Mine is about 1/2" chain slack after adjusting by lining up the axle/countershaft. But, don't go by that. Do the deed described above. Your chain may be newer and tighter or older and looser than mine.
Indeed, the exact slack when on the side stand (or center stand for that matter) will differ between bikes depending on shock settings and even between ABS and non-ABS or between Terra and Strada due to the different wheel sizes.
Different sprockets will make no difference if you use my method. The only thing that will change is the amount that you will have to adjust the axle positioners.
I aligned the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle using the tie-down method. There was 20mm of chain movement at the front chain guard bolt, which is OK. Back on the side stand, with lifting and gentle lowering, the unladen bike settled with the rear shock topped out. Otherwise I could have propped something under the bike to make sure. The chain slack was 60mm at the front chain guard bolt. Now I have my number. I don't need to tie the bike down again, just check using the method in the manual, for 60mm instead of 45mm, ensuring the suspension is topped out, and the chain's tight spot (if it has one) is at the place I'm checking. The Terra and Strada have the same frame, swingarm, linkages and shock. If the suspension is topped out, the geometry is the same. The rear wheel diameter doesn't matter, nor the preload setting. You may need to align the swingarm on your bike to adjust the chain if you change sprocket sizes. I think the difference would be miniscule, and 60mm is close enough. blacki
Thanks blacki but I've inadvertently had that much chain slack with the old chain as it stretched regularly and the chain was hitting the swingarm or some other interefering part when on bumpy trails. It even hits with a little less slack than that, on my bike anyway.
Well, 60mm is how much slack there is if you allow 20mm with the swingarm aligned. That 20mm felt tight, I wouldn't have less. Maybe the chain hitting something off-road is why Husky set the spec at 45mm. That's definitely too tight. That might be a reason to replace the chain when it first starts to stretch. My Daytona's chain has no tight spot at 45000km, with a Scottoiler on all that time. I was originally going to replace it at 40000km, before any O-rings failed, but I'll leave it on at least until there's a tight spot. That's an RK though, not DID, and I ride the Triumph only on sealed roads. If I get 25000km on the Strada's chain I'll be happy. Ordering a Cameleon oiler next week. blacki
If you get 25k on that piece of crap it'd be a record! I'll have a close look & try to see what's going on with that clanking.
Check the bolts that hold the foot peg on. Early on High 5 found one of his protruding enough to hit the chain. I found the same thing after reading about High 5's experience and my chain was hitting a bolt there too. But, I didn't have any rattling or clanking.
Correct, the OEM Chain is a piece of junk. I have seen TR650s here with well cared for chains that are showing signs of tight spots and too much lateral play at only 4000 km. The earliest total failure I have witnessed is at 6700 km when the chain just let go, fortunately with no damage to the bike or rider. I junked my OEM Chain at 2000km before I experienced any problems and went for a top quality Renthall X-Ring, along with new 15/49 sprockets. So far the new chain has covered a further 4600 km and has not needed to be adjusted yet - it looks like it will outlast the bike. Regular quality lubrication and correct adjustment is the key, and of course good quality parts in the first place. Unfortunately with the OEM chain we did not get that.
20k km on the original chain with only a few adjustments required so far and no excessive maintenance. I wouldn't be surprised if i get 25k out of it.
My OEM chain looks like crap after 9500km, the links are all crooked. I use chain lube every 300km or after each rain ride but that junk OEM chain still manages to rust and wear like crazy. I'm going to install a RK XW chain when the next service is due.
At 17,500klm my chain was on the verge of letting go. On it's last ride of about 300k I had to adjust it 3 times before it started groaning & carrying on. I had to limp home with it. Generally I'm pretty good with my chain maintenance, regularly completely degreasing/cleaning & re-oiling. I replaced with a DID VX2 Gold & Esjot 16/49
John I used this combination at 12,000klm, Im now approaching 40 and these components still look and work like new.
Beautiful PaulC, I purchased the same supersprox sprocket you are showing, BTW, like your red farkles, I'll post some photos after my install
Yep it is a piece of junk, you are lucky to have got this far, must be the good maintenance program. I am very pleased with my Renthall Chain and Supersprox set up, works well and looks good. Note plenty of slack in the chain and in over 4600 km I have never had to adjust it.
I found that my chain was very loud after only about 4k miles. I put a DID x-ring chain on and the bike feels so much better. It's definitely quieter, and feels more..."free", thought that might be my imagination. In any event, well worth the $90 or so.
I have been checking my chain as per the workshop manual and setting the chain tension to the Husky specs. Until I read through this thread and checked my bike on the weekend I did not realize how tight the chain gets during suspension travel - Question, when the chain tension is set with the sprockets and swing arm pivot point all aligned (1/2 inch play), on releasing the swing arm back to normal height on the side stand the lower forward portion of the chain touches the frame just behind the foot peg. Anyone else experienced this?
yes, same here. Actually the chain touches the bracket of the Ricochet bash plate on mine which clamps around the frame tube. Doesn't look like that is happening (much) during riding though since the bracket is not damaged.
