I just had the 600 mile service done yesterday, I figure that while it is under warranty I will have them do the work on it. The gal from the shop called to inform me that Husqavarna has "updates" available. She stressed they are not recalls, but only parts that Husqavarna would like to update. One item is the clutch push rod, the other are the rear sprocket bolts. She told me it is a free update to all TE630 owners. Not sure if anyone else was aware of this, but thought I would post to give anyone with 2011 TE630 a heads up. Not sure if applies to prior models either.
0033, on the phone all she said was the rear sprocket bolts are being replaced as well as the push rod for the clutch. She didn't go into anymore detail than that.
Mine is getting those same items replaced. Not sure if they consider it warranty or not, but there is no cost to me.
My dealer did the clutch for me some time ago. And I continually check the sprocket bolts, but they´ve got a line of safety paint on them and are ok. I took the bike in when the clutch started making weird noises.
I have all that stuff replaced already. The parts are free and installation is simple. The replacement clutch pushrod is shaped slightly differently, possibly to allow more oil flow around it and keep it from binding inside the engine. The sprocket bolts are just the nuts, not the whole nut & bolt setup. The OEM nuts are not nylocks, the replacements are.
Are all the clutch pushrods considered faulty in the 630's? I got my bike in May of 2010 and never had any issues other than the sprocket coming loose. I took care of that myself and after 3,000 miles there have been no other problems.
Here is a quote i got from my local Husky Dealer. Truly good guys to deal with....... Yes, it's true, but only early 2011 bikes, yours and Connies are later builds. The sprocket bolts is a critical update in my opinion, sprockets are falling off! I most likely did both your 630's, 'just because', but, if you run out to the garage and check a couple things for me, you can set your mind at ease. What size wrench fits on the nuts, and what size allen fits in the flat head bolts? The nuts are the problem. The clutch push rod is a performance issue, when pulling away from a stop, does the clutch engage smoothly, or is it grabby? You can check the rod easy enough, remove the front sprocket cover, remove the three bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder and carefully remove the slave cyl. and pull the rod out a little bit. Is the end round or a hex shape, if its a hex, it's the updated part. Go check.
The bulletins pertain to both SMS and TE 630's. Some vin#'s need both updates, others only one. Your local dealer will have the complete visting of affected vin#'S. or just shoot me your model and vin # and I'll check for you. Paul@Tri-CountyPowersports.com
Agreed but unless you want a little oil mess don't remove the clutch push rod if bike is leaning on the sidestand. Prop it upright or better yet have someone hold the bike for you titling it slightly to the right. Only takes 5 seconds, just pull out old pushrod and insert the new one. _
My dealer (Dan at MotoX) is checking the VINs and will send me a pushrod if I need one. He's also getting me a new braided oil line that runs from the filter cavity up to the head. Bunches of them have the same internal leak.
Anybody know if the clutch line needs to be refilled and bled of air if you remove the slave cylinder? Or...does it just go back on?
Clutch slave just bolts back on but make sure you don't operate the clutch lever while you have it off. Also see my post above, lean the bike to the right some when you remove it otherwise you'll have an small mess of engine oil .
re: the oil line from filter cavity to head, having an internal leak. This caught my eye, because my braided line has a brown discoloration that looks like the plastic coating over the line was burned...but seeing this mention of an internal leak has me wondering if that's what I'm seeing. I see a lot of posts mentioning having to break the chain to swap countershaft sprockets - and I suspected the clutch slave could just be loosened/removed briefly to do the swap. I've had a number of KTM RFS clutch slaves off, and wondered to myself why people were breaking the chain instead of doing it the easy way.
Yup. I now know how to pull the sprocket the easy way. The clutch slave is like a brake caliper. Just don't pull the lever and you can unbolt it and move it around. I'd rather not break a chain if not necessary. Every time you remove and replace that master link clip, you increase the chance of failure.
I have no problem with clip type master links... but when I replace oem chains I have a favored replacement (quality vs. $$).... The RK XSO x-ring chain. It comes with non-clip type master link - I use my MotionPro tool to peen it on, so it's there for the duration.
i got the vin list today for bikes needing the updated clutch push rod.looks like most te and sms 630 should have this done.dan
