. I modded that bike and have a rough map uploaded with TuneEcu, but I know it could be better.
 
TBH I don't think the AT is the magic bullet people think it is, but I don't have the real world data to prove or disprove my opinion/theories :) They may have improved it over the psat few years but IMO nothing beats a proper dyno tune to get a proper base line.

Hence why I would love to see whan adjustments the AT alone (no human fiddling) after a month or two of typical riding. Be it track, road, trail etc.
 
Caiman said:
TBH I don't think the AT is the magic bullet people think it is, but I don't have the real world data to prove or disprove my opinion/theories :) They may have improved it over the psat few years but IMO nothing beats a proper dyno tune to get a proper base line.

Hence why I would love to see whan adjustments the AT alone (no human fiddling) after a month or two of typical riding. Be it track, road, trail etc.
Click to expand...


You cannot just let it run for a month and think it is going to work properly. You ride for a bit, accept the trim values. Then start it for another session.
 
That's what I meant, that's the AT doing it's thing. By human intervention I mean manually adjusting table values left blank by the AT.
 
Tinken said:
2012 Husqvarna ZipTy Full Factory Race Map
Click to expand...


I am going to load this map just as soon as I am done working today!

<offTopic>
Your breather box looks super nice man. I bought a standard carbon fiber oval catch can, but I may have to buy that. You have any pics of it mounted on the bike yet?
Also, how difficult is it to mod the valve cover for the breather mod? I really really, did I mention really, do not feel like taking anything apart on a running bike at this point. Too bad you are not local and could not it out quick for me.
</offTopic>
 
The breather mod is as easy changing a spark plug. You take the valve cover off, use the drill bit provided by us and make a prexisting hole larger. Your fab projects make this mod look like something you would do in your sleep. Haha
 
Tinken said:
The breather mod is as easy changing a spark plug. You take the valve cover off, use the drill bit provided by us and make a prexisting hole larger. Your fab projects make this mod look like something you would do in your sleep. Haha
Click to expand...


I guess I need to look at the manual. I have no experience taking apart a 4T motorcycle engine. Of course, I have several full rebuilds on car engines, so it is probably a walk in the park.
 
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